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Coolant Light on Dash

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Old 06-14-2013, 08:58 PM
  #376  
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^^ o_0
Old 06-14-2013, 09:21 PM
  #377  
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Originally Posted by xxphredxx
Okay, I need to jump in on this thread.... I have an '04 rx8, having same issue with coolant light. Took it to Berge Mazda awhile back and was told it was just the sensor. Then last Thursday on my way to work, the temp gauge pinned to the right, I smelled anti-freeze, then the needle dropped all the way to the left. I pulled off the highway immediately, let the bitch cool down, then called my neighbor who showed up with 2 gallons of water. I waited a bit, then put water in it. She started up, but it was a little funky on start up, like cranked a bit slow. I chalked it up to the engine still being hot. She idled perfect, and had power. I drove her home and she was puking her guts again. At this point I figured it was the thermostat. The reason I figured this was she wasnt blowing coolant out of the tail pipes, nothing was leaking out of the rad.... Next morning I brought it to my mechanic and she was already puking again. I told him what I thought, and he agreed, so he put in a new therm. I went to pick the car up, and the mechanic was on a test drive. WHEN HE GOT BACK SHE WAS PUKING AGAIN. The owner said maybe they didn't burp the system enough, and there was an air pocket in there, so he said they would try it again. Same ****. So now he says my motor is shot. Does this sound legit? This is my first engine in this car, she has 74k. I have read about the issues, but like I said, there is no smoke out the tail, and no water in the oil. Please help. This is also my first rotary, so if I left out any pertinent info, please let me know.
You need to check the compression and record the RPM the engine was turning at. Then use a chart to see if the compression is bad.

You may need a water pump. However heat is the enemy of the rotory or any car.

You can not drive an RX 8 at all if it overheats. You will blow up the engine.
Old 06-14-2013, 09:23 PM
  #378  
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I have been having the same coolant light issue lately.
It started last year. Pain in the ***. Water temps are good per Cobb, but I hate looking at the light.
Old 06-15-2013, 01:49 PM
  #379  
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
um sweatr... you're using an oil temperature gauge to keep track of your water temp? I guess it's okay if you're working on horsehoes or hand grenades. Assume your water is any where +/- 25 degrees of oil.

This should work well up to the point something serious goes wrong.

Um , no dude I bought the gauge you see and I am buying another digital coolant gauge and mounting them on my piller( Drivers side) Just kidding dude. I am mounting them on my piller at least I think I am at this point. I will have a didital read out of both oil and temperature. I spoke with my mechanic at Mazda yesterday as to where in the stream is best to place the oil sensor and the coolant sensor. Ifd nothing else , this digital gauge pleases me and its my car right?, beside who can argue of keeping track of oil and coolant temperature any way. I think the point is that these gauges make me aware way before the stock float and dash idiot gauge do and in doing so they will make me aware of some thing serious going wrong quicker than your stock dash gauge or the coolant sensor. Plus I don't have to talk about the coolant tank or the iffy dash gauge any more, how cool is that right?.

Last edited by sweatr; 06-15-2013 at 01:56 PM.
Old 06-15-2013, 03:49 PM
  #380  
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You can have never have too many gauges. I have 10... 11 if you count my knock sensor digital readout.
Old 06-15-2013, 03:50 PM
  #381  
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correction .. 12 ... forgot my voltage meter
Old 06-16-2013, 03:59 PM
  #382  
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
You can have never have too many gauges. I have 10... 11 if you count my knock sensor digital readout.

No joke dude, I couldn't agree more and I don't have to see that poorly made coolant alarm come on every time I hit the 8000 rpm mark and I do that at least 4 or 5 times I drive it. Digitasl gauges are the best at this point.
Old 06-22-2013, 05:23 AM
  #383  
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Use a screwdriver!!

I had read through all the various solutions to this light problem and had finally opted for getting a replacement tank. The installation looked slightly daunting as I couldn't afford to damage any hoses so I had a quick look at the replacement before starting.

The sensor is a simple proximity one that could easily be changed. As everyone kept saying this was embedded I had to look further and realised that it is the ball float that sets off the proximity sensor that is embedded inside retainer in the tank. A quick knock on this ball with a long screwdriver dislodged it with the tank still in-situ and the light went off!! Far too easy a solution but gives a bit more depth to why this happening and potential other solutions for those of you where the simple screwdriver trick does not work or the problem is intermittent.

Make ball float by:-
  • try changing the concentration of the fluid mix to a level where it does float
  • use the recommended antifreeze
  • add some extra bouyancy to the ball somehow

Ripping out the entire tank now seems ludicrous
Old 06-22-2013, 10:22 AM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by revrower
...add some extra bouyancy to the ball somehow...
There is a post somewhere on this site (don't think it's in this thread, though) by someone who replaced the original sinking float with a wine cork. He cut a hole in the tank to get to it, then patched the hole with a couple of fender washers, some rubber gasket material, and a screw.

