so my clutch pedal started squeaking even louder recently, is there a way to prevent the squeaking/breaking. The Clutch Pedal Reinforcement Bracket that race roots offers the only fix for this besides welding?

Yep.

'course if you're still under warranty you can wait for it to break and get it replaced. But for me it wasn't worth that aggravation.

im way out of warranty so i think ill just buy the reinforcement bracket soon before mine snaps on me.

We're seeing a second break now? Geez.

A while ago my pedal squeaked and the dealer greased "it" as a solution. It hasn't really made noise since, but I've always felt that there was either something wrong with it, or that my tranny is toast. Thing is, the angle and position that I depress the clutch from seems to effect shifting behavior.

Hopefully a safety recall where they replace the brackets of all concerned owners comes of this, broken or not. Certainly isn't "safe" to make owners wait and see.

if they found this to be a problem (very possible), they will force Mazda to redesign the whole bracket.

Changing the material to something harder might not work because it might change the crash test result.

Lets see what NHTSA gonna do.

and as always, if you're having an issue/had an issue. Go report it !

Just had they same issue , and I'm filing a report as we speak...

A lot of the squeaking can be caused by a clutch bearing. Mine is noisy when the car is cold. It's not a big deal; just noise.

Well had another customer call me today so far I have seen 4 assemblies where they have been Re-Welded and still snapped...

this is clearly a design defect.

Its pretty easy to resolve it Mazda,

just use better than that 0.5 mm sheet metal and weld a few more spots for our's sake :(

OK i just filed a report.

Upon further investigation I think my clutch creaking sound is coming from the little blue plastic ring that is like a washer/grommet between the spring and metal plates. Please refer to picture.

I can see the plastic ring moving when I use my hand to push the clutch pedal in, it looks like the piece is cracked or loose and makes the noise I hear as it moves.

Does anyone know where I can get a part to replace that little blue ring? Thanks!

https://www.rx8club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=13110

Yes, that blue plastic washer is another weak design element. Mine doesn't creak from it very often and is intact, but every once in awhile....

At least my spring hasn't worn its way thru the housing as some members have.

In an otherwise well designed vehicle (exception ignition system) this clutch pedal assembly in whole is a disappointment. It's like the human factors engineers took a holiday when it was being designed! Any place where there's human-machine interface requires extra consideration since the gamut of use is so wide.

Clutch Pedal Snapped, Catastrophic Damage
 

Here is the damage caused when my pedal decided to break.
Driving down the road at 35mph, pressed clutch to shift gears, <SNAP>.

Flywheel had to be replaced because of 'Hot Spotting'
Clutch Disc obviously got hot enough to turn blue, which happens at about 1000degC (annealing temperature) - where the metal begins to become brittle

Pedal - $250.12
Disc - $229.17
Pressure Plate - $286.12
Fly Wheel - $221.81
Throwout Bearing - $68.72
Misc Costs - ~$30
Labor - $624.00

Total Cost - $1748.08
Time for Replacement - 1 week (exactly)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

wow, that's some serious shit.

Did you see this TSB? http://www.finishlineperformance.com...11-06-1724.pdf

My dealer lubed my clutch pedal and it still squeaked. They have ordered this part but its taking weeks to get in. Car has to still be under b2b warranty tho.

laserjock, I've not heard of the clutch going because of the pedal snapping. If the clutch is inactive, how does it get hot? Just wondering! I'm not mechanically inclined enough to understand.

Did you file a report on the pedal snapping? See earlier posts.
I believe that the rest is not related to the pedal snapping.

I'm beginning to wonder if the US government will do anything about this until someone dies because of it.

I read the TSB on another thread too.
The noise happens when the pedal is pushed past the point where the clutch switch is fully disengaged, so I think the noise in this case isn't caused by the switch.
Thanks for bringing the TSB to my attention. :)

the stock clutch comes with that blue finish. just an fyi.

sorry to hear what happened. something really needs to be done.

That's what it usually takes. At the very least, they'd be looking for some accidents.

Ken

THIS IS CRAZY. How many times do I have to fill out a report? I just got another email asking basically for the same stuff I've already said to the two other people and emails they sent me. They are really taking a good old time aren't they. Anyone else get a third email from the gov?

