My clutch started to squeak on Sunday. (63k mileage) I searched and found this post. I am thinking to take it off and have it welded by some local workshop. The problem I have now is that I can't take any of the bolts off! It is also very hard to do that under the wheel.

Maybe the tool I use is too small or too simple. I am wondering what tool you recommend to use. I would appreciate if someone can show me the pictures.

I laid on my back (on the floor mat) and just looked-up.
I found it easier to remove the foot rest to give my right arm more room.
Use a 12mm DEEP SOCKET and an extension to remove the nuts.
I used a swivel on the upper-left nut.

^ Agreed. I managed it with just a deep socket, no u joint or swivel. BUT a deep socket is pretty much necessary. Get a good shop light and just lay on your back to get the top bolt. I laid on my right side with my ass hanging out the car; laying over the door sill with the seat back to get the rest. I'm ambidextrous though.

BLUF: get a 12mm deep socket. The plastic nuts just hand turn off.

i bought my stock 04 used last august at 50k.. it broke around 56k

yep, lay on the floor mat to take it out. much easier that way (even tho its not very comfy)

Thanks! I got mine off today, finally. I am going to some welding shop tomorrow. :aroused:

Take the plastic switches and pads off. You don't want the heat to damage them.

Thanks for reminding me to take the switches and pads off.

I put welded clutch back on my car. Now I have a very stupid problem: I can't start the engine with clutch pressed... I checked it over and over again. I am sure that when I pressed the clutch all the way down, the switch was not pressed deep enough to let me start the engine. I am sure the switch is not broken because I could start the engine when I pressed the switch with my hand and turned the key.

I am wondering that maybe I should take the clutch off and put it on again.

You're doing it wrong.

either the welder weld it wrong. or you installed it wrong.

I might damaged the switch. Where can I buy one? :(

The problem is you do not have enough pressure on the switch when the clutch is depressed. You need to take some vice grips and bend the metal just a little to get contact. I can take some pics in a little while. Don't do anything until I get back to you. You should be fine. I helped someone over the phone take care of this problem. If you want I will talk you through it as well. But it would be good to document it here for others to see.

You can test this by depressing the switch by hand while starting the car just to show you that everything is OK. :)

I'll PM you my phone number and you call me about 10:00PM EST or later.

^ Yup I had the same problem. I scratched my head for about five minutes, pushed the sensor in with my hand and started the car like that in neutral. I didn't get it. But I just pulled the metal tab a little closer and everything is 100%.

I don't know what causes the tab to be too far away after strengthening welds, but whatever.

Using your images, I'll try to explain what you need to do. It's really simple.

The black metal tab that holds the green pad needs to be bent toward the switch enough that when the clutch is depressed, the little notch on the neck of the white switch button disappears into the switch. That's all you need to do. A pair of vice grips should do the trick, without taking off the clutch peddle.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1245501764

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...&d=12455020561

Thanks SilverEIGHT!! It works!! Oh Yeah! :)


But why do I need to bend the metal after welding the clutch? Anyway, it works!!

I don't have an explanation. I do know that it happens repeatedly though. Not with everyone. Glad I could help you. Congrats being back up and running.

^ I think what might be the cause (it happened to me) is that if you do a good job welding, you might reinforce the metal so much that it sits closer to the firewall and flexes less than it used to. With the less flex, it might not be "calibrated" right to get the sensor to notch depth, if that makes sense?

