Coolant Bottle greatest secrets revealed?
01-24-2011, 08:53 PM
#151
Super Moderator
Dave,
Notice the Pic (S) have been updated without the CAP..
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=336&page=1
Notice the Pic (S) have been updated without the CAP..
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=336&page=1
01-28-2011, 01:13 AM
#157
Ive wanted to fix this for the past 5 months...
Im going to goto the dealer and play dumb and see if they ever heard of this happening. lol
and theeeen....at the last minute they tell me i need a new radiator...im gonna show them the TSB haha
Im going to goto the dealer and play dumb and see if they ever heard of this happening. lol
and theeeen....at the last minute they tell me i need a new radiator...im gonna show them the TSB haha
02-08-2011, 12:56 AM
#158
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Hi Mazurfer and all; its me again.
Wanted to send u a PM; thought might as well share it on ur thread.
I finally replaced my coolant tank~! The part number of the tank is N3H1-15-351 without the G. Yes; my cap is being reused.
I just collected my car from the Mazda service center; did not have the time to speak to the mechanic who did my car.
My coolant bottle has been replaced with the one that comes with the sensor; i know this because they returned my old BROWNish bottle that has the sensor still intact + connector.
I have a very big doubt when i pop up my hood and look at the bottle.
Look at that circled in red. Nothing is connected~?
Why is my connector NOT connected in place? Wait a minute!
From the picture you can see that my connector is being placed BELOW~?
Im really puzzled. Ok im a lady i know nothing much about cars. Need all of ur advise here.
From the wire it can see that it is connected below instead.
So my question is; does the mechanic knows what he is doing? And also; how do i know if he installed the connector and everything without fault? Is there anyway to test? Kinda sounds stupid since i have a new coolant tank.
Please adivse
Wanted to send u a PM; thought might as well share it on ur thread.
I finally replaced my coolant tank~! The part number of the tank is N3H1-15-351 without the G. Yes; my cap is being reused.
I just collected my car from the Mazda service center; did not have the time to speak to the mechanic who did my car.
My coolant bottle has been replaced with the one that comes with the sensor; i know this because they returned my old BROWNish bottle that has the sensor still intact + connector.
I have a very big doubt when i pop up my hood and look at the bottle.
Look at that circled in red. Nothing is connected~?
Why is my connector NOT connected in place? Wait a minute!
From the picture you can see that my connector is being placed BELOW~?
Im really puzzled. Ok im a lady i know nothing much about cars. Need all of ur advise here.
From the wire it can see that it is connected below instead.
So my question is; does the mechanic knows what he is doing? And also; how do i know if he installed the connector and everything without fault? Is there anyway to test? Kinda sounds stupid since i have a new coolant tank.
Please adivse
Vindication is so sweet on occasion!
Notice what it says under "Description".
Check it out!
I also spot what I think is a very, very important item. Check your VIN number because according to how this reads, I could have replaced just the bottle and not the sensor itself(the reed switch) since I have an Oct. 05 build date, but I'll have to confirm that against my VIN.
This assumes of course you can actually buy the bottle without the sensor.................and not sure you can.
The float(the culprit in most cases) come with the bottle and not the sensor itself.
Also...........this implies Tommy needs to do an update to the finishline site as it doesn't list this bulletin.
If you want to check to see if your sensor is bad before attempting to buy the bottle itself, or whether you need the sensor and the bottle, then do this with the bottle still in the car:
1.) Unplug the sensor at the connector located to the left of the bottle.
2.) On the sensor side of the connector, use an ohm meter and check the resistance between the two terminals. With it unplugged, and assuming you have adequate coolant level, and a "good" float, you will measure > 2meg ohms. This means the reed switch(sensor)switch is open meaning............
a.) You have adequate coolant and........
b.) The float is okay and floating like it should be.
3.) If you measure less than say 100 ohms(I forget the actial number and finally threw away my old butcher shaft and magnet, but I think it was 10 ohms), then the float is riding low on the shaft, the reed switch has closed, and the float has lost buoyancy!
Notice what it says under "Description".
Check it out!
I also spot what I think is a very, very important item. Check your VIN number because according to how this reads, I could have replaced just the bottle and not the sensor itself(the reed switch) since I have an Oct. 05 build date, but I'll have to confirm that against my VIN.
