dsire4u

iTrader: (5)

hello.
i was installing my eibach springs.
then it was time for me to remove the endlink.
i was unscrewing then all the sudden the nut stopped then it got stuck cuz of the rust.
so i sprayed it with 5w40, however still the nut is stuck in the middle.
i can't tighten it back nor i can't unscrew it.
i try for a long time and then gave up.
now the nut is stuck there not moving.
also i screwed up where the hex ranch goes in, so my hex ranch just spins now.

how should i remove it?
is it dangerous to drive around like that?
plz help

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

There is an allen key slot on the end of the bolt...hold it with an allen key and turn the nut with a wrench...

Often an impact gun will work as well....


It won't hurt anything short term..but it will rattle bad

dsire4u

iTrader: (5)

um,,,
that's what i did.
i have a common sense you know.
i tried tried tried tried tried tried.
the nut is just stuck.
and where the allen key goes in it's screwed now.
allen key just slips now.
plz help T_T

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I inserted an L-shape 5mm allen key and turned the nut until the allen's rotational travel was obstructed by the frame (meaning it wouldn't turn anymore).
It was easier to do it this way instead of holding the allen by hand.
I then used a breaker bar to loosen the nut.
You can also heat it with a torch and it should spin easier, but I didn't have to do it with mine.

dsire4u

iTrader: (5)

tried every s**t.
still not working lol
just thinking of cutting it off and get a new endlink.
haven't decide between oem or aftermarket.
but adjustable endlink is too expensive.
any suggestion??
also is it safe to drive around when one side of the endlink is not fully tightened? [side that connects to the sway bar, the other side is fully tighened]
thx

dwdgsi04

It isn't too dangerous, per se, to drive like that. But it will have a negative effect the way the car handles in the corners. You will also have a sporadic clunking noise until it gets fixed. I believe the only thing that will potentially get damaged is the endlink itself, which is already broken at this point. If the hex wrench hole is stripped, you may end up having to cut it off at the bolt. How to do that, I'm not sure...remove the sway bar perhaps...?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Perfectly fine.
I drove for a LONG time with my driver's side end-link broken into two pieces.
Not sure when it happened, but the rustic color inside the broken part of the end-link tells me that it was that way for awhile.
Never noticed it during normal everyday driving/cornering.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like it's time to cut it off and replace it.
Get a new one first before you remove the old one.

dsire4u

iTrader: (5)

any suggestion which endlink i should get??
should i just get a oem endlink?
or rb endlink?
ap adjustable endlink is too expensive for me.
what should i get??

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

If you are staying with stock or slightly stiffer bars...stay with stock

Heavier bars...and the stock ones won't last long....

If you buy an adjustable bar..or have a large suspension drop...the adjustables are worth the money

DY8

To remove the endlink you can either

a) get a hacksaw in the gap between the nut and the rollbar
b) angle-grind the bugger (but be careful of brakelines etc)
c) use a nut splitter

I had to angle grind mine off last week for the second time as the link decided to snap

pgrothe

OEM Endlinks are really cheap, I think it's something like 30$. Just go buy two of them, then you will have a spare just in case.
I have the AP ones, they are really expensives but the good thing is that the nuts and allen hole is a lot more bigger so there is less chance that I will screw them again (I did the same mistake as you did).

Good luck

416to212

I've always had beefs about Mazda endlinks. They are prone to rusting and usually are impossible to remove after 4 winter seasons of salt.

I have always used a hacksaw to remove endlinks. When you install the new OEM ones I recommend that you put some antiseize on the threads and coat the Hex indent with come heavy grease to prevent corrosion just incase you want to remove them later on down the load.

savedsol

You can still salvage them - trust me. Also, according to Team RX-8 the OEs are just fine even for heavy/stiff bars.

To remove a rusted one you'll need a pair of skinny vise grips, needle nose type or curved. On the side of the sway bar opposite the rusted stuck nut is a washer looking thing (unofficial name). Grab it to the high heavens of vise grip clamping force (meaning it's going to take two hands to lock that vise grip) and then use a socket with a long breaker bar to get the nut off. Repeat procedure to put nut back on.

dsire4u

iTrader: (5)

kkk i guess i ain't the only one who is having same problem.
ya, rust sucks

atl8

iTrader: (1)

I've had the exact same issue as the OP with not being able to get the endlink off. Like others have suggested I took a hacksaw to it to remove it.

And if you decide to go with OEM replacement, but sure it's one of the updated ones from the TSB. All of of the stock ones through August 2008 are prone to breakage, in fact one of mine is clunking from this right now. I'm getting the RB endlinks to replace them with, but like Team said, it doesn't make alot of sense that they made theirs bigger so that you have to drill the swaybar/control arm to install them.

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...5-08-1948a.pdf

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Even better, before you start, use a wire brush on the threads and a liberal spray of lubricant.