Help needed
 

Hey guys. Newbie to the site here.
So even after reading the fairly numerous things wrong going on with this car, I still decided I had to have one. Stupid idea or not. I love the look and feel and have driven RX-7's for the past 20 years (I am almost 49). I purchased a red , 2004 GT with 37,000 miles, MT, red/black leather, etc. So I knew before I got the car that I should plan on pre-mixing. Never done it before but sounded easy enough, a really good idea considering the flawed rotor design, and well worth the time and little bit of trouble. The previous owner just had a new battery put in, but don't know if it is an exact factory replacement or an upgrade. It cranks and always starts but averages between 2-3 seconds to 5-6 seconds before it kicks over. I can't imagine this when cold weather gets here. It would have to make this even worse. I am having my Mazda tech look it over this week, especially the starting to see what he thinks. He really does know his way around a rotary. Any suggestions to help the starting situation from you guys? Also, and especially, here's the biggest concern I have. I have been reading this forum about the clutch bracket breaking and would really like it taken care of. Sounds like the Mazsport brackets are a fix? Well guys, even though I have driven rotaries for a long while I am not much of a mechanic. I wouldn't have the know how, ability, or anything else to install these brackets. Yes, it's unfortunate, but my Mazda dealership has made LOTS of money off me on my past RX-7's. So, that being said, is there anyone you know of in Louisville, KY or anywhere in my surrounding area who could help me out? That sure would be great. I've got so many questions about different things I've read on here including upgrading the coils? Upgrading the plugs? The previous owner has had the recalls done. Does that mean she had upgraded plugs installed? Like I said, many questions. I always feel alone around here in being able to have questions answered or things done.
Sorry to be so long winded but you guys seem great, and have already helped me learn alot about the car. Just need to figure out how to get it done.
Thanks a bunch.
David

^I think the long starting period is pretty common. It helps when your plugs are clean, so I clean mine every five thousand miles. Make sure you get the reflash and update on the ECU. But regardless, mine starts in about four seconds usually.

Back to the real deal at hand; the bracket. Honestly just get it welded. It'll be a GREAT CHEAP fix.

took me and noodleboy 4 hours to fit the damn clutch bracket on last night... that shit was a bitch putting it back, but i was so glad i did it when i did because that shit was about to break completely.

ha ha ha.... what was the problem getting it back on? It really shouldn't be that hard?

the holes weren't lining up properly.. we tried jamming it back in, but just ended up drilling the holes bigger and it fit like a glove. no problems any more... but now my fawk'n brake light switch snapped off...... haha what are the chances

dude? It should've popped on and off? I don't get why you had to drill out the holes. That blows my mind. You must have been doing SOMETHING wrong!?

Sucks on the switch. Should be easy enough to replace through the garage though.

Edited, see below

Oh damn, I hate that! So, you had a warranty replacement and she popped after 14,545 mi. That's freaking ridiculous! But frankly, I'm surprised you didn't reinforce it, knowing all we have discussed in this thread. You've been part of this for a long time. Will they cover it again? What do you intend to do with it, get it welded and repair or replace?

Did anyone every comment on the 09, if it has been re-designed?

Okay, I guess I better get off my ass and get that Mazsport bracket on that has been collecting dust in my garage!!!!!! :yesnod:

edited, see below

one of the welds on the pedal already broke so the thin metal was pretty flexed which didnt line up properly with the cluth pedal bracket holes. when i installed my bracket my welds were fine so they lined up properly but it took me a bit to get it in due to being uncomfortable and the cylinder kept gettin pushed back into the engine bay lol.

BTW dont know if you guys know about this but if your gray stick thingy isnt getting pressed down all the way then you can give it a good tug and itll extend out more closer to the green tab thingy.

^Well that makes sense.

Haha and nice directions on the thingys. Haha.

took the bracket out before, everything is holding BUT there are some signs of blending/flexing.

but it shouldn't cause the problem Im getting.

need to check the parts ... one part at a time ... grrrrr ....

whats up with your pedal? im out of the loop. and im sleepy and i dont wanna read lol.

Actually that switch needs to *learn* the clutch pedal's travel.

Its very simple.

Remove the switch, grab the plunger with your fingers, pull it firmly outwards (it seems like itll break, but it wont) you'll hear/feel a few clicks from the switch housing. Now reinstall it, move the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal will setup the switch properly.

Have to do this at the dealer on every install.

kevin.

Hey, thanks! That is much appreciated.

Wow, agreed. Interesting information Kevin.

^see... I read the shop manual and didn't pick that up. That's a simple explanation that suddenly makes a LOT of sense.