This assumes of course you can actually buy the bottle without the sensor.................and not sure you can.
The float(the culprit in most cases) come with the bottle and not the sensor itself.
Also...........this implies Tommy needs to do an update to the finishline site as it doesn't list this bulletin.
If you want to check to see if your sensor is bad before attempting to buy the bottle itself, or whether you need the sensor and the bottle, then do this with the bottle still in the car:
1.) Unplug the sensor at the connector located to the left of the bottle.
2.) On the sensor side of the connector, use an ohm meter and check the resistance between the two terminals. With it unplugged, and assuming you have adequate coolant level, and a "good" float, you will measure > 2meg ohms. This means the reed switch(sensor)switch is open meaning............
a.) You have adequate coolant and........
b.) The float is okay and floating like it should be.
3.) If you measure less than say 100 ohms(I forget the actial number and finally threw away my old butcher shaft and magnet, but I think it was 10 ohms), then the float is riding low on the shaft, the reed switch has closed, and the float has lost buoyancy!
02-08-2011, 02:50 AM
#159
Super Moderator
I will help here...
The number you posted "Does Not Exits"...N3H1-15-351
You had either..
N3H1-15-351G Tank with Sensor and NEW Wiring.
N3Y1-15-351 Tank with No External Wiring
N3H1-15-350M (Tank with New Cap) which they are not using at the moment.
Now if you had this one installed N3Y1-15-351 Tank with No External Wiring, the tech guy would have reused your existing (old) sensor (not float) and Wiring...but your wiring plug looks new??
To me it looks like they installed a N3H1-15-351G Tank with Sensor and NEW Wiring (has everything except pressure Cap).
He has forgotten to Clip the Cable Plug on, so Just do so and see if there is any light on dash when driving, note, a disconnected plug will give you NO dash light anyway, if you do plug it on and get a light then there is an issue with this dealer install.
So, just plug that cable (clip) on and start/drive car, I am sure they guy just forgot to do this..
You can not hurt anything.
The number you posted "Does Not Exits"...N3H1-15-351
You had either..
N3H1-15-351G Tank with Sensor and NEW Wiring.
N3Y1-15-351 Tank with No External Wiring
N3H1-15-350M (Tank with New Cap) which they are not using at the moment.
Now if you had this one installed N3Y1-15-351 Tank with No External Wiring, the tech guy would have reused your existing (old) sensor (not float) and Wiring...but your wiring plug looks new??
To me it looks like they installed a N3H1-15-351G Tank with Sensor and NEW Wiring (has everything except pressure Cap).
He has forgotten to Clip the Cable Plug on, so Just do so and see if there is any light on dash when driving, note, a disconnected plug will give you NO dash light anyway, if you do plug it on and get a light then there is an issue with this dealer install.
So, just plug that cable (clip) on and start/drive car, I am sure they guy just forgot to do this..
You can not hurt anything.
02-08-2011, 03:00 AM
#160
Super Moderator
So, to help you more...
Just grab the Circled Male Wiring Plug in last picture, and Clip it into the Female plug that is Fixed onto the Coolant Bottle...that is the pink and black wired Male Plug tucked under...it can ONLY click on ONE Way, you can not click it on incorrectly...or hurt anything.
If you car is turned OFF and Ignition to OFF or KEY out, there is NO Power to that Plug and Wiring.
So you Can not be electrocuted or shocked or hurt anything in anyway..OK...
Or of you do not want to do this easy task, take it back to your dealer.
Just grab the Circled Male Wiring Plug in last picture, and Clip it into the Female plug that is Fixed onto the Coolant Bottle...that is the pink and black wired Male Plug tucked under...it can ONLY click on ONE Way, you can not click it on incorrectly...or hurt anything.
If you car is turned OFF and Ignition to OFF or KEY out, there is NO Power to that Plug and Wiring.
So you Can not be electrocuted or shocked or hurt anything in anyway..OK...
Or of you do not want to do this easy task, take it back to your dealer.
02-08-2011, 04:14 AM
#161
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So, to help you more...
Just grab the Circled Male Wiring Plug in last picture, and Clip it into the Female plug that is Fixed onto the Coolant Bottle...that is the pink and black wired Male Plug tucked under...it can ONLY click on ONE Way, you can not click it on incorrectly...or hurt anything.
