TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Just for ***** & giggles, you want to chance blowing your engine swapping wiring without confirming that you might be doing something fubar ???


wtf ....

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

After so many years of FAILURES,Why would anyone buys ra's bullshit seal ? I really dont get it.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Because there wasn't clear enough data on the 7 club to show how terribad they are.

I am 100% going with OEM FD seals and new housings on my next build...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

You gotta SEARCH!

i will use ceramic seals on my next build (again)

lordagrabah

iTrader: (1)

I thought there was an improvement from the original RA seals. 8k on mine so far and runs great. SSV seems a little touchy though but that might have something to do with the streetport. Anyway, shadycrew31, wouldn't the seals show damage to both housings and not just the front?

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Their a small operation, quality control is not always going to be on point.

Its been well documented on the 7 club that occasionally people run into issues but not right off the bat.

All you need is one seal to be slightly off and it will ruin the whole housing.

Mazurfer

Certainly hope your response was not directed at me, because I'm usually a pretty helpful guy. If it was, you can bet I won't even make an attempt in the future. The diagram you found is merely the bigger version of what I put in my post. I cut it down only the part you were interested in.

Rotary_Redliner

That was directed towards you. If your intent was to actually help me then I apologize. What I needed was the full diagram so i can differentiate the plugs front to rear.

This forum is so full of sarcastic responses and *** holes that it may have made me take your response the wrong way.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

So, have you done anything?

Yaboya

Mine has been diagnosed with ignition coil A error. Which one is A? and for that matter B, C & D?
Anyone?
Tom

Rotary_Redliner

I HAVE NOT GOTTEN A COMPRESSION TEST YET-----disclaimer, alright everyone ?

Would my full TurboXS exhaust with race pipe have anything to do with the misfire ?

I was doing some reflecting about my old setup (with the original engine), and now that I think back, that engine was also misfiring when I was doing the tuning with MazdaManiac. I guess you can say that I have been recently educated between the 'marble in a can sound' and what engine misfiring sounds like.

When I installed the turbo kit back then, I put everything on all at once--- turbo kit, BHR coils, turboxs exhaust w/ racepipe.... and sure enough, it was misfiring back then also.

I would also like to put out there that every couple months or so the 'crankshaft position sensor A' code would come on... and I would delete it and would not come back on for months.

Just wanted to ellaborate more before I am ABLE TO GET A COMPRESSION TEST.

Can any of this lead to a possible misfire ?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, the only way an exhaust attribute will cause misfires is if it's restricted too severely, leading to a limited amount of oxygen in the housing due to having trouble getting rid of exhaust gasses.


If you keep getting a code for the ESS, how about replacing that? That can easily cause your problem.

Rotary_Redliner

hmm... I can make it to 9k redline with no misfires at 75% throttle, but not at WOT throttle--- what does that tell you ?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Nothing.

Junirol

iTrader: (24)

hmm what spark plugs you using? I was having similar issues with different spark plug setups (colder range). What worked for me was using stock plugs gapped abit closer, I think .030" not sure but it stopped my misfiring.

Rotary_Redliner

I have the bureq9 plugs in all 4 spots. They are the colder plugs that everyone seems to be running? (sorry can't remember the exact number right now)

Edit: just reviewed the turbo owners thread again.... Alot of people running stock plugs? I think I'm going to throw them in and see how it feels.

Junirol

iTrader: (24)

Yea get your stock ones back on, gap it, though should only gap when new, very thin metal and supposedly ungappable. Worked well for me and car pulls hard under boost all the way up to 9k (my redline).

Rotary_Redliner

Alright, wanted to get some input from the FI folks----finally received the stock plugs in the mail.

Is it okay to run stock plugs all around ? or just use the stock trailing ?

Plan was to just throw in the trailing plugs, but if it's okay to run the stock plugs also it would save time and hassle to just throw them in at the same time.

FI sticky thread has people running many combinations of this setup...

Kane

iTrader: (1)

You can run all stock, especially during tuning since we won't be going into boost until the very end.

Once you start boosting, I go FD leading and stock trailing.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I have run the FD leading and stock trailing combo and then at the advice of Steve Kan, I installed stock trailings in the leading an trailing locations and that combo works great too. Both combinations work just fine.

We installed the different plug combinations in an extra housing we had and it seems that Steve was right in that with the FD plugs there is a chance of damaging in the housings if you over tighten them so be careful.

Rotary_Redliner

Okay I installed the stock plugs and it pulls a whole lot better, old plugs were very black--- pulls past 6000rpm but still has some light misfiring at the top. We will keep working on the fuel maps.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

*facepalm*

Rotary_Redliner

FINALLY have resolution!!! Like Junirol said, had to gap the stock plugs closer to .30" and it pulls cleanly all the way to redline. So happy right now... it's been a long journey.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Good to hear, I'm not sure why you had to change the gap on stock plugs and I'm not sure who told you to run BUR9's in the trailing and leading but whatever.

Rotary_Redliner

I think I had switched to them after reading the rotary insider turbo article a while back... and also some were running that setup on the turbo owners sticky thread.