Agent008

I know there has been some discussion on this topic. The consensus seems to be that the engine is screwed when this type of problem occurs.

For a bit of history.. I have had several instances in the last several years where I have major power loss on hot days, in stop-and-go traffic with the A/C on. Never able to get the problem to happen when at the dealership. Had 3 compression tests over the years and the numbers are "OK", but not great, here is the latest one from Oct 2011 (at the time the dealer asked Mazda to replace the engine but Mazda said replace the coils first).

6.2/6.6/.6.3 -- 6.5/6.8/6/7 -- At 272RPM

For the last 3 months I am unable to start the car when the engine is warm. It turns over fine but no sign of life at all until maybe 5-10min and 5-10 attempts to start. Once I do get it going again it runs just fine.

Just want to be as informed as possible before my next trip to the dealer. Is the warm start problem just another sign that the engine is on it's last legs?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Those scores were nearly failing when they were taken. They are just likely across the fail line now.

I would theorize that one of your front apex seals is cracked. Just a guess, but you have 1 high face and 2 low faces that are significantly lower. Wear is typically more even, 1 seal damaged differently would cause a score split like that.

Agent008

The thing I don't get is this. If gas is flowing during the "warm start" problem, then why does the engine not flood and refuse to start from then on, until the engine is flushed?

RIWWP, thanks for the reply, I was thinking down the same lines. It made no since to me that coils would make and difference given that coils don't effect a compression test and the dealer asked Mazda to approve an engine replacement based on the compression test alone.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The traditional rotary flood is from the much higher fuel injection when cold, plus that the charge condenses on the internal surfaces much easier. Much less fuel is injected when the engine is hot, and it stays an atomized gaseous substance for far longer, long enough that it gets pushed out of the housing easily enough.

You can still flood it, but the circumstances aren't as much of a problem under those conditions.

wiesel42

I took my 8 in the other week for an oil change and had them do a compression test before the extended warranty was up. My numbers all came back in the high 7s. The tech told me that when an engine scored in the 6s it was time to replace the engine. So you might wanna argue especially if your still in your warranty period.

Agent008

High 7s... I don't have data from my first test (maybe from 2006), they didn't seem keen on giving me any documentation back then, but I don't recall ever seeing anything in the 7s. I guess my engine has been limping ever since the first power loss problem. Mine is a early 2004 so I guess the insufficient oil injunction problem which caused that major recall in (2006?) had damaged my engine but not enough to be to detected.

wiesel42

I just got my paper work back out and my numbers are:
Rotor #1 7.2 7.8 7.5
Rotor#2 7.0 7.5 7.7

No RPM was listed but they did recommend that i have the battery replaced which I let them do because it was a good deal. I have not had any problems with my car starting hot or cold. My car was built in 11/2004.

Agent008

Well, as expected my new compression tests shows 5's and 4's. Dealer says the engine needs replacing. Since I am 1 year post warranty there is not much (if any) hope of doing this under warranty.

Only 103k-km. I guess this is what you get for buying a car that is a 100% new design (2004).

Thing is, I am convinced that my issues were caused by the low oil injunction problem early on before the massive recall. I have had extremely intermittent power loss problems on hot days ever since 2005.

Any point in writing to Mazda Canada?

ShinkaEvo

iTrader: (3)

There's really not much you can do once it's out of warranty for that long...