BHR Ignition...now wont start
#27
Usually hard to start car without your install would be...
CAT
Starter
Fuel pump
Gas cap vapor lock
Just double check the install.
then consider the above and talk with Ray
CAT
Starter
Fuel pump
Gas cap vapor lock
Just double check the install.
then consider the above and talk with Ray
#29
To the OP:
I've seen this happen a couple of times and it usually turned out to be a low compression issue masked (don't ask me how ) by the old stock coils.
In other circumstances resetting the eccentric shaft position sensor worked just fine.
Did your car have hot starting issues (even just a delay) before installing the kit?
What i don't get because it probably got lost in all the bullshit that some other members added is: Do you get spark when you crank the car when hot? That really helps determining if it is a kit problem or just some another thing made evident by the coil change. I'm pretty damn sure that you get spark there
How are your battery and starter? That's another thing to consider.
I'm pretty damn sure that Charles will sort things out better than me though so i'm pretty much sure that calling him will probably lead to a good resolution. Unfortunately your thread lost all of its utility because of some rude members.
I've seen this happen a couple of times and it usually turned out to be a low compression issue masked (don't ask me how ) by the old stock coils.
In other circumstances resetting the eccentric shaft position sensor worked just fine.
Did your car have hot starting issues (even just a delay) before installing the kit?
What i don't get because it probably got lost in all the bullshit that some other members added is: Do you get spark when you crank the car when hot? That really helps determining if it is a kit problem or just some another thing made evident by the coil change. I'm pretty damn sure that you get spark there
How are your battery and starter? That's another thing to consider.
I'm pretty damn sure that Charles will sort things out better than me though so i'm pretty much sure that calling him will probably lead to a good resolution. Unfortunately your thread lost all of its utility because of some rude members.
Last edited by bse50; 02-12-2010 at 02:18 AM.
#33
Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help, i will contact the dealership from which i bought the car from and try to utilize their 2 yr motor/drive train warrenty... given they are not a mazda dealership ill just have to wait and see what they instruct me to do to see if low
compression is the issue.
compression is the issue.
Last edited by batangisip89; 02-12-2010 at 10:17 AM. Reason: typo
#34
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help, i will contact the dealership from which i bought the car from and try to utilize their 2 yr motor/drive train warrenty... given they are not a mazda dealership ill just have to wait and see what they instruct me to do to see if low
compression is the issue.
compression is the issue.
If so, the Mazda OEM warranty still stands.
#35
Yes it has approx 68k...
so this warranty is valid for all 8's just as long as they are <100k?
If i do, do it through mazda what would i tell them to ensure i would be eligible to get a reman. motor... do you think ill have to put the oem exhaust back on?
do you have any links for this info so that i can read up on it?
thanks MM
so this warranty is valid for all 8's just as long as they are <100k?
If i do, do it through mazda what would i tell them to ensure i would be eligible to get a reman. motor... do you think ill have to put the oem exhaust back on?
do you have any links for this info so that i can read up on it?
thanks MM
Last edited by batangisip89; 02-12-2010 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Add
#36
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Yes it has approx 68k...
so this warranty is valid for all 8's just as long as they are <100k?
If i do, do it through mazda what would i tell them to ensure i would be eligible to get a reman. motor... do you think ill have to put the oem exhaust back on?
do you have any links for this info so that i can read up on it?
thanks MM
so this warranty is valid for all 8's just as long as they are <100k?
If i do, do it through mazda what would i tell them to ensure i would be eligible to get a reman. motor... do you think ill have to put the oem exhaust back on?
do you have any links for this info so that i can read up on it?
thanks MM
You would go through Mazda and they may or may not make you jump through hoops to get it. But I'd say its worth the effort for a free motor.
The warranty is extended to ALL RX-8s, regardless of ownership, for 100,000 miles and a grip of years (I don't remember how long).
I would put the OE exhaust back on. I'd also try to get as much service information about the car as possible ahead of going in.
#37
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (64)
Yes it has approx 68k...
so this warranty is valid for all 8's just as long as they are <100k?
If i do, do it through mazda what would i tell them to ensure i would be eligible to get a reman. motor... do you think ill have to put the oem exhaust back on?
do you have any links for this info so that i can read up on it?
thanks MM
so this warranty is valid for all 8's just as long as they are <100k?
If i do, do it through mazda what would i tell them to ensure i would be eligible to get a reman. motor... do you think ill have to put the oem exhaust back on?
do you have any links for this info so that i can read up on it?
thanks MM
Some dealers are ok with certain mods on the car others are not, better safe than sorry.
#38
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
you can go to any mazda dealership and tell them you have a "loss of power" and car will not start when hot.
they'll know what to do from there.
only thing I woudl be cautios of is that they might ask you for service records. Cross that bridge when you get there.
they'll know what to do from there.
only thing I woudl be cautios of is that they might ask you for service records. Cross that bridge when you get there.