If you car is turned OFF and Ignition to OFF or KEY out, there is NO Power to that Plug and Wiring.
So you Can not be electrocuted or shocked or hurt anything in anyway..OK...
Or of you do not want to do this easy task, take it back to your dealer.
Just grab the Circled Male Wiring Plug in last picture, and Clip it into the Female plug that is Fixed onto the Coolant Bottle...that is the pink and black wired Male Plug tucked under...it can ONLY click on ONE Way, you can not click it on incorrectly...or hurt anything.
If you car is turned OFF and Ignition to OFF or KEY out, there is NO Power to that Plug and Wiring.
So you Can not be electrocuted or shocked or hurt anything in anyway..OK...
Or of you do not want to do this easy task, take it back to your dealer.
Hi there Ash;
I understand what u mean by just grabing the Circled Male Wiring Plug and Plug it into the Female plug. Reason being as shown in my last picture. The Male plug has been hard WIRED below the FEMALE PLUG. Meaning it is so sort "WIRED" connected to the FEMALE plug.
The pink wired is still on the Male PLug but the black wired has been WIRED into the female plug below. If u get what i mean..hmm
Why would the mechanic do that?
02-08-2011, 02:57 PM
#162
Super Moderator
Hi there Ash;
I understand what u mean by just grabing the Circled Male Wiring Plug and Plug it into the Female plug. Reason being as shown in my last picture. The Male plug has been hard WIRED below the FEMALE PLUG. Meaning it is so sort "WIRED" connected to the FEMALE plug.
The pink wired is still on the Male PLug but the black wired has been WIRED into the female plug below. If u get what i mean..hmm
Why would the mechanic do that?
I understand what u mean by just grabing the Circled Male Wiring Plug and Plug it into the Female plug. Reason being as shown in my last picture. The Male plug has been hard WIRED below the FEMALE PLUG. Meaning it is so sort "WIRED" connected to the FEMALE plug.
The pink wired is still on the Male PLug but the black wired has been WIRED into the female plug below. If u get what i mean..hmm
Why would the mechanic do that?
I really doubt it has been "Hard Wired" at all..it is almost impossible to do.
If you are not sure get a stick and see if the Male Plug moves, you should be able to pull the Male plug out and Up and Over to Click into Female plug on Coolant Bottle..
It is a tight area to move it in, as I said you cant hurt anything, unless the stick you use is razor sharp.
Your pic to me just looks as if it is Stuck there, nothing more.
I really cant tell you anymore not being there, if you do not have the confidence to move this Male Plug and Lead out then take it to a dealer, should be fixed in 5 seconds..
02-08-2011, 07:22 PM
#163
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After seeing your PM "J", I gotta agree with Ash in that they just forgot to plug it in.
I too doubt it's hard wired.
So................let see if this helps(which is nothing more than Ash said), the wires and connector you see down there on the side are connected at the other end to the bottom of the bottle, and while those wires and connector might be jammed in there and stuck a little bit, you should be able to lift them upwards and then plug into the female connector. Give it a shot, with the car off, just carefully wiggle them a little bit(might have to use finger to move something out of the way) and without pulling too hard, see if you can get them unstuck from whatever is pinching them and holding them down there. Then just plug it in.
There is no harm in leaving it the way it is, but..................since you bought a new bottle, you might as well use that fact and have the light come on whenever you run low on coolant. The only way that will happen is with that connector plugged in.
There is no way the Tech would be stupid enough to attempt to wire your harness coming off the bottom of the bottle to what I will call the lower part of the female connector. If he did, you PM me, I'll fly to wherever you are and personally bitch slap the dude, then I'll correct it.
Just due to the room involved, that would be so much trouble, it wouldn't make any sense at all. My guess is that when he put the new bottle in, the wires got pinched or held(if you will) and he brainfarted and forgot to plug it in.
I too doubt it's hard wired.
So................let see if this helps(which is nothing more than Ash said), the wires and connector you see down there on the side are connected at the other end to the bottom of the bottle, and while those wires and connector might be jammed in there and stuck a little bit, you should be able to lift them upwards and then plug into the female connector. Give it a shot, with the car off, just carefully wiggle them a little bit(might have to use finger to move something out of the way) and without pulling too hard, see if you can get them unstuck from whatever is pinching them and holding them down there. Then just plug it in.
