Alright I could probably find that. Ill probably do an oil change this afternoon and ill do the seafoam tomorrow. Then ill see how that does. If it doesn't fix anything then Ill go fill it up with some 93 and run it. I just hope Its an easy fix.

 

I can post something later or you can PM Jon316G

 

Ok that would be appiciated man.

 

Did a seafoam search... There's a DIY...
You can get the spray or use the liquid with the modified procedure
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...hlight=seafoam

 

There's also a video made by a friend of mine, bad english but it's fairly good overall: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETYmh...layer_embedded

it's about Steam cleaning, not seafoam

 

ok. i did the seafoam process and nothing changed. but i can deffinatly say that my auto tech teacher pulled in my driveway tellin me i had a cracked head. haha.so im lettin the engine cool off now and then do an oil change. since its low on oil and if the oil rings are bad then im guessing that when i top it off it will stop? hopefully?

 

Well things did change inside the engine....

You'll probably just have to burn off that tank of gas and see if the oil is coming from there.
Also make sure to check and clean out the intake accordion tube. If there's oil there then also clean the throttle body, MAF and IAT sensors.
If your compression is good (usually hard starting and bad idle are compression or ignition related) and everything is clean then maybe ignore the blue smoke?

 

You can have good compression and still have oil control ring failure leaking in smoke. In fact, having good compression makes it pull more oil in faster under "vacuum", normally in-gear off throttle situations where there is alot of vacuum being generated for a lengthened period of time.

If he can cleanly rule out the gas and the intake, then his best bet is to take it to a dealer for them to diagnose it as failing oil control ring. Whether or not his dealer does depends on how much they know about rotaries. If he has options, his chances are much much better.

 

Well when I took the airbox off for that connecter on the bottome side it did have oil in that flexable intake pipe. I didn't clean it out bit ill be sure to take it off and clean that and the throttle body. Gas tank is just about empty ill fill it up asap and see what that does. After the oil was changed it didn't smoke as bad but there was still enough to be concerned. But it only smoke when I drove it around the yard back to the front of the house. But when I put gas in it then if it still does it ill know its the IMF because of the oil in the accordion pipe. Now what causes that? The oil in the accordion pipe I mean.

 

Overfilling the oil is the most likely scenerio to your latest question.
Either that or you could be pouring it in too quickly and it's getting into that hose that runs off the filler neck?

Are you filling it due to what you think it takes or by using the dip stick as you should be doing?

A lot of us run catch cans(do a search) to prevent oil from ever getting there which will eventually cause MAF, throttle body, and other issues.

 

No I put in 4 quarts then ran it enough to back it out of the garage, then checked it and had to add another 1/2 quart. What would a good oil catch run me do you suppose?

 

Think you need to figure out whether you got bad oil control rings first.
There's a couple of catch can threads and you could even make your own, but first things first!

 

So eliminate the gas tank oil suggestion and then eliminate the oil in intake and if it still smokes then the dealer diagnoses it to be the rings then that's most likely my problem. Ok, then if its that severe, what do I do?

 

IF it is oil control rings, you are still under warranty on the engine, so it should be an engine replacement. You are past the powertrain warranty, so it won't be completely free, you will have to pay for stuff like fluids and gaskets and stuff that can't be re-used but aren't part of the engine core itself. Expect $100-$500, how much you get charged depends on the dealer really. They aren't consistent in what one makes you pay for vs the next.

 

Well that's better than however much a new engine costs. But I see where a lot of people talk down about new engines and they have a lot of problems with them. Is that always the case?

 

You don't need an oil catch can.
Just disconnect the line at the filler neck. put a filter on it from Auto parts store and cap off the intake.

Then take off the intake tube clean it withengine cleaner and a garden hose.
let dry.
Clean MAF.

Reclean the MAF in two weaks.

 

No, most of the new engine issues in the past were because Mazda's Quality Control at the re manufacture facility was worse than the production line. Much much less a problem now. Now, usually the only issues from a replacement engine is if the dealer screws up. Like one dealer reusing the old fuel line, it pops off during the shakedown drive and burns the 8 to the ground. Or the other one not recognizing that a failing fuel pump caused a lean spike that destroyed the engine, and when they put in the new engine, the same old fuel pump destroyed that one within 2 miles too. etc...

The replacement engines themselves seem to be better quality than the factory ones were, plus the flash for oil injection is much improved over what it was in 2004 and 2005, so you don't have an engine that spent much of it's life, and all of it's break in period, not getting enough oil.

 

You added 4 quarts...... (car needs 3.7), then added another 1/2 quart?

You overfilled it, problem solved.

 

Not quite that easy. You can get more than 3.7 quarts out of the 8 in several ways. Total system capacity is ~6 quarts?

 

No I changed the oil and that's when it was full on the dip stick. It was smoking before the oil change. But it seems the more and more I do to the car the better it runs. But I mean I can drain the oil. I've just seen people talk about 4.2 pints and 3.7 and a couple different. Ill run it and check it again later. Thanks for the advice though.

Ok well ill clean the intake a good bit and then see what it does. But I mean it was plenty of oil in the accordion pipe and I'm surprised it won't in the filter. Thatnks guys once again.

 

It has trouble getting to the filter typically. Get a can of deep creep seafoam and hose down the valving. If you don't pull apart the UIM, them spray a good bit down it towards the valving.

Let it sit for an hour or two before starting up.

 

I need to do this, I have a strange ugly noise coming from my intake manifold after 6-7K.

Sounds like a baseball card in a bicycle spoke

 

Marbles in a can. SSV issue.

 

i really hope this kill the rest of the problem. whats the difference between that seafoam and the other i used? just the spray?

 

Mostly the spray, but it's not identical. Deep Creep is basically PB blaster on steroids, but using a base formulation similar to standard seafoam. It cuts through carbon quite quickly, but is better than standard deep creep for stuff you can't reach and/or if you have to spray something down.