cjkim

Sigh, I seriously can't figure this out...

My clutch master was leaking so I bought a used one from one of the members.

Installed it, everything looked fine, except I can't bleed the freaking line!!...

I have a speedbleeder on the bleeder behind the oil filter for clutch master...

So this is what I did...
Replace stock bleeder with speed bleeder
Bleed fluid out (stupid mistake, should've just left the fluid in, so much air in the lines now)
Swapped out the master cylinder
Topped off reservoir, opened up bleeder... pumped the clutch...
I can see it trying to bleed, as very little fluid is being moved when pumping the clutch...

But the damn thing won't bleed! reservoir levels don't move (or barely do)

Any ideas?? I'm stuck and I would hate to get it towed to a mechanic for this...

I've asked the seller if the master cylinder was in working condition and he says it was fine when he drove it.. so I dunno. Could it be a faulty master?
Is there such thing as airlocking the lines? HELP!!

If anybody in the San Diego area wants to take a look I'd appreciate it mucho.... beer? +more beer

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

yeah - it's a bitch to bleed the clutch .
You have to be very carefull not to suck in air on the reverse pedal stroke and I don't think speed bleeders work well on clutch bleeding.
Think you need someone to help with this rather than the speed bleeder idea .

Ju7st to clarify are you talking about the slave cylinder on the gearbox or the brake master cylinder that feeds oil to the clutch lines ?

cjkim

Not sure what you mean.. are you talking about which one was replaced?
The slave cylinder wasn't touched. only the master cylinder located next to the brake master cylinder (shares reservoirs)

Any reason why speedbleeders aren't a good idea?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I'm not 100% sure on this but i think speed bleeders work well on brakes where you have a solid object (IE brake disc ) resisting the motion . With the clutch you have a spring loaded mechanism that may not allow enough pressure to build up in the lines to make the bleeders work properly .
What I do know is that it is a bitch and best done with two people ....

cjkim

Any tips on the two people method? I can get my girlfriend to help -_-

is it just, close valve... pump 5-10 times... open valve.. repeat?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I would get her to pump 5-10 times then hold it in does that sound dirty ?

Then you open and close the bleed nipple . Now you may have to get her to pull the pedal slowly off the floor .
Repeat several times .

There is probably a better way so i'm hoping someone will chime in here with one .....

Damiananey

Did you ever figure this out? I'm having a bleeding issue as well. My bleeder valve doesn't push barely anything out of the line and the reservoir doesn't appear to move when trying to bleed. Thank you

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

You need to get a little positive pressure into the reservoir . I've managed to get it flowing with someone pumping the pedal while holding my hand over the reservoir and blowing a little compressed air through . Very mickey mouse way to do it ...but it worked .

scottfetsh

Open the leeder line and wait for fluid to drip then firmly hold you finger over the bleeder and slowly pump the peddle by hand. fluid should push past you r finger if it wont come your rod to the master may be set tool long and won't let fluid into the resivor

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Not likely, it’s a bit silly even, but then you have an early 4AT trans and not a manual trans.