My own fix (which I've already posted at least a couple of times) is still working.

Ken
Old 06-23-2013, 08:13 PM
  #385  
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Originally Posted by ken-x8
There is a post somewhere on this site (don't think it's in this thread, though) by someone who replaced the original sinking float with a wine cork. He cut a hole in the tank to get to it, then patched the hole with a couple of fender washers, some rubber gasket material, and a screw.

My own fix (which I've already posted at least a couple of times) is still working.

Ken

Mazda's idea does not float
Old 07-16-2013, 08:38 PM
  #386  
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I just replaced mine again with part -351G; the first time was under warranty and it was replaced with part -350H. The original lasted just over 3 years, the second just over 5 years before going bad.

I did not disconnect the radiator end on the lower front hose. I pushed back the bottle just enough to expose the hose connection, then used needle nose pliers to slide back the clamp and work the hose loose. I could see where it connected to the radiator and took care to minimize torquing and bending at that end. It's a stiff hose, so any significant force at the top could fracture the attachment at the bottom. This way, I avoided having to break loose the radiator end of the hose. It went off and on easily.

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Old 07-16-2013, 09:31 PM
  #387  
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Yep, unless you initially had the .350M complete Bottle renewed you did not have the latests...now with .351G you do.

This is the Nipple on plastic top radiator tank which can break when renewing Coolant Bottle and replacing nipple Hose..
Attached Thumbnails Coolant Light on Dash-n3r1-15-200b-nipple..jpg  
Old 07-17-2013, 03:59 AM
  #388  
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Originally Posted by ASH8
Yep, unless you initially had the .350M complete Bottle renewed you did not have the latests...now with .351G you do.

This is the Nipple on plastic top radiator tank which can break when renewing Coolant Bottle and replacing nipple Hose..
Hi ASH8, for future reference, when having to deal with the fragile nipple, I thought it might be safer to cut the hose off near the end of the nipple and carefully slice it lengthwise to peel it off. Then replace hose.
Someone may have already suggested that, I don't recall seeing it.
Old 07-17-2013, 06:33 AM
  #389  
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Yes, that is the recommendation. Mazmart sells the coolant bottles with a new hose for that nipple specifically so you can cut the hose to avoid the risk.

<- this guy learned that the hard way AFTER breaking the nipple
Old 08-10-2013, 03:24 PM
  #390  
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Hi,

I also encountered this issue and I'm currently reading up on the issue and I'm trying to decide what to do about it.

During my research I've come across this: Floatless Coolant Sensor - advertised as a permanent solution to the problem.

Now, generally the rx8club forums includes tomnes of knowledge about all things RX8 but for some reason I can't find any mention about this. (sorry if I didn't look hard enough, the forums are huge).

So, what do you think about this alternative solution? Would it work? Would it be more permanent than changing the tank (which seems to slowly fail again each time)? Have anybody tested it with any success?
Old 08-26-2013, 11:14 AM
  #391  
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Interesting find! The website doesn't seem to sell the thing or mention a price or who does but I did a web search and it's for sale on Ebay Australia. Why Australia when the seller is in Singapore I can't say! Not to mention the seller's rather odd name - "beads_n_crafts"

Anyway, seems to be about $100 shipped worldwide, so cheaper and possibly less hassle to install than a new tank. Hmmmmm.....
Old 08-26-2013, 11:49 AM
  #392  
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And when you install the new hoses use radiator hose grease, it will make removing the hoses later a no hassle job.

Old 08-26-2013, 12:34 PM
  #393  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
And when you install the new hoses use radiator hose grease, it will make removing the hoses later a no hassle job.

Great tip!
I didn't know there was specific grease for that.
Old 08-27-2013, 01:25 AM
  #394  
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Originally Posted by BigCajun
Great tip!
I didn't know there was specific grease for that.
me either...

thanks for the tip 9k
Old 08-31-2013, 04:16 PM
  #395  
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mine comes on daily typically when im on the freeway doing 75 or so. at slower speeds too just not near as much. usually stays on for maybe 30 sec. or so then goes out. sometimes a bit longer but not much.
Old 01-21-2014, 04:21 PM
  #396  
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Damn, 4 years later and I still have the same issue. I never fixed the coolant light. I got used to it.
Old 01-21-2014, 05:31 PM
  #397  
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:18 PM
  #398  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I think the dealer told me it was $300 or something to fix the issue. Something had to be replaced. I'm going next week, I'll probably ask again.
Old 03-23-2014, 07:31 PM
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This light at first was the most annoying thing ever. But meh, after you get use to it it's whatever.
Old 03-23-2014, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Shyaam
This light at first was the most annoying thing ever. But meh, after you get use to it it's whatever.
Well, as long as you are keeping an eye on your coolant fluid level. You won't be saying "whatever" if the reason why your light is ON, because of a leak somewhere not because you have a faulty sensor.


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