There is no harm in leaving it the way it is, but..................since you bought a new bottle, you might as well use that fact and have the light come on whenever you run low on coolant. The only way that will happen is with that connector plugged in.
There is no way the Tech would be stupid enough to attempt to wire your harness coming off the bottom of the bottle to what I will call the lower part of the female connector. If he did, you PM me, I'll fly to wherever you are and personally bitch slap the dude, then I'll correct it.
Just due to the room involved, that would be so much trouble, it wouldn't make any sense at all. My guess is that when he put the new bottle in, the wires got pinched or held(if you will) and he brainfarted and forgot to plug it in.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 02-08-2011 at 07:25 PM.
02-08-2011, 07:30 PM
#164
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I think I see it now!
See the gray connector you have in the red circle?
It looks like it's plugged in somewhere, but it's not, it's just wedged in there below the other connector. take you finger and just bend/free it up. turn it a little bit, then lift it directly towards you as you view this photo.
If you push down on that connector with your finger, you will see that it's free and not attached!
Last edited by Mazurfer; 02-08-2011 at 07:32 PM.
02-09-2011, 05:05 AM
#165
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Hey guys; thanks alot for your input.
I have chucked my rx8 back to the Mazda Service Center and have them sort it out.
I just told them; connector not connected in place.
Will give u shout out when i have any updated info.
I have chucked my rx8 back to the Mazda Service Center and have them sort it out.
I just told them; connector not connected in place.
Will give u shout out when i have any updated info.
03-27-2011, 03:56 PM
#167
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hey thanks for all the points of view. My coolant light started flashing on interstate at 65 mph with cruise control on. it coms on and goes off. took to dealer...they said i needed a new engine. Had a second 2004 engine put in and after that I figured the light would go off. Wll no it is on all the time. I asked the dealer, they said perhaps a bubble of air or something affecting the sensor. They said to just ignore it if the levels are good. So I drive with it on. But when I run the air without the ac on, the car fill s with the smell of coolant. Now when I turn on the ac the car smells like coolant. Now the ac leaks water on my feet on the floor either right side or left side of front by accelerator. To top that off now, the heater does not work. The last time i took the car to the dealership they kept it for almost 2 weeks and I only received a rentl for 2 days, so I do not really want to go back.
09-17-2011, 11:05 AM
#168
Should I replace my original tank?
I have an '05. Not having the false coolant light problem (except, oddly, one time a couple of years ago. Weird.) Is it worth buying a new tank for $109 to have the dealer replace the original? I'm due for the 2-year coolant flush.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Last edited by New Yorker; 09-17-2011 at 11:13 AM.
09-17-2011, 05:07 PM
#169
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Well, I guess if you got the money, but I don't think I would until you need to do it and you can do it yourself(instead of the dealer), he'll probably charge you $100.00 just to put it in. If you don't break off the radiator nipple, you can do it in about 20 minutes tops!
09-24-2011, 07:51 PM
#171
@Mazurfer Thanks for the amazing post, you have really gone above and beyond for the Rx8 Club community.
This light has been bugging me for ages. I regularly check all the levels so I am not worried about not having enough coolant, I am just going to disconnect the cable.
This light has been bugging me for ages. I regularly check all the levels so I am not worried about not having enough coolant, I am just going to disconnect the cable.
09-28-2011, 06:03 AM
#172
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Really helpful thread, guys. Just got my '08 RX8 4 days ago and the coolant light issue has been driving me crazy. Luckily, I have a 30 bumper to bumper (+ I purchased the additional 150K Warranty) so I'm hoping that this will be covered. If not, guess I'll put my big girl panties on and see if this is something I can replace.
I'm a second generation RX woman, my mom drove an RX7 back in the late 80's.
Love the "club", great wealth of information here...LOVE my RX8!
I'm a second generation RX woman, my mom drove an RX7 back in the late 80's.
Love the "club", great wealth of information here...LOVE my RX8!
10-01-2011, 10:12 AM
#173
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just wanted to post that I love this board. It exact posts like this that let me knowledgably explain issues to the dealers, which make me love my rx8. That PDF was perfect and allowed me to NOT have any costly radiator work done.
01-25-2012, 02:55 AM
#175
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I will give you a tip, it is in this section as a stcky...still need a link?