I got my 2nd email from a "different" guy.

asking pretty much the same questions.

*sigh*

I got my 2nd email from a "different" guy.

asking pretty much the same questions.

*sigh*

Do you mind providing details of what you did when your clutch went out? Your damages are inconsistent with a complete clutch failure.

I can't believe I've been frequenting this board for 6 months now and I haven't yet heard of this before. People are always talking about premixing, coils, short shifters, clear corners and apex seals, but I've not seen this until now.

My reverse has always been really hard to engage - sometimes I can't get it to lock so I have to hold the pressure into reverse as I release the clutch and hit the throttle to get it to engage. In the past 4-5k miles my 2nd gear has been grinding even with the clutch pressed fully (('04 w/ 45k (now) in AZ, all stock)). It was only occasionally, and usually when driving from cold, but happening more often with time. So at 45k I just recently replaced the differential fluid with Amsoil 75-110 plus 2oz. Amsoil friction modifier, and the transmission with 25% Amsoil Synchromesh and 75% Amsoil syn GL4. The shifting was immediately smoother, but the grinding seemed to get worse over the first 2 weeks after the change. I read about blipping to 4k RPMs in neutral before driving to splash lube the transmission, and since doing that the past week I haven't had any grinding so far. Maybe the grinding was worse at first because of the simultaneous change in AZ temps to cool weather, or maybe the transmission was adjusting to the new synthetic fluid which could have been dislodging buildup of metal particles (the magnetic plugs both had thick sludge stuck on them).

Anyway, the 2nd gear grinding search led me here. I just inspected my car and I don't see any evident signs of tearing or splitting at the welds. The white plastic bolt was loose so I tightened that. The others aren't loose to the touch, but I didn't try tightening anything with wrenches. I'm ordering the reinforcement bracket, and down the road when I've finished the timing on my other car, I might also take it out to have my ex-Navy welder friend do some solid work. I noticed that the clutch assembly does easily bend and give when the pedal is pulled sideways. The throttle is likewise very weak, but the throttle assembly is not receiving nearly as much pressure or travel as the clutch assembly. And I think the clutch is always going to have a certain degree of lateral pressure from different sized people with different driving styles.

Props to NY for getting this investigated. I'd hate to have mine snap while flying down the freeway or downshifting through a turn. Glad that I found this before mine showed visible signs of failure, I'm right at the magic 45k mile mark that lots seem to fail at. When I install the bracket, I'll also check the tensions with a wrench, adjust the travel play, and flush the clutch fluid.

This needs more visibility in the forums.

Interestingly I reported this a few months back to a contact I have at Mazda Australia, he came back and said they have not had any issues with Right Hand Drive cars...

Are there any Right Hand Drive Owners out there with a clutch pedal problem??..

So it appears ONLY Left Hand Drive RX-8 owners are having issues here.

From what I understand in most instances your clutch pedal will give you warning that there is a problem...as the pedal moves closer to your brake one...?

does anyone could help me and tell me where i could buy some synchronizes and gears stock or aftermarket!!! something better than the stock one???
Thanks

PPG makes gear sets for Miata, just not sure for which Miata year.

We have the same tranny. so ...

Just get your gears Cyro-treated. thats it.

.....i just had the squicking for like 20-30K klm, continuous lubrication of the general area like pedal & gearbox lever (where the pedal applies the pressure on the gearbox) from my dealer,

no mention on their behalf that there may be an issue and that "it is very difficult to extract the pedal for strengthening"

and finally, on the last day: very short pedal distance and BAM it broke on an uphill trip leaving from my house.... :SHOCKED::mad::mad:

yeah this is off subject & I know theres other threads but seriously, when the **** r they going to RECALL these tailights????? im over it, couple of months in florida = 3 cups of water in tailight

any link please?

Google ?

I just got my reinforcement kit in the mail along with a syncro saver (shift stop). The syncro saver came with only 4 bolts instead of the 7 it's supposed to have. So before I contact RR, can someone please verify that I have the right hardware included for assembly of the clutch pedal assembly?:
- (2) long bolts stamped "CS 4.8" w/ no washers
- (1) medium bolt stamped "SC 4.8" w/ small washer
- (2) short bolts stamped "CHS 4.8", 1 w/ small washer and 1 w/ large washer

I just finished my install. That is what I got too so you should be good. I need to e-mail RR though... Now that the bracket is installed it did not make the pedal feel better, it is actually just good enough to work but feels like its about to snap again. If I tighten it any more its going to be in the engine bay....

