In Denial About the Faith of My Engine
#26
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
my friends truck, which uses the same sensor, had one go bad, and it didn't stop working, it just got slow. so it ran fine, and the symptom he had was pinging under load, followed by a CEL for system too lean.
we put the laptop on it, and everything looked totally fine, but the long term fuel trim would creep up until the CEL came on.
new AFM fixed everything.
however i would say that while a new AFM/MAF is cheap, i'd see if i could borrow one from someone. basically every Mazda from 2003-now has the same sensor, and a bunch of toyotas too, so you don't need another Rx8 friend.
also Mazda updated the sensor, the old one is a ZL01, and the new one is a L321.
the really dumb part is that they had a bulletin to replace the starter if the car came in with a "hard start" problem, and since all three of my Rx8's had been to dealerships under warranty with a "hard start" complaint, but none of them had the starter i'm going to say its a dealer fail...
the dealership i worked at from 05-08, we replaced as many starters as we possibly could, Mazda payed for it, and we needed the money!
we put the laptop on it, and everything looked totally fine, but the long term fuel trim would creep up until the CEL came on.
new AFM fixed everything.
however i would say that while a new AFM/MAF is cheap, i'd see if i could borrow one from someone. basically every Mazda from 2003-now has the same sensor, and a bunch of toyotas too, so you don't need another Rx8 friend.
also Mazda updated the sensor, the old one is a ZL01, and the new one is a L321.
the really dumb part is that they had a bulletin to replace the starter if the car came in with a "hard start" problem, and since all three of my Rx8's had been to dealerships under warranty with a "hard start" complaint, but none of them had the starter i'm going to say its a dealer fail...
the dealership i worked at from 05-08, we replaced as many starters as we possibly could, Mazda payed for it, and we needed the money!
Very interesting, thanks for your input. I do remember paimon posting a thread/poll about faulty MAFs; it would definitely help if more people chimed in about getting theirs replaced and fixing their idle/hestitations.
I just looked under the hood and my MAF is ZL01. The sensor has been cleaned numerous times within the last year and half of ownership, so it is definitely possible that it may be on its way out. I've always wanted to see if a new MAF would fix any problems, but I've already spent money on a fuel pump which barely did anything and would rather not spend on anything until I get a proper diagnosis. (Man, would an Accessport be so handy right now, Lol)
I actually like the idea of borrowing a MAF from a different RX-8. I'll probably give that a shot as long as my friends are willing to let me remove it from their RX-8s.
If I may ask, the dealership you worked at, do you recall replacing any faulty MAFs?
I just looked under the hood and my MAF is ZL01. The sensor has been cleaned numerous times within the last year and half of ownership, so it is definitely possible that it may be on its way out. I've always wanted to see if a new MAF would fix any problems, but I've already spent money on a fuel pump which barely did anything and would rather not spend on anything until I get a proper diagnosis. (Man, would an Accessport be so handy right now, Lol)
I actually like the idea of borrowing a MAF from a different RX-8. I'll probably give that a shot as long as my friends are willing to let me remove it from their RX-8s.
If I may ask, the dealership you worked at, do you recall replacing any faulty MAFs?
speaking of MAF, my MAF has been working fine (knock on wood), but I got a "brand new" MAF from B&A, 2 days after I installed it (just for the hell of it, I got it cheap after stacking coupons LOL), I got a CEL, I forgot what it was but it was something like system lean of some kind, I bang my head and wondered why, after I while I swap the MAF back to the old one, BAM! problem resolved. and of course I returned the faulty MAF obviously, sob, it was so cheap! I should have ask for a replacement instead, o well.
#27
That MAF sensor is a common part, it's used on almost all major Japanese Automakers, Toyota Camry uses it for example.
speaking of MAF, my MAF has been working fine (knock on wood), but I got a "brand new" MAF from B&A, 2 days after I installed it (just for the hell of it, I got it cheap after stacking coupons LOL), I got a CEL, I forgot what it was but it was something like system lean of some kind, I bang my head and wondered why, after I while I swap the MAF back to the old one, BAM! problem resolved. and of course I returned the faulty MAF obviously, sob, it was so cheap! I should have ask for a replacement instead, o well.
speaking of MAF, my MAF has been working fine (knock on wood), but I got a "brand new" MAF from B&A, 2 days after I installed it (just for the hell of it, I got it cheap after stacking coupons LOL), I got a CEL, I forgot what it was but it was something like system lean of some kind, I bang my head and wondered why, after I while I swap the MAF back to the old one, BAM! problem resolved. and of course I returned the faulty MAF obviously, sob, it was so cheap! I should have ask for a replacement instead, o well.
Funny thing is his car almost has 124,000 miles on the original engine and it idles solid and pulls a lot better than my car.
#28
"I wanna go fast!"
