BHR Ignition Wires and Check Engine Light
#1
BHR Ignition Wires and Check Engine Light
Hey all.
So my ignition wires came in tonight from BHR (the MSD wires) and I decided to put them in. I've done it before, so I knew what I was doing. However, after putting the airbox back in at the end I forgot to plug in the two wire harnesses on the accordion tube. I then proceeded to try and start the car (3 times) before I realized my stupid mistake. I then connected the wire harnesses and started the car - it started perfect. Idle is completely normal and steady. Hardly any vibration. I let it warm up and gave it some revs and it revs completely normal. However, the dreaded check engine light has come on solid. Should I just do the 20 break stomp reset and drive around to let it relearn my trims and such or could this be something more major?
It's a stock 2004 with 38K miles.
So my ignition wires came in tonight from BHR (the MSD wires) and I decided to put them in. I've done it before, so I knew what I was doing. However, after putting the airbox back in at the end I forgot to plug in the two wire harnesses on the accordion tube. I then proceeded to try and start the car (3 times) before I realized my stupid mistake. I then connected the wire harnesses and started the car - it started perfect. Idle is completely normal and steady. Hardly any vibration. I let it warm up and gave it some revs and it revs completely normal. However, the dreaded check engine light has come on solid. Should I just do the 20 break stomp reset and drive around to let it relearn my trims and such or could this be something more major?
It's a stock 2004 with 38K miles.
#7
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Unhook the battery for about 20 minutes(you can depress the brake pedal, that will bleed it off faster) and then start it up. If it's still there, then have the code read and see what it is. The 20 brake pedal stomp will NOT clear a check engine light.
But.......if you unhook the battery you will have to do the TCS/DCS reset.
But.......if you unhook the battery you will have to do the TCS/DCS reset.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-03-2012 at 08:39 PM.
#9
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I was like......WTF? I know he knows better that that! lol
Now, he will probably stall the first couple of stops as all he really did was reset the fuel trims.
Now, he will probably stall the first couple of stops as all he really did was reset the fuel trims.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-03-2012 at 08:55 PM.
#12
I thought the 20 break stomp cleared the KAM, which doesn't house the fuel trim info. Please correct me if Im wrong. Also, instead of unhooking the battery, can't you just push the odo button down and hold it while you turn the key to "on" until it says "Test?" I think I read that resets the NVRAM without losing radio presets and what not.
I'll go and get the code read tomorrow if the light persists through the 20 min drive to town. Thanks for your help guys
I'll go and get the code read tomorrow if the light persists through the 20 min drive to town. Thanks for your help guys
Last edited by sjschutz; 01-03-2012 at 10:19 PM.
#13
Hermitage Holdout
I thought the 20 break stomp cleared the KAM, which doesn't house the fuel trim info. Please correct me if Im wrong. Also, instead of unhooking the battery, can't you just push the odo button down and hold it while you turn the key to "on" until it says "Test?" I think I read that resets the NVRAM without losing radio presets and what not.
I'll go and get the code read tomorrow if the light persists through the 20 min drive to town. Thanks for your help guys
I'll go and get the code read tomorrow if the light persists through the 20 min drive to town. Thanks for your help guys
#14
Might want to read through this post: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=169443.
#15
Got the code read. MAF and IAT caused it, which is to be expected. Everything is in tip-top shape now.
Though I feel I should point out the 20 break stomp (verified by the oil pressure gauge) did nothing to my fuel trims, nor anything else noticable. Although gear changes seem much more crisp.
Anyways thanks again for the help.
Though I feel I should point out the 20 break stomp (verified by the oil pressure gauge) did nothing to my fuel trims, nor anything else noticable. Although gear changes seem much more crisp.
Anyways thanks again for the help.
#16
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il revive this thread since im experiencing similar problems. Installed the BHR coils, plug wires and new spark plugs. It was actually my first attempt at ever doing any work on the car. The installation went fine, started her up the first time and everything was smooth. Let the engine heat up to normal, revved a bit to see the improvements then shut her off. Today when i go out to drive, i see the CEL which wasnt there the first time. Then im worried if my installation wasnt correct or if any of the spark plugs/coils werent connected properly. Just to be sure, the car wont start/drive if one/two plugs or coils arent connected properly right?
il get the code checked but il have to see if anyone has an OBD2 scanner. The car drives totally fine but i didnt push it much. Slow acceleration to 7k a few times was smooth but sometimes gets a little rough on idle. Any help is highly appreciated.
il get the code checked but il have to see if anyone has an OBD2 scanner. The car drives totally fine but i didnt push it much. Slow acceleration to 7k a few times was smooth but sometimes gets a little rough on idle. Any help is highly appreciated.
#17
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Just go through, double check your plug wires and that your plugs are seated correctly.
Check all connectors and the ground most importantly. Make sure your ground is cleanly installed.
After that i would do the 20 brake stomp to clear everything and let it relearn with the new setup. (google RX8club 20 brake pedal stomp)
Still get the code read to be sure.
Hope that helps
Travis
Check all connectors and the ground most importantly. Make sure your ground is cleanly installed.
After that i would do the 20 brake stomp to clear everything and let it relearn with the new setup. (google RX8club 20 brake pedal stomp)
Still get the code read to be sure.
Hope that helps
Travis
#18
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Just go through, double check your plug wires and that your plugs are seated correctly.
Check all connectors and the ground most importantly. Make sure your ground is cleanly installed.
After that i would do the 20 brake stomp to clear everything and let it relearn with the new setup. (google RX8club 20 brake pedal stomp)
Still get the code read to be sure.
Hope that helps
Travis
Check all connectors and the ground most importantly. Make sure your ground is cleanly installed.
After that i would do the 20 brake stomp to clear everything and let it relearn with the new setup. (google RX8club 20 brake pedal stomp)
Still get the code read to be sure.
Hope that helps
Travis
#19
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Hi charles. the codes came up as P0351 to P0354 so im shaking those off as a no problem. but something i dont get is i havent really seen much of a difference in performance aside from a noticeable increase in mileage. i still have the old problem of hesitation in acceleration during the low ranges from 1k-4k rpm. full throttle it takes about 3 bursts to get from 1k-2k, 2k-3k and then finally 3k-4k onwards. was sure they were because of the coils but now that ive changed them with new plugs, im not sure whats causing this.
mods ive done so far: aem intake, bhr midpipe, autoexe catback, exedy hypersingle with lightweight flywheel. will appreciate any help i can get. thanks.
mods ive done so far: aem intake, bhr midpipe, autoexe catback, exedy hypersingle with lightweight flywheel. will appreciate any help i can get. thanks.
#20
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I've read some aftermarket CAIs can affect the MAF sensor.
Did it run good since the intake install?
Just spitballing here.
Did it run good since the intake install?
Just spitballing here.
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