I don't know if thats *in* the shop manual, it should be, but i cant guarantee it, just something I've picked up along the way. Works on most manual mazdas, gotta do it on speed6's a lot as well.

Glad that random bit of knowledge i had floating was useful lol, i thought it was common knowledge until i read through this :)

kevin.

what Teknics said was exactly what i was trying to tell you guys. i got it from him. but hes better at explaing it than me and my "thingy" talk lol

When driving home last week I heard a snap from my clutch peddle and it has been squeaking for a the past month. I babied it the last few blocks home. I looked under and didn't notice anything strange but I did notice a lot more flex (side to side) in my pedal. Maybe I'm just lucky it still works? No more squeak though.

Car has 80k on it. does the dealership replace/fix this problem for free since it is a factory defect?

Nope! You are on your own. Best get it fixed ASAP.

... your user name is freaking weird!

Mine just snapped on the hwy at speed while on my way to transformers. I limped to the theater and had to have her towed home. Sucked and now I need to figure a fix before monday.

http://www.rotary4life.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265

Found this while googling cheaper solutions. Hopefully this helps anyone who needs a solution that isn't going to break the bank in our rough economy.

I had the dealer replace mine few months ago, was squeaking bad, at first all they changed was the clutch switch, but the squeaking sound never went away, so took it to another dealer and showed them, it was even vibrating when you depressed the pedal, but the dealer replaced the the whole clutch pedal assembly.

ooop! mine just snapped today at my buddies. there goes my ap exhaust :(

AWESOME! I just got my email from the DOT in response to my filing a claim on Mazda about the clutch pedal issue and I have responded. It's taken them quite a while but at least it is in progress. They are very aware of this thread and the issue. I love it.

Everyone PLEASE go file a claim to drive this point home.

where do we file a claim?

nyc youve seen my thread ;), my pics are in there

nycgps posted the link some where back in this thread, can't seem to find the direct link. But if you go to this site, you can dig around and find it: http://nhtsa.gov/

Actually it wasn't a "claim" I filed, it was a report. Sorry about that.

Yeah, I just got my e-mail from them also and replied.

Dozer, here is the address that is in my e-mail.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

ill get on it when i get home

Yep

Seems like they're seriously looking into this issue.

I mean come on, Mazda. This is a SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE !

I took mine out and fix it a bit ... It didnt break but u can see something has bent around the bolt area ... not good :(

For some time now, I've been concerned about this clutch bracket. I've had difficulty in visualizing how it works from the pictures, so I finally had a look at it last night. I saw things quite a bit differently.

These spot welds are not intended to hold this bracket together. They are simply there as a tack to hold the back piece to the front for assembly. In fact you can cut these welds off and throw the back piece away. Replace it with two long bushings for the proper separation to the firewall. Bolt everything back up properly and you shouldn't notice much effect of the change.

On pressing the pedal, the primary force tries to push the main part of the bracket towards the driver. This is resisted in two ways. The least desirable way is by the two nuts and bolts at the firewall. This puts stress in the member in that area which can cause it to tear in some cases. If this is the main area where the forces are being resisted, then you might feel some slopiness, or hear creaking or squeaking as things move. I wouldn't be surprised if the weld could initiate a fracture through material embrittlement.

The better way to hold everything together is with that third bolt (See #10 in this thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-clutch-pedal-bracket-removal-fix-170387/page2/). If this bolt is properly tightened, it prevents movement of the assembly, and there will be no significant stress in the region of the firewall bolts (although these bolts must also be tight to ensure there is no gap at the firewall. This captures the whole assembly between the firewall and dash structures so it cannot move. If it cannot move, it cannot apply stress to the nut/bolt area at the firewall.

So make sure your bolts are tight. If you want added insurance, have a look at that picture #10 again. See that hole in the dash structure to the left of the arrow just behind the bracket? Force a large screw in there to help keep the bracket from moving back (and maybe put a bit of compressive load on it by forcing it forward with a big enough screw). Loosen the bolt first.