#29
He recently replaced the coils and spark plugs after they took a crap on him on the freeway. The only thing that's wrong with his car is that his cat is starting to fail, but not enough to the point that it is clogged yet. (Rattling inside the exhaust, but no symptoms of power loss after long drives)
I still have my fingers crossed though, so we'll see what the tests tell us.
#30
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
His car is bone stock. He just got the car about a year ago, so I'm not exactly sure what his exact routine maintenance is. Although, I do know for sure that he doesn't pre-mix, and changes his oil every 3,000 miles with Chevron 5W-20 dino oil when I asked him about it today. He confirmed his engine to be original when he checked the VIN and his local rotary mechanic said there isn't a reman badge stamped on the block either.
He recently replaced the coils and spark plugs after they took a crap on him on the freeway. The only thing that's wrong with his car is that his cat is starting to fail, but not enough to the point that it is clogged yet. (Rattling inside the exhaust, but no symptoms of power loss after long drives)
I still have my fingers crossed though, so we'll see what the tests tell us.
He recently replaced the coils and spark plugs after they took a crap on him on the freeway. The only thing that's wrong with his car is that his cat is starting to fail, but not enough to the point that it is clogged yet. (Rattling inside the exhaust, but no symptoms of power loss after long drives)
I still have my fingers crossed though, so we'll see what the tests tell us.
the only way to check is run a vin, and it has to match the serial on the engine itself. if it doesn't, it was changed at some point. and don't always believe Mazda's history, there are times that I seen engines with no history shown, but the engine was replaced by a Mazda dealer.
a low compression engine can idle smooth, when my engine failed it was idle pretty smooth, but compression still failed.
#31
it depends on when the engine was made, it does not always have that "sticker/badge" on.
the only way to check is run a vin, and it has to match the serial on the engine itself. if it doesn't, it was changed at some point. and don't always believe Mazda's history, there are times that I seen engines with no history shown, but the engine was replaced by a Mazda dealer.
the only way to check is run a vin, and it has to match the serial on the engine itself. if it doesn't, it was changed at some point. and don't always believe Mazda's history, there are times that I seen engines with no history shown, but the engine was replaced by a Mazda dealer.
although if they did a good enough job you can't tell it was done, then maybe this is fine
#32
I see, thanks for the input guys, it's definitely a possibility that the engine may have been rebuilt or replaced. Anyways, I recently monitored and logged my car and it is currently being reviewed by a good friend along with a compression test. I'll post another update this weekend!
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#33
Update: I still haven't a chance to get a compression test done, so don't bash me about that just yet please, but I'll definitely do that no matter what, Lol. :
Here is the interesting part, the car is running extremely rich according to the logs at 4,000 RPM. Checked my exhaust tips as well and they are jet black; looks like someone rattle canned it with spray paint. It looks like the car is injecting too much fuel and the rest of it is being dumped into the exhaust causing hesitations/popping from unburned fuel; good thing I'm cat-less or this would have dug up even more problems.
I did notice that after I changed out to a Walbro unit not too long ago, the hesitations were more violent and the popping was more consistent. It makes sense because the OEM pump is old, so the new unit has more pressure which can possibly make the rich condition worse than it was.
So, the question is what could be causing my car to run so rich? I've ruled out the ignition system, front O2 sensor, and of course, fuel pump.
Bad injector?
I don't recall if our cars have a fuel pressure regulator, Lol.
I've read that a bad coolant sensor can cause pig rich situations as well, but I'm unsure about this as well.
Any other factors for a pig-rich condition? Car is going to mechanic tomorrow for diagnosis. (Finally)
Thanks guys.
Posted From RX8Club.com Android App
Here is the interesting part, the car is running extremely rich according to the logs at 4,000 RPM. Checked my exhaust tips as well and they are jet black; looks like someone rattle canned it with spray paint. It looks like the car is injecting too much fuel and the rest of it is being dumped into the exhaust causing hesitations/popping from unburned fuel; good thing I'm cat-less or this would have dug up even more problems.
I did notice that after I changed out to a Walbro unit not too long ago, the hesitations were more violent and the popping was more consistent. It makes sense because the OEM pump is old, so the new unit has more pressure which can possibly make the rich condition worse than it was.
So, the question is what could be causing my car to run so rich? I've ruled out the ignition system, front O2 sensor, and of course, fuel pump.
Bad injector?
I don't recall if our cars have a fuel pressure regulator, Lol.
I've read that a bad coolant sensor can cause pig rich situations as well, but I'm unsure about this as well.
Any other factors for a pig-rich condition? Car is going to mechanic tomorrow for diagnosis. (Finally)
Thanks guys.
Posted From RX8Club.com Android App
#36
Originally Posted by nycgps
stock tune always run pig rich
i haven't look at the log but at around 4000 rpm (almost) the 2nd set of injector turns on and there u go.
the system does have pressure regulator.
i haven't look at the log but at around 4000 rpm (almost) the 2nd set of injector turns on and there u go.
the system does have pressure regulator.
Posted From RX8Club.com Android App
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