Haven't started the car today, but just an hour ago it would not start.

It doesn't crank at all. All the lights, guages, and headlights are working good.

~27k on the odo, spark plug wires and trailing plugs were replaced when the car was taken in for other problems along with misfiring. I'm also on original coils just in case anyone wants to know.

I cleaned off both terminals, reset the ecu (brake pedal), and even tried jump-starting it.


gave up for the night, but tomorrow morning i wanna put it on jackstands to have a look around the starter and whatever else anyone may suggest me to look at since it's too dark right now.

any info will be appreciated.

btw, also tried looping the neutral safety switch, no dice.

 

If it's not cranking at all, the ignition system has nothing to do with it.

If the lights are bright, and jumping doesn't help, it's not the battery or terminals.

Do you hear the solenoid click when you try to crank? If not, then start tracing the circuit back from the solenoid through the relay (if the 8 has one) and the ignition switch. Since you've looped the neutral switch (and thus know where it is), check whether there's a voltage on those connectors when you try to crank.

You can see if the starter is OK by jumping from the battery to the solenoid.

Maybe the first step should be to check the fuses...don't know if there's one on the starter relay circuit, but it wouldn't surprise me if there is.

Ken

 

Try to push start it. I had a similar problem and it turned on when i push started it. Later it turned out that something was wrong with the starter. Took the starter off, inspected it, seemed nothing was wrong so I put it back in and it was fine ever since, must of been a bad connection or something. But it'll start when you push start it if its not the engine.

 

^well i've read not to push start due to emissions system, so i'll leave that to my last resort.

I don't believe I hear the clicking, the only thing clicking is coming from the fuse box (engine bay), and i believe it's from the fuel getting ready for start (i'm bad with putting stuff into words, sorry). i checked some fuses but they seem fine.

i'll have to keep checking tomorrow. thanks for the input guys, and any more than may come.

 

ahhhhhhh,

was that the phone call i missed??? i have a new #.

clutch switch? likely..

beers

 

yezzzirrrr, that was me.

clutch switch, hm?

 

could be. but if under warranty.. let them figure it out..

btw, will be in town the 15th. but i think mexico might be involved..

pm me for my new #. sorry i missed your call.

beers

 

i don't mazda will even wanna accept my car anymore after what i put them through last time.

long story short, i talked my way out of an $1800 bill.

if no dice tomorrow, that will be my only choice i guess.

pm sent.

 

did not see that story.. would love to hear it..

beers

 

bump for any more advice.

 

Your starter solenoid is kaput. If you're getting juice at the terminal and nothing happens, that's it.

Ken

 

could be...ignition switch/Keyless ign problem, wiring harness problem, relay problem, fuse, starter/solenoid, battery, ECU......kinda difficult to diagnose on here.

I would try and jump the starter first...if it works you can go back to the wiring...

If it will push/pull start and run..it isn't likely the ECU....

Key/Ign problem will be harder to check out...

relays and fuses are an easy check....so is the wiring if you have a continuity tester or a DMM

 

I would check the starter relay in the main fuse box under the hood

 

checked the fuse box in the engine bay, the starter is turning (screwdriver deal).

i'm gonna thoroughly clean the batter.

 

So it's turning when you jump the solenoid with a screwdriver? But not when you turn the key?

Good luck checking the wiring, relay, fuses, etc. Check for voltage at the neutral switch (or clutch switch if MT) that you jumpered. Then you'll at least know which side of that point has the trouble.

Ken

 

If its turning then you might want to check the brushes. I've been bitten in the *** many times working with motors on SMT equipment just to find out that the brushes were worn or the commutator just needed cleaned. Minimum brush length is 7mm for an MT and 12mm for an AT (standard brush size is 12.3 on a MT and 17.5 for an AT).
I personally have never checked the brushes on my 8 to know how quickly they wear. But it something else to consider and quick to check.

 

right on.

thanks man, i'll give that a go when i open her up tomorrow. borrowing a truck for now.

 

If they relay is turning on, then the battery shouldn't be your problem.

 

that's what i'm thinking.

 

Don't know if you saw my other post (#16) since we were typing at the same time, but the brushes are something else to consider.

 

gah. got it. blown fuse.

thanks guys.

 

Haven't had it on this car yet, but have had it on other cars.......I always get worried when I blow a fuse because it usually means trouble ahead. Notice I said "usually". Sometime fuses will blow due to a sudden spike of current when something is turned on and sometimes it's because something is drawing too much current over a length of time.

Hopefully you just popped it and you'll never see it again.

 

yeah, i'm hoping it was just a quick pop and not a sign for the future.

 

Disregard, it was a loose/corroded battery connection. Thanks though!


Can you tell me which fuse? My car is doing this now, the wife is having problems with it and I am deployed to Iraq so I can't help much.

Thanks for any help you can give

 

There is an ACC 30A fuse which goes to the starter relay and then there is a IG Key 15A fuse for the ignition. Not sure which one he had blow, but I would say it was the ACC (but you could always check both to see which is blown).
Your owner's manual shows the location of each fuse starting on page 8-36.