Engine Knocking - Please help
12-02-2011, 05:35 AM
#1
Engine Knocking - Please help
Hi there,
I recently bought a RX-8 2004 second hand 64k miles, but when I start the engine there is a red light on the gauge also the yellow engine light and knocking sound from the engine also RPM under 1k. The previous owner made a Mazda service check and they established that this is common RX-8 problem. I check that the last owner put fully synthetic oil and this is very wrong for this model.
I read a lot of threads and I know that probably I will need a engine replacement but if there is chance to fix it please let me know. Thanks
I recently bought a RX-8 2004 second hand 64k miles, but when I start the engine there is a red light on the gauge also the yellow engine light and knocking sound from the engine also RPM under 1k. The previous owner made a Mazda service check and they established that this is common RX-8 problem. I check that the last owner put fully synthetic oil and this is very wrong for this model.
I read a lot of threads and I know that probably I will need a engine replacement but if there is chance to fix it please let me know. Thanks
Last edited by Kpa640; 12-02-2011 at 05:37 AM.
12-02-2011, 05:42 AM
#2
Synthetic oil being very wrong?
Do the usual routine checks. Compression, ignition, possibly reset the e-shaft profile etc. If it's just shaking check the engine mounts.
Knocking and pinging may depend on a bunch of different factors. Make sure that it is actually what's happening.
Do the usual routine checks. Compression, ignition, possibly reset the e-shaft profile etc. If it's just shaking check the engine mounts.
Knocking and pinging may depend on a bunch of different factors. Make sure that it is actually what's happening.
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
12-02-2011, 03:51 PM
#4
Thank you guys for the fast answers.
I forgot to add something very important - the engine has difficult start.
I will try tomorrow to reset the e-shaft profile. The oil he used is 5w30 Fully synthetic, I'm a little bit confuse, everybody are telling me different oils.
About the fuel, I'm not sure because I'm still using the last's owner reserve.
I forgot to add something very important - the engine has difficult start.
I will try tomorrow to reset the e-shaft profile. The oil he used is 5w30 Fully synthetic, I'm a little bit confuse, everybody are telling me different oils.
About the fuel, I'm not sure because I'm still using the last's owner reserve.
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
12-03-2011, 08:53 AM
#6
Hermitage Holdout
...and figure out whether you have any warranty coverage, either with the seller (if it was not a private individual) or with Mazda or both. A little searching here will give you plenty of information on the Mazda side of this suggestion.
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
12-04-2011, 01:14 AM
#8
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
...it is freaking oil for *#*#*'s sake.
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
12-05-2011, 04:11 PM
#14
Thanks for the info guys. This is the best forum!
The lights are:
"Engine coolant level warning light" <-- I check the coolant is Ok
"Check engine light" <-- The diagnostic says "Internal fault" common for RX8.
Today I was unable to get over 4k RPM. The car now is in the service for compression test. Is the engine completely dead or there is a little hope to fix it?
About the warranty - I'm the 8th owner may I use it when is under 100k miles? Curious why the previous owner didn't make nothing. Even he told me that "unfortunately i do not have the time, resources or money to look into", so I guess no warranty.
The lights are:
"Engine coolant level warning light" <-- I check the coolant is Ok
"Check engine light" <-- The diagnostic says "Internal fault" common for RX8.
Today I was unable to get over 4k RPM. The car now is in the service for compression test. Is the engine completely dead or there is a little hope to fix it?
About the warranty - I'm the 8th owner may I use it when is under 100k miles? Curious why the previous owner didn't make nothing. Even he told me that "unfortunately i do not have the time, resources or money to look into", so I guess no warranty.
Last edited by Kpa640; 12-05-2011 at 04:20 PM.
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
12-05-2011, 06:11 PM
#17
Registered
12-09-2011, 11:00 AM
#20
The result is low compression. I left the car in the local service to open the engine and to try to rebuild it. I hope that all the problem will be solved by replacing the apex seals or the side seals on the rotors. Tomorrow or after tomorrow I will know for sure.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
Last edited by Kpa640; 12-09-2011 at 11:09 AM.
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cplebar (01-24-2023)
12-09-2011, 12:52 PM
#22
That's true Cohort but unfortunately, I'm the 8th owner and I bought the car abroad, so no more warranty.
Does anybody know the size of the stock Mazda OEM Apex seals in 13B engine?
Does anybody know the size of the stock Mazda OEM Apex seals in 13B engine?
08-27-2019, 02:19 AM
#23
For anyone that comes across this thread from a search. I know it is an old thread but just to update information.
The knocking you hear is one rotor face experiencing a misfire, could be bad fuel, bad oil, cracked seals, coked up plugs or rotors, overheating, bad sensor causing computer to fuel bad and so on. It is easy to call low compression which it most likely is but there are a few things that can cause low compression in the 13B for instance using a 5W30 which aftermarkets recommend yet Mazda recommend 0W20 can cause this issue, fixing it will need either a rebuild or cleaning.
with the use of 5W30 or thicker oils at 100'c causes the OMP pump to meter the rotary oil in the cylinder to be less. It will suffer from oil starvation in the cylinders. The pump can be adjusted for different oils or the pump modded to be supplied from a separate 2 stroke oil bottle. The reality is that the engine is setup and metered for 0W20 and as of today modern high quality oils are much better than they used to be years ago.
All this said, the Mazda RX8 is a sports car, it is a high performance engine and will require allot of love, constant rebuilds and work to keep running as does any sports car. This is a not a car suitable for everyday runs to work and back, it is a mean machine designed to be driven not transporting.
It is best to buy a spare engine and rebuild the spare while you use the other and then swap the engines over when the used engine needs a rebuild. I'd say the RX rotary cars are a petrol-heads car for sure, far beats anything else for sure, just know that you will need know how to take out and rebuild the engine like you change the clutch on a normal car.
The knocking you hear is one rotor face experiencing a misfire, could be bad fuel, bad oil, cracked seals, coked up plugs or rotors, overheating, bad sensor causing computer to fuel bad and so on. It is easy to call low compression which it most likely is but there are a few things that can cause low compression in the 13B for instance using a 5W30 which aftermarkets recommend yet Mazda recommend 0W20 can cause this issue, fixing it will need either a rebuild or cleaning.
with the use of 5W30 or thicker oils at 100'c causes the OMP pump to meter the rotary oil in the cylinder to be less. It will suffer from oil starvation in the cylinders. The pump can be adjusted for different oils or the pump modded to be supplied from a separate 2 stroke oil bottle. The reality is that the engine is setup and metered for 0W20 and as of today modern high quality oils are much better than they used to be years ago.
All this said, the Mazda RX8 is a sports car, it is a high performance engine and will require allot of love, constant rebuilds and work to keep running as does any sports car. This is a not a car suitable for everyday runs to work and back, it is a mean machine designed to be driven not transporting.
It is best to buy a spare engine and rebuild the spare while you use the other and then swap the engines over when the used engine needs a rebuild. I'd say the RX rotary cars are a petrol-heads car for sure, far beats anything else for sure, just know that you will need know how to take out and rebuild the engine like you change the clutch on a normal car.
08-27-2019, 02:48 PM
#24
Last time I checked the recommended oil in North America is 5-20..
Changing to 5-30 will not change the OMP output as oil is basically non-compressible and will not alter the pump output as it is a positive displacement type pump that injects a volume of oil based on the piston positions.
Changing to 5-30 will not change the OMP output as oil is basically non-compressible and will not alter the pump output as it is a positive displacement type pump that injects a volume of oil based on the piston positions.
08-27-2019, 04:22 PM
#25
For anyone that comes across this thread from a search. I know it is an old thread but just to update information.
The knocking you hear is one rotor face experiencing a misfire, could be bad fuel, bad oil, cracked seals, coked up plugs or rotors, overheating, bad sensor causing computer to fuel bad and so on. It is easy to call low compression which it most likely is but there are a few things that can cause low compression in the 13B for instance using a 5W30 which aftermarkets recommend yet Mazda recommend 0W20 can cause this issue, fixing it will need either a rebuild or cleaning.
with the use of 5W30 or thicker oils at 100'c causes the OMP pump to meter the rotary oil in the cylinder to be less. It will suffer from oil starvation in the cylinders. The pump can be adjusted for different oils or the pump modded to be supplied from a separate 2 stroke oil bottle. The reality is that the engine is setup and metered for 0W20 and as of today modern high quality oils are much better than they used to be years ago.
All this said, the Mazda RX8 is a sports car, it is a high performance engine and will require allot of love, constant rebuilds and work to keep running as does any sports car. This is a not a car suitable for everyday runs to work and back, it is a mean machine designed to be driven not transporting.
It is best to buy a spare engine and rebuild the spare while you use the other and then swap the engines over when the used engine needs a rebuild. I'd say the RX rotary cars are a petrol-heads car for sure, far beats anything else for sure, just know that you will need know how to take out and rebuild the engine like you change the clutch on a normal car.
The knocking you hear is one rotor face experiencing a misfire, could be bad fuel, bad oil, cracked seals, coked up plugs or rotors, overheating, bad sensor causing computer to fuel bad and so on. It is easy to call low compression which it most likely is but there are a few things that can cause low compression in the 13B for instance using a 5W30 which aftermarkets recommend yet Mazda recommend 0W20 can cause this issue, fixing it will need either a rebuild or cleaning.
with the use of 5W30 or thicker oils at 100'c causes the OMP pump to meter the rotary oil in the cylinder to be less. It will suffer from oil starvation in the cylinders. The pump can be adjusted for different oils or the pump modded to be supplied from a separate 2 stroke oil bottle. The reality is that the engine is setup and metered for 0W20 and as of today modern high quality oils are much better than they used to be years ago.
All this said, the Mazda RX8 is a sports car, it is a high performance engine and will require allot of love, constant rebuilds and work to keep running as does any sports car. This is a not a car suitable for everyday runs to work and back, it is a mean machine designed to be driven not transporting.
It is best to buy a spare engine and rebuild the spare while you use the other and then swap the engines over when the used engine needs a rebuild. I'd say the RX rotary cars are a petrol-heads car for sure, far beats anything else for sure, just know that you will need know how to take out and rebuild the engine like you change the clutch on a normal car.
Literally none of this is accurate or recommended. Why did you post it?