#39
Thanks for the replies guys...
ill make my first move after i get all the OE parts back on thank God i ddnt sell them!!!
yea those service records hopefully are not going to get me into a sticky situation... because i basically have none except for the MSP16 reflash a while ago... i do all the maintenance on the car myself and i change oil regularly...
ill make my first move after i get all the OE parts back on thank God i ddnt sell them!!!
yea those service records hopefully are not going to get me into a sticky situation... because i basically have none except for the MSP16 reflash a while ago... i do all the maintenance on the car myself and i change oil regularly...
#42
Lubricious
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Just as a suggestion, no matter how many times you may have reviewed the firing order, check it again if you're having starting issues with this ignition. This was my problem; I'd swapped L2 and T2. I was having delayed starts, though not every time. Once running, things seemed fairly normal. I guess the trailing plug firing too soon to do anything, and the leading plug being retarded, I was somewhat down on power but it wasn't really noticeable. Not until I corrected the order. Then - WOW. I guess my old weak stuff was at about the same level as BHR ignition with 1 reversed rotor.
Anyway, you probably don't have the same stupid-gene as me, but I'd say it's worth a re-check, INCLUDING verifying the order of harness connection. I must have looked at things 3 times before it clicked.
Anyway, you probably don't have the same stupid-gene as me, but I'd say it's worth a re-check, INCLUDING verifying the order of harness connection. I must have looked at things 3 times before it clicked.
#45
That combination (dead battery and\or weak starter) may easily lead to long starting times.
Hot engines have a lower compression than they do when they are cold so a weak starter may just be too slow to crank it up. This doesn't mean that you have to replace your engine anytime soon, maybe it's just on the lower side of the specs.
With a weak battery you may just not have enough voltage to spin the starter and fire those coils well. I don't know if it is because those coils require more electricity than the stock ones during start up and the only thing i know about electricity is that i have to stay clear from the electric outlets at home or my mother will beat me
Charles probably doesn't remember this but when he shipped me one of the very first ignition set-ups i had your same problem. He sent a new set of wires thinking that i may have broken a terminal during the install after I gave him a lot of headaches because after the start-up the car was running perfect.
I simply bought a new battery and called it a day since mine was dropping to around 11v when starting.
Problem solved, in my case. I did the same with another car or two
You should ask a mazda dealer to check if your car had those TSBs performed. You can test your battery with a voltmeter in like 20 seconds
Hope this helps!
#47
Registered Zoom Zoomer
iTrader: (2)
That particular TSB is now null and void as I presume Mazda figured the bumper-to-bumper warranty was expired on the target '04 and early '05 models and folks had enough time to take advantage of the free offer. Alas some original owners were clueless of this TSB and TSB's in general and now new-to-you owners are having to foot the bill.
#48
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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My only issue with this thread was I saw it deteriorating into the ole Vegas vs. Az thing again and was counter-productive to solving this guys issue. That's why I said........IBTL. I didn't think the ban stick would emerge, but thought for sure it would get locked.
Anyway, we all know that the first thing some of us tend to jump on with threads leading up to ones like this is to change the plugs, wires, and coils. This naturally leads to people saying...."get the BHR ignition system" (which of course is a very good and proved solution, backed up by the whole BHR team), but it's obviously isn't the cure all if the car has other underlying issues. This then leads to threads like this where Ray and the guys end up having to defend the solution, get dragged further into helping debug other unrelated issues with the car, and correcting mis-conceptions.
But, that's just my two cents........and WTF do I know.........carry on.
Oh............Jeff, FYI.........the 100k warranty is for 8 years.
Anyway, we all know that the first thing some of us tend to jump on with threads leading up to ones like this is to change the plugs, wires, and coils. This naturally leads to people saying...."get the BHR ignition system" (which of course is a very good and proved solution, backed up by the whole BHR team), but it's obviously isn't the cure all if the car has other underlying issues. This then leads to threads like this where Ray and the guys end up having to defend the solution, get dragged further into helping debug other unrelated issues with the car, and correcting mis-conceptions.
But, that's just my two cents........and WTF do I know.........carry on.
Oh............Jeff, FYI.........the 100k warranty is for 8 years.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 02-13-2010 at 11:09 AM.
#49
Registered
Interesting, but I would bet Charles looked into this. One of my earliest memories was being told in no uncertain terms NOT to cut the cords of plugged-in lamps, no matter how scary cool the flash was.
#50
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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Grade School...........we used to short out the outlets in the back of the class with a paperclip when nobody was looking(so that the breaker would trip) and we'd get to go outside for a few minutes while maintenance was called! They never did catch us, but there were quite a few burnt electrical outlets. They never did figure out what was causing them to short out!