awd86

My battery is charged, my contacts are clean...I have no power to the car (remote key, dash lights, headhlights, etc. ) Its been < 20 deg F for over a week, but why should that hurt?

So, I've been searching and searching and I can't find a thread with this. 3 days ago my car started fine, but I only moved it up the driveway out of the snowplow's way. I let it run about 5 minutes to prevent flooding, and turned it off (yes, my lights were off too). Now nothing. I've never actually used the key to open the door before...any ideas?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

if the battery is charged ( check it ) then your problem is a connection between the battery and the electrical system...

Most likely the 120amp main fuse......

I would check the battery voltage first though...it is the most likely problem

Mazurfer

Hmmmmmmm, say your battery is good eh?
How do you know?
Did you measure it?
This sounds an awful lot like the ole trunk light draining the battery!

heyarnold69

iTrader: (1)

main fuse in engine bay next to air intake box. 120 amp... could also be inside // room fuse // finally check grounds

awd86

I'll get right out and check that fuse. There's a main fuse on my bike, so I thought it might be something like that. Its so cold, all the little plastic hinges keep braking on me...

I'm saying that the battery is charged because I pulled it out and but it on my battery charger, and it said it was already fully charged. My multimeter is in storage with the moving company...so I'm going to have to do without it for now. I'll go check that fuse, hope thats it.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Even though your battery charger is reporting the battery being charged, still might be a good idea to run it up to Autozone so they can test it... its free!

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Yes...a battery can test "good" by having over 12v...however...a battery can still be bad under load. Autozone and the like will put a load on your battery and test the voltage then and let you know. If it is fully charged then it should only take a couple minutes to find out if it is bad or not.

awd86

So, I checked the 120amp fuse (the cover shattered when i tried to pull it, but the fuse is intact). I also checked the 60 amp fuse on the pos. post connection, its fine. Does that one go to the radio or something? (the plastic spring clip on that shattered, and also the pos. post cover hinge).

So I pulled the post connectors, polished everything with steel wool, reconnected...still nothing.

my awesome town doesn't have an autozone, advanced, o'whatever or anything....ugh. Also, everything plastic is still shattering.
About 2 months ago my motorcycle ate a couple batteries because the rectifier was bad, so I'm pretty familiar with swan song of a battery...without my multimeter I don't have any way to check for a voltage drop under load. Also, my car isn't exerting any load.

I feel like I'm missing something obvious...

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Try your other key. I don't know if the radio will even come on if it doesn't detect the right key and if your remote isn't lighting up when you try and unlock the doors that might do it.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

the 60A near the battery is for the power steering (its says EPS, which stands for Electric Power Steering).
Press the brake pedal and see if the lights come on... that'll tell you if you have ANY voltage from the battery.
You don't need a key in the ignition for that.

Mazurfer

I believe he eluded to the headlights don't work and you don't need the key in for that............if I'm not mistaken.
We do really need him to try the headlights without the key if he hasn't.
Here's a better one....................does your horn work.......without the key?
Do you brake lights work without the key?

Would be a lot easier if his meter wasn't in storage!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I've never been a believer in "multiple spontaneous problems" theory in automobile repair

The battery is the most likely thing to spontaneously fail....much more likely than any other problem...unless you shorted something major doing something.....(you would have noticed )

The next problem could be ECU logic...the damn theft protection system can fail spontaneously for no reason...but you will have power to lights and radio etc....

If your battery is over 3 years old..buy a new one.....

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Try it

Mazurfer

I meant him Jon.....I know they do!

Seems like we are reading the same threads again today!

Did you see my RB oil temp adapter install I completed today?
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/rb-oil-temp-pressure-adapter-installed-188651/

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Yes I did... looks pretty good.
I have the same style oil spacer/adapter, but I got the one from ProSport.
Still have to buy a new pressure sender unit before I actually install in.
My car has the ricer look having a lotek pod with gauges and none of the sensors installed

Mazurfer

Yeah, I'm going to have the pressure sensor installed fairly soon myself, then I need to hit up Dannobre and see if he wants to trade a PLX DM100(with OLED display) and all the trimmings for just one of his PLX temp sensor boxes. You listening Dan? I have an extra DM100!!!!!
That way, I can get rid of the Nordskog gauge and have everything displayed on the PLX.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I already have 3 And 8 sensor packs...I do have a spare air temp sensor box......But I got that cause the actual sensor was way cheaper like that than buying just the sensor itself

Mazurfer

Are all of these in the same car? Where the hell did you mount them all?

Guess I will eventually do something with this other DM100(maybe put it in daughters 3, but she already has my old Scangauge). I'll eventually buy the Temp Sensor module I suppose and cough up the $89.00..........what the hell. Wish they had a temp and pressure in the same module though.

Sorry for the threadjack...............no back to our regulary schedule programming!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Glove box

Mazurfer

Damn!

I might be headed that same direction!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

There is room for a lot of stuff under the top panel in the dash too...where the OEM NAV stuff would normally be

awd86

Ha, jacked. Turns out it was the battery after all! yall win. I apparently ran it down while letting the car run (to prevent flooding) and the battery actually froze. Its been around 0 at nights here. The battery tender didn't know anything was wrong for some reason (yeah, I didn't have it plugged in...it was only sitting for a couple days)

So, if you have a tender, might as well just plug it in! Maybe i'll put some volt. gauges in the glovebox

awd86

Sweet! car starts right up!

CR@P! car floods right out ;(

At least there are pleanty of thread on DIY for flooding. Unfortunately I have to report back in tomorrow and don't have a car. Thanks for the help, though

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Seriously, follow this deflooding: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=Deflood+DIY

You will get started again just fine. Works like a charm.

fireside

i have a similar problem in this thread, I have a Ford Escape 2009 XLT. The car engine starts and running.. however, the electrical system is down.. no power at all.. like the dashboard lights are off, no talilights, no breaklights, no headlights, no indoor lights, no signal lights, even the remote is not working, cd stereo is off, but the heater, wipers (front and rear) power seat are working.. any solution to this please??? this is my first time.. THank you all..