OK! I just filed my complaint... check it out, this is what I wrote.

********I bought a used Maxda RX8 (2005 with about 60 thousand miles) with a manual transmission. After about 3 months of daily driving (no racing or hard shifting) my clutch pedal broke while approaching a red light. The bracket that holds the pedal in place broke due to its very thin metal design. Upon researching the issue online I have found that many RX-8 owners are having the same issue. I have installed a reinforced bracket at my own expense and still need to make some adjustments because it has unaligned the gears in the transmission.
If this break would have occurred at any other time I believe it could easily result in serious injury or death. I spend a lot of time on the highway getting to school and I believe that at 65 mph this break would have at least destroyed the transmission. This issue needs to be resolved and a recall must be implemented.*********

They should be sending me a check now, yeah? LoL

my clutch pedal snapped again :( and i reported with nhtsa for the second time, wtf is wrong with mazda?

Did you replace the first one with another without having the new one welded? If so then that is to be expected. They apparently have not done anything to correct the problem and not sure they will!

Now, take your third one to a welder and get it taken care of properly and you will not have this problem again.

clutch bracket.

race roots.

thats all i'll say.

:dunno:

^ Yep. Having Mazda replace the clutch pedal will only buy you more time, not resolve the root cause issue. Until they (if ever) come out with a more robust assembly a self-weld and/or bracket augmentation is the only way to go.

As of 1/2 an hr ago YES $%^&^&#$$%%^**!!!!!! FU*K FUC* F*CK !!!!! FU*ken Mazda Fuc*s !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

aw crap Brettus, e tu?
sorry to hear that.

I'm really pissed because I was in the middle of trying to fix an oil leak that is plaugeing me big time and this happens !!!
.
This is how i feel right now .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78b67l_yxUc

brettus: I am having that exact same feeling today. :banghead:

/\ damn - what is your problem ?

also what is latest thinking on how to fix this ?Would get it welded but the switch got broken as well by the pedal flopping around so need that f'n part as well
I can get a 2nd hand one down the road for $165 but they can't/wont get it out till Monday !!

Fu*k !!!!!

I'm posting this link back to page 10. I consider it one of the most important in this entire thread. It shows the welds of my bracket without the additional support bracket and Charles R. Hills with reinforcement that I took photos of. I'm confident either will work fine but the additional support really does help out with the stability of the clutch. I'm posting this link because I have had some questions about the welds and a refresher's not a bad idea.

Page 10 - Photos of welds

Also, a repost of the link to file a complaint would be very important also. Can someone else grab that one?

Bummer Brettus... sorry you are having problems.

EDIT:
Cool, I just checked and found the link at the bottom of that same page (10): NHTSA.DOT.GOV

Back in September, Race Roots posted that they're selling the bracket reinforcement for $100, but on their site is $135. Anyone know if they're still extending the lower price for RX8club members?

^ Just send em a PM

There has been a part number mod, even on S2 for RHD which are different to the US.

As of when I posted asking any RHD owners with this issue, I contacted a guy at Mazda Australia and he said they had not sold any and were not an issue, but would "keep and eye on it"..

Here is the # (Aluminum Pads) F157-41-300C (does both RHD series RX-8's)

I'll PM you later after I've drank my sorrows away, don't want to hijack this thread.

ugh, no bracket till monday?! wtf!
welding the piss out of it is your best bet to ensure this doesn't happen again but seeing as how yours broke, you'll need to get that piece first.

This is what happens when you have SO much horsepower that you have to slam the clutch pedal in for those 10 second quarter miles. ;)

Took it to my freindly sheetmetal guys and they'll have it done in a few hrs - phew .
Also - methinks most of you have been repairing this the wrong way (after following that link to pg 10). The plate at the bottom is NOT a structural part and welding the main bracket to it is pretty pointless IMO .

It's the main bracket that needs reinforcing . I'll post a pic of what my guys do later ....