Engine Expert Advise
#1
Engine Expert Advise
I bought a car that had a turbo on it. . . I am changing it back to stock. The car is complete. It runs and drives but has problems. It idles and stalls. It will not rev above 6000.
The codes are
P0037 Rear HO2S heater control circuit low
P0171 System too lean
P0301 Front rotor misfire detected
P2004 ATC Valve open
I think the secondary fuel rail might not be seated correctly. I am not seeing any fuel.
Any help would be appreciated
The codes are
P0037 Rear HO2S heater control circuit low
P0171 System too lean
P0301 Front rotor misfire detected
P2004 ATC Valve open
I think the secondary fuel rail might not be seated correctly. I am not seeing any fuel.
Any help would be appreciated
#2
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more information is needed
such as what turbo kit and what management was used?
if this vehicle was flashed by a cobb or hymee the ecu may have the incorrect maps for the non turbo uploaded.
looks like it was a greedy kit hence the atc valve open perhaps the blocking plate wasnt removed during disassembly and may be the main cause of your problem
such as what turbo kit and what management was used?
if this vehicle was flashed by a cobb or hymee the ecu may have the incorrect maps for the non turbo uploaded.
looks like it was a greedy kit hence the atc valve open perhaps the blocking plate wasnt removed during disassembly and may be the main cause of your problem
#3
You are correct with this diagnosis. The motor to ATC was off the car and there was a plate over it. I removed the plate and replaced it with the stock atc motor. I can't move the gear by hand. I pulled the gear but could not see why it would not move. How would I remove the blocking plate? (The ECU is stock from another car.)
Thanks for your response.
Thanks for your response.
#5
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basically remove the upper manifold (the black hard plastic part of the manifold, underneeth you will see 4 ports, 2 will obvisouly be blocked by a silver plate, remove this plate and reinstall.
while you have that open you should check if all vacuum valves are working correctly.
I'm sure you can find the DIY thread somewhere using the seach
a picture is here http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/kl...n/DSCF4691.JPG the 2 ports in the middle are the ones usually blocked
however I could be completely wrong and it may be another problem but I think it was missed during the uninstall
while you have that open you should check if all vacuum valves are working correctly.
I'm sure you can find the DIY thread somewhere using the seach
a picture is here http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/kl...n/DSCF4691.JPG the 2 ports in the middle are the ones usually blocked
however I could be completely wrong and it may be another problem but I think it was missed during the uninstall
#6
Thats for your response. . ..
I have had the black intake off the car . . . there is not a plate there. I tried moving the ATC by hand (The small white gear) . I could not get it to budge. Is this normal? Is there a way to service the ATC valve?
I have had the black intake off the car . . . there is not a plate there. I tried moving the ATC by hand (The small white gear) . I could not get it to budge. Is this normal? Is there a way to service the ATC valve?
#7
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
I think you mean the APV (Aux Port Valve), not ATC.
And yes, once the APV motor is removed, you should be able to spin that white gear.
Only way to service the valves (if they are stuck) is to remove the lower intake manifold.
Spraying a cleaner down the runners probably won't help because the fluid will just collect at the bottom of the valve (inside of it) and you really need to clean the outside of it.
I believe he was referring to the SSV valve that you see down the secondary passage.
This valve is closed when the car is off (or its supposed to be closed).
And yes, once the APV motor is removed, you should be able to spin that white gear.
Only way to service the valves (if they are stuck) is to remove the lower intake manifold.
Spraying a cleaner down the runners probably won't help because the fluid will just collect at the bottom of the valve (inside of it) and you really need to clean the outside of it.
This valve is closed when the car is off (or its supposed to be closed).
Last edited by Jon316G; 11-02-2009 at 05:45 PM.
#8
You are correct it is APV. What does this valve look like? I am assuming it is open. Would I move it clockwise or counter clockwise to close it? Are there Turbo applications that would lock it open from the inside if the intake manifold? Is there any way to clean this without pulling the motor?
Your response is appreciate.
Your response is appreciate.
