E brake light coming on and off on it's own
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E brake light coming on and off on it's own
My e brake light has been coming on and off by itself even if the e brake is off. Anyone know what part could be getting stuck? The brake itself isn't getting stuck just the light. It will pop on and off as I'm driving, any helP would be great Ty.
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check your owner's manual for possible explanation.
did you rule out those possibilities yet?
did you rule out those possibilities yet?
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A) The RX-8 is a unique car, but it isn't THAT unique.
B) That's your brake warning light, referring to the entire brake system, not the "e-brake light". It means "stop driving till you figure out what's wrong!". Usually it just means that your e-brake is up. Sometimes, it means something else is wrong with your brakes
In this case, it is likely that your brake pads are worn thin. Check them out and replace them.
B) That's your brake warning light, referring to the entire brake system, not the "e-brake light". It means "stop driving till you figure out what's wrong!". Usually it just means that your e-brake is up. Sometimes, it means something else is wrong with your brakes
In this case, it is likely that your brake pads are worn thin. Check them out and replace them.
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Thanks for your responses guys, this forum has been most helpful in the past for me and continues to be and I appreciate it very much. The last time I had my car in the shop they told me my pads were low but would last me until the end of summer roughly, well summer is over and I'm coming to the conclusion this light must be an indicator for the worn out brake pads. I'm not getting any grinding sounds yet, so is it safe to drive with this light on? Sorry for the noob question but in the manual zoom44 posted for me (thank you) it strongly suggests not to drive it at all and to pull over and have it towed to a shop. Is this just mazda covering their *** or can I drive it safely until sometime next week when I have it serviced? Obviously I don't want to get into an accident but I've driven a different car in the past until the brakes were grinding and noticibly not working as good as normal for over a week until I had them replaced. Any immediate danger here from me drivng it like this with the light comming on and off? Just to add, after I'm driving for a while the light will go off and stay off. Thanks for all your help guys, you are all awesome!
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I haven't checked that yet. I guess if it's low just a top off might correct it? Unless the padds being low is causing it to come on but I would think if it was the pads it come on and stay on. Any specific type to put in the 8?
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A) You have a brake fluid leak, and would shortly be out of fluid (which isn't a flickering light)
or
B) Your brake pads are worn down, which increases the piston's distance from the fluid container, reducing the level of the fluid in that container as more is now held in the lines. The movement of the car is sloshing the fluid, making it trip the low level sensor unsteadily.
If you just top off the fluid, then when you go to change brake pads, you push the pistons back in and dump fluid all over the place as the topped off amount now overflows.
Change your brake pads, THEN adjust fluid level as needed.
Every single modern car does the exact same thing here.
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Ok, checked my brake fluid level, it's not at the max line but it is above the min line so I think it's B. Low brake pads. Oddly though I've been driving around today and it hasn't come on at all but during the week it was on and off everyday. I'm taking in to the shop asap, I was just worried thinking my brakes would just not work all of a sudden. So I should be good driving until mid this week. No noticeable grinding so I guess I should be cool?
#10
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You're fine, just swap those pads soon.
What year is your car? If you've never flushed the brake fluid, might as well kill 2 birds with one stone
What year is your car? If you've never flushed the brake fluid, might as well kill 2 birds with one stone
#11
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The sensor can't tell if the pads are full or gone
One thing that makes the light goes on when the fluid gets low...often because the pads are worn and the piston volume is higher..OEM reservoir is designed to show a light when the volume at min pads is below the sensed minimun.....but all bets are off on that if it has been topped up since the pads were installed
One thing that makes the light goes on when the fluid gets low...often because the pads are worn and the piston volume is higher..OEM reservoir is designed to show a light when the volume at min pads is below the sensed minimun.....but all bets are off on that if it has been topped up since the pads were installed
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Well, I drove all around again today and it only came on once and it was when I had to hit the brakes hard, not really hard but a little harder than normal, and it flashed for a split second. Jedi I'm in an 2004 GT. Tomorrow I'm going to try and take her to the actual dealership instead of the guy I usually take it to. Mainly because I need them to reprogram a new fob keypad for me but while I'm there I'll see if they can flush my coolant, do the brakes for sure and a needed oil change. Wonder how much this is going to cost
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Brakes are easy to do yourself. REALLY easy. Like, literally 2 wrenches. Mazda new their car would be raced, and people would be changing brake pads often for track days.
The dealer will charge you AT LEAST $800, though reports of dealer brake pad changes of $1,600 to $2,100 have been seen.
Please don't submit yourself to that.
The dealer will charge you AT LEAST $800, though reports of dealer brake pad changes of $1,600 to $2,100 have been seen.
Please don't submit yourself to that.
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Just talked to my mechanic that has been servicing my RX since I got it. To do a coolant flush, oil change and to replace the front pads is going to cost me $387. The problem I have is I have no place to work on my car or else I would do most car maintainence myself. I live in an apartment and the parking lot is just to busy to do stuff. So until we get a house I'm stuck paying to have things done. The last time my mechanic checked my car he said the rear pads are still around 50% life left on them, the fronts were much less like 15% left. And I am not getting any grinding or vibrating when braking at high speeds so he thinks it won't need any rotor work. This place isn't a mazda dealership but they advertise that they specialize in mazda and honda and the owner races RX 7's so I put some trust into them I sappose and go off of what they tell me.
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