This has been going on for maybe lets say a week long because it doesn't seem to happen everyday.

In the beginning all that would happen is the radio/ CD player would cut off and on, the display it would restart just like when you first start up the car and shows "mazda RX8" then the song would just pick up where it left off... no biggie... This has happened 2 or 3 times.

Just today as I was backing into a parking space I felt the steering wheel intermittently become stiff and loose as I was turning... I look at my cluster and all the lights are on as if you are just up starting the car then they turned off as they normally would in the start up sequence.

Before I get all the way into the space the car stalls out, I go to start it back up... and fires back up just fine but the DSC light is on as if the negative cable to the battery was taken off resetting the ecu. So I turn the steering wheel all the way in both directions to turn off the traction control light at next start up.

Even though it seems like the cars ecu was reset Ive still got all my radio stations and correct time. Ive checked the battery (2 year old optima red top) and terminals and they all check out ok. I also have the Flex innovations grounding kit installed.

Car starts up fine hot or cold. approx 30k on reman motor. I do have a CEL but thats likely to my BHR midpipe... it goes aways after a while and comes back when it wants to...

Any ideas?

 

Evening bump..

 

I'm also having this exact same problem it just started doing this last night. I flashed my high beams to let a car through and the radio reset and earlier today when I was at idle I turned the steering wheel and it stalled. I want to say its the battery but I don't know if the alternator is at fault

 

ALWAYS, every time, it's corroded battery connections.

Disconnect the negative, then the positive.
Clean both posts and both clamps completely. Baking soda and water work, as does Coca-Cola and a number of other acidic products.
Reconnect the positive then the negative. When you reconnect, be sure to do it carefully, wiggling and twisting the clamp on the post as you slowly tighten to be sure that the clamp seats on the post as firmly and completely as possible.


Cause:
Battery posts attract corrosion over time, and this corrosion occurs largely between the post and the clamp, degrading the post more than the clamp, but slowly removing material between the two until you have trouble maintaining the needed current flow to and from the battery. When this happens, the major electrical stuff tends to be impacted first, with the power steering usually being related. Either power steering cuts out when steering at low speed, or power steering at low speed draws too much power off of other components causing them to shut off briefly. Low speed steering is the highest draw you can get on the battery outside of the cranking to start (where nothing else is using power).

The negative side is the biggest offender, but it happens to the positive side too.

 

Yes, also the battery clamp(s) may loose it's shape and wiggles out of place as you drive and hit bumps. That was one of the problem I had causing my EPS to not work properly.

 

Cool ill check those out. Thanks