Startl_Respons

I bought new OEM spark plugs, applied anti-seize, and proceeded to install the spark plugs. I had previously wiped off the residue around the spark plug holes.

I first used my bare hands to twist each plug in as far as I could. Then I inserted the socket and used my hands to twist the socket as far as I could. Finally I used the ratchet (with 12" extension and a joint) to finish the job. As advised by many people, I did not use a torque wrench.

Both trailing plugs (the plugs on top) were easy to "feel." With the ratchet, I reached the "end point" very quickly for the trailing plugs. I could feel a nice and quick and abrupt "end," at which point I tightened just a tad more beyond that "end" point. Felt kind of like putting a screw into wood, where you feel when you hit the end with certainty.

BUT things didn't "feel" quite right with the leading plugs (the plugs on the bottom). The leading plugs felt like they were willing to keep twisting. There was more and more resistance, sure, but I never felt confident that I had hit an easily discernible "end point." Therefore, I'm not sure if I screwed the leading plugs in too far/tight or not enough.

Can anyone who's done their spark plugs relate to what I'm saying?

Is it even that important to get them just right? Is there an ample range where within that range, the spark plug should operate just fine? Any advice would be appreciated.



****UPDATE: I believe I have a definitive answer now and it's good news. Please read POST #10 in this thread for the answer.****

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I used a Torque wrench and I have had no problems.

Yes, its very important that u get them right, you DONT want them to be too far *in to* the combustion chambers.

Startl_Respons

Are you saying that screwing in the plugs felt about the same to you for the trailing versus the leading plugs?

10 to 15 lb-ft torque is not a lot. I have a torque wrench but it's kind of weird to use. It clicks at a certain point but even then it seems like it can still tighten further. And it's hard to sense or hear the click. I have one of those torque wrenches that's like a ratchet but at the end of the handle you twist it to the desired setting and then tighten a small **** at the very end.

What I've always wanted to know about that type of torque wrench is: Once I reach the torque that I set it at, will it absolutely not tighten any further no matter even if I keep twisting the torque wrench? If I keep trying to tighten it further, will it absolutely GIVE WAY, like how a ratchet gives way and just keeps clicking when you twist it the opposite direction? Seems like my torque wrench just clicks once but doesn't keep clicking or give way.

dothackRAVE

If it "clicks", it's done. Just leave it after that. If you continue to force it, obviously it'll move.

Startl_Respons

But what if there is an obstruction early on and you have to go beyond 10 to 15 lb-ft to get past it? An obstruction might be anything that might cause the turning to be a little tight as opposed to hitting the "end" point.

I know it sounds like I'm over-complicating things but I'm telling you guys, twisting the trailing plugs felt distinctly different from twisting the leading plugs. Twisting both trailing plugs felt the same, nice and easy, and hit the end point quickly and with certainty. Twisting both leading plugs felt the same, both did not feel nice and easy early on, so I felt I had to twist through "mud" and it seemed to allow me to keep twisting more and more (although there was increasing resistance), no abrupt/certain end point. I never felt a discernible end point even after I had twisted quite a ways.

I can't believe no one else on this forum experienced the difference in feel between the trailing and leading plugs. The fact the trailing plugs felt nice and easy indicates that it can't be totally my lack of experience. GOD, I wish I could have had an expert go through the steps with me just one time, and after that I would know exactly what it should feel like when it's tightened.

Anyway, I will redo the leading plugs tomorrow. I have to do it anyways to inject the oil into the combustion chamber to re-attain compression (FYI, I'm changing spark plugs because I flooded my engine and can't get my car started).

Startl_Respons

These kinds of torque wrenches are imprecise. Why can't we buy a cheap torque wrench that once you hit the torque setting, it just keeps giving way (and keeps clicking at the same time) no matter how much you keep turning? Isn't that how air tools work? When I watch the guys at a shop put lug nuts back on, the air tool just keeps spinning without turning the lug nut when it's hit the specified torque setting.

Anyway, cross my fingers and tomorrow the car will start, and all this will be a valuable learning experience.

max5roadster

pull em back out, clean all threads and reinsert. I got an end point on both, but for me, it was the reverse. My Trailing were easy, but the Leading took alittle more to find the end point. You may also be feeling the washer crush?.?. -just a thought.

Startl_Respons

Max, if you re-read my threads, I'm in agreement with you. My trailing were easy but the leading were difficult to feel. Anyway, I'm about to start working on my car this morning. Let's see what happens.

DOMINION

Any news? I plan on doing mine when I get home!

Startl_Respons

Sorry I didn't post back yesterday. We were busy celebrating successfully starting my car. For those who don't know, I was changing spark plugs after my car flooded.

Dominion, yes there is news and it's good news. The reason why my leading plugs were hard to "feel" was because of Procedure B in the Crank No Start bulletin, in which I have to take the plugs out (and disconnect the eccentric shaft position sensor) and then crank the starter over and over until no more black gunk (gas mixed with oil) comes out of the spark plug holes. Well, when you do that "purging" procedure, gunk comes out of the bottom holes, which are the leading spark plug holes. The gunk doesn't really come out of the top holes (trailing plug holes). You're supposed to then clean out the plug hole area with a towel but I couldn't reach into the threads, so presumably there was still gunk in the threads that causes the weird "feel" when you screw the leading plugs back in.

How do I know this for sure? Because I had to take the leading spark plugs out again (due to the fact I had to go to Procedure C in the bulletin, which is when Procedure B doesn't start the car) and inject oil into the combustion chambers. When I wiped off the leading spark plugs a little (the relevant part here are the threads) and reinserted them, this time there was no problem feeling the endpoint and it felt just like when I had screwed in the trailing plugs. So my conclusion is that it had to be the gunk left in the leading plug holes when I did the purging procedure.

Anyway, if you are not deflooding the car and you're just doing a normal spark plug change, then I would expect no problems and the trailing and leading plugs should feel the same.