#9
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
To better show where the valve is and how it operates when you turn that white gear, it'll be easier to show you a video I made for troubleshooting intake valves:
http://www.vimeo.com/5353829
As you can tell from the video, the APV valves/barrels stick out and are actually inserted into the engine.
This is why you need to remove the intake manifold to reach the APV valves.
One member here has reported success with removing the valves without pulling the engine, but it appeared to be a big PITA.
Especially since the APV valves are attached by little tiny bolts that snap VERY easily (ask me how I know).
I would recommend just pulling the motor if you plan on removing the lower intake manifold.
I've never messed with turbo/FI applications to know for sure if they rig the valves to stay open.
Installing a normal turbo kit doesn't include doing this, but someone might have done it experimenting.
http://www.vimeo.com/5353829
As you can tell from the video, the APV valves/barrels stick out and are actually inserted into the engine.
This is why you need to remove the intake manifold to reach the APV valves.
One member here has reported success with removing the valves without pulling the engine, but it appeared to be a big PITA.
Especially since the APV valves are attached by little tiny bolts that snap VERY easily (ask me how I know).
I would recommend just pulling the motor if you plan on removing the lower intake manifold.
I've never messed with turbo/FI applications to know for sure if they rig the valves to stay open.
Installing a normal turbo kit doesn't include doing this, but someone might have done it experimenting.
Last edited by Jon316G; 11-02-2009 at 09:19 PM.
#10
That site is awesome . . . . thanks. The APV motor. . . when you replace it is there a index or mark to turn the motor to so it opens and closes the valves ok?
There are 3 theorys as to why the valve is not working. 1) Carbon build up and lack of use. This system was disable completely there was a cover where the motor was. If I shoot WD40 down the intake and manually work the gear to see if I can free it up. 2) There is something phyically blocking it. Go down the intake with a magnet or suction 3) The tooner mechanically disabled it.
I am assume 1) because the gear won't move at all . . . like it is stuck. If it was mechanical there would be some play. Most turbo kits don't require an engine pull.
There are 3 theorys as to why the valve is not working. 1) Carbon build up and lack of use. This system was disable completely there was a cover where the motor was. If I shoot WD40 down the intake and manually work the gear to see if I can free it up. 2) There is something phyically blocking it. Go down the intake with a magnet or suction 3) The tooner mechanically disabled it.
I am assume 1) because the gear won't move at all . . . like it is stuck. If it was mechanical there would be some play. Most turbo kits don't require an engine pull.
#12
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Its worth a shot.
Maybe try to clean the exposed valves/barrels the best you can.
One member here has removed the APV by sliding the intake manifold out.
Its a real PITA especially since each valve is held on by a tiny 8mm bolt with skinny threads that can snap easily.
Then you'll end up special ordering the bolt from McMaster-Carr because its a unique shoulder bolt size...
Maybe try to clean the exposed valves/barrels the best you can.
One member here has removed the APV by sliding the intake manifold out.
Its a real PITA especially since each valve is held on by a tiny 8mm bolt with skinny threads that can snap easily.
Then you'll end up special ordering the bolt from McMaster-Carr because its a unique shoulder bolt size...
#13
Dropping the Cratle
Can you drop the cratle with just a cherry picker? Do you have any tips for doing this.
Its worth a shot.
Maybe try to clean the exposed valves/barrels the best you can.
One member here has removed the APV by sliding the intake manifold out.
Its a real PITA especially since each valve is held on by a tiny 8mm bolt with skinny threads that can snap easily.
Then you'll end up special ordering the bolt from McMaster-Carr because its a unique shoulder bolt size...
Maybe try to clean the exposed valves/barrels the best you can.
One member here has removed the APV by sliding the intake manifold out.
Its a real PITA especially since each valve is held on by a tiny 8mm bolt with skinny threads that can snap easily.
Then you'll end up special ordering the bolt from McMaster-Carr because its a unique shoulder bolt size...
#14
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Here is a very detailed thread on how to remove the engine:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/diy-rx-8-engine-removal-how-pics-178937/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/diy-rx-8-engine-removal-how-pics-178937/
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