An answer to “should I drive my RX8 in the winter?”
09-01-2006, 10:11 PM
#1
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
An answer to “should I drive my RX8 in the winter?”
Not if your car will be exposed to road salt, and you value its appearance and structural integrity.
No solid information is provided by Mazda on measures taken on the 8 to prevent corrosion. Some of us have guessed galvanized metal or other preventative treatments have been used, https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/prevention-body-cancer-20556/ but have we seen anything in print?
After three winters driving my RX8, I’ve found the expected surface rust on some black painted surfaces underneath the car, but I think the rust I’ve found in the floorpan and fender edges is inexcusable in this day and age. Neither of my previous cars (Imprezas) showed this kind of problem; even the ’95 after 6 years of our admittedly corrosive winter conditions. (I only drove the WRX through two winters so maybe that’s an unfair comparison) Even my old Festiva did better on its surfaces underneath, except for the rear driver’s quarter panel finally giving in from salty water tracked in, something I’ve carefully avoided with cars I bought later.
I do my best to try to keep my car clean and waxed. During the winter, if I can’t give it a soapy washing I at least rinse it off thoroughly at the local DIY car wash after every snow/salt episode clears. I felt kinda bad after posting my diatribe on Mazda’s pigheadedness after hearing about the survey / engine replacement debacle a couple weeks ago, but especially today, after finding a couple spots blistering on the rear fender edges; I really am pissed of at mazda!
Hey, the car’s traction and handling in the snow with winter tires are pretty good. But with the rust problem, the inability of the engine to warm up enough, the lack of visibility, (which is bad enough on an ideal day but worse when the windows get salted or frosted up) and the low ground clearance, I just don’t want to drive it another winter. I’m now trying to find a different vehicle to drive this winter, something I should have done three years ago.
Do any of you have a similar problem, or any suggestions on what to do to repair this damage and keep it from getting worse? If this doesn't look too bad to you now; it will after another winter! Maybe I could “help” it along so I could make the warranty claim? (sarcasm) Then what?
No solid information is provided by Mazda on measures taken on the 8 to prevent corrosion. Some of us have guessed galvanized metal or other preventative treatments have been used, https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/prevention-body-cancer-20556/ but have we seen anything in print?
After three winters driving my RX8, I’ve found the expected surface rust on some black painted surfaces underneath the car, but I think the rust I’ve found in the floorpan and fender edges is inexcusable in this day and age. Neither of my previous cars (Imprezas) showed this kind of problem; even the ’95 after 6 years of our admittedly corrosive winter conditions. (I only drove the WRX through two winters so maybe that’s an unfair comparison) Even my old Festiva did better on its surfaces underneath, except for the rear driver’s quarter panel finally giving in from salty water tracked in, something I’ve carefully avoided with cars I bought later.
I do my best to try to keep my car clean and waxed. During the winter, if I can’t give it a soapy washing I at least rinse it off thoroughly at the local DIY car wash after every snow/salt episode clears. I felt kinda bad after posting my diatribe on Mazda’s pigheadedness after hearing about the survey / engine replacement debacle a couple weeks ago, but especially today, after finding a couple spots blistering on the rear fender edges; I really am pissed of at mazda!
Hey, the car’s traction and handling in the snow with winter tires are pretty good. But with the rust problem, the inability of the engine to warm up enough, the lack of visibility, (which is bad enough on an ideal day but worse when the windows get salted or frosted up) and the low ground clearance, I just don’t want to drive it another winter. I’m now trying to find a different vehicle to drive this winter, something I should have done three years ago.
Do any of you have a similar problem, or any suggestions on what to do to repair this damage and keep it from getting worse? If this doesn't look too bad to you now; it will after another winter! Maybe I could “help” it along so I could make the warranty claim? (sarcasm) Then what?
Last edited by KKMmaniac; 09-01-2006 at 10:16 PM.
10-06-2006, 11:49 PM
#3
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
I figured this thread just died from lack of interest!
Anyway, the anti corrosion warranty is all fine and good, but I believe action is only taken if the metal becomes perforated. I probably won't get a chance to get it in to the dealer this year. (I've most recently been going to Walser in Burnsville when absolutely necessary, they seem pretty competent)
Who knows... Two years to go, then what? Bondo?
Anyway, the anti corrosion warranty is all fine and good, but I believe action is only taken if the metal becomes perforated. I probably won't get a chance to get it in to the dealer this year. (I've most recently been going to Walser in Burnsville when absolutely necessary, they seem pretty competent)
Who knows... Two years to go, then what? Bondo?
10-06-2006, 11:56 PM
#4
Questioning the title next to my avatar... My goal to have Forced Induction. Am hoping for an Axial Flow or a Twin Screw. 
We'll see RP, Hymee, and Pettit.
Does the warