A few posts back I said

I didn't spot anything, but I'm not as limber as I used to be. Had the dealer take a look today. Add another bracket to the casualty list. My service advisor described it as a bad bolt. He's ordered a new bracket (part number FEY5-41-30XB on the writeup). He said it would take a week or so to get, and covered by the warranty.

When they replace it I'll see if I can get some snapshots of the old one.

Ken

 

The break usually occurs on the upper left part of the plate.

 

I'm pretty sure that looked intact when I crawled under. Of course, it may not have progressed far enough to be visible with the nut still in place. And I'm a bit too overweight and undercondition to have really gotten in there. I'll get a better look in a week or two when they get it out.

Any idea what that piece is for in the middle? The odd bent shape under the actuating rod?

Ken

 

It's the guide for that rod.

 

Thanks!

Being a bit O-C, I googled the part number, partly because of "B" in the part number and earlier discussion in this thread about the new part being the same as the old. I found the following linked from mazdaparts.org listing of the non-B version:

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-...lutchpedal.pdf

(I did search this site before posting this link. Found SSP82 itself, but not this attachment.) There are a few interesting things. One is that it shows the damage area exactly where it is in your photo - of course. The other is that it shows a torque spec and tightening order for the three nuts. Earlier in this thread I got into a discussion with a member (who I won't name) who dismissed the idea that tightening order matters. Given where the damage occurs, the tightening order makes complete sense. That supports Mazda's assertion blaming this on the assembly line workers. (Still Mazda's fault for inadequate training.) It's also interesting that they say that if no crack is found the three nuts should be loosened and retightened in the right order.

Hopefully this document isn't a repost, but either way it should be useful to anyone replacing the bracket themselves, or installing the reinforcement kit. Or anyone who might want to forestall trouble by retorquing properly.

Ken

 

Not broken!! Instead of there being a crack near nut "A" (see image) a teflon (white plastic, anyway) bushing where the spring pivots in the frame had failed. See the red circle. That was the source of the noise, and explains why at times it sounded so much like a screen door with a rusty spring.

So the answer to my question back in post #1335 is "Now somebody has."

Thanks to Rob and his team at Rosenthal Tyson's Mazda for diagnosing the problem and taking care of it with their customary efficiency.

Ken

 

You wouldn't be the first with that problem I have seen a few break and separate through the bushing. I would say 1 in 100 pedals has/had the issue.

 

Yikes! That sounds really common. Funny that with over 90,000 members here and me spending more time here than I should, I don't remember ever seeing a post on it. Lots on the cracked bracket, and a fair number on the cut switch, but not on this.

Good thing I missed whatever posts there were on the bushing. Had I know it could happen, I might have looked for it, assumed it was not covered on the bracket warranty, and screwed with it myself.

Does your reinforcement kit come with improved bushings? I'm not in the market for one, since I've now got the "B" model bracket and it was installed by a dealer mechanic, but just wondering.

Ken

 

it would be interesting to know how many had stiffer aftermarket clutches installed ...

 

i have stock clutch i swear!

exedy oe is same as stock?...

 

Not everyone is as active on the forums as you might think, I believe most just read. But I have seen quite a few in my emails with questions and so forth.

Our kit does not come with improved bushings not sure that would fix the problem compared to the size of the bushing needed and space allowed within that tiny hole where the spring slides into.

 

did your clutch squeek before the break?

 

Apparently, you haven't read enough...

 

no, theres 55 pages.... im lazy

 

Dumb questions belong in the Dumb Question Thread.

 

But ya gatta be smart enough to find that thread...

Ken

 

I can't even remember my own birthday, but I do remember you posting that you had 10000 miles or so on a stiffer aftermarket clutch when yours broke.


Bet you forgot to include that in your complaint to the NHTSA too ...

 

Genuine Mazda RX-8 Clutch Pedal Assembly
My clutch pedal is showing signs of breaking and I was wondering if anyone had ordered there's from this site? (Mine's an 04 and is out of warranty).

 

Boy oh boy i wish the PO did this before I bought my car....

 

my clutch started squeeking today but its not squeeking at the clutch assembly its squeeking inside the transmision when i depress. the pedal also feels weird like a vibration when you depress even if the car is shut off.
also it goes away when the car cools and comes back when its warmed up
cars at 68k 6spd m/t never had any trans fluid replaced or diff fluid. pedal assembly has no play whatsoever. anybody have any experience with this

im thinking clutch line
the clutch itself or fluid maybe?
idk

input?

 

just read this.

it was less than 10K, maybe around 5-6 K, then I swap it back out for Exedy.

it doesn't matter really, a lot of people's bracket broke. it's a suck *** design and we all know it.

Mazda said it's design life is 100K miles. Do you seriously think what they said was true ?

 

It was a flimsy design, surprisingly, mine lasted 140,000 miles.

 

ok I have a heavy foot, I admit

 

BHR's reinforced pedal is so beast. Welds all over the place. I've had mine for about 10k so far and I'm pretty sure it will last the life of my car. My original pedal lasted only to 75k. It snapped while I was two hours away from home. Had to press and lift the pedal all the way home.

 

^^^ +1000
I have one of the first BHR reinforced pedals (Ray installed it himself) and I have ZERO doubt that clutch pedal will out live me and my car.


I was also able to submit a repair reimbursement to Mazda for the cost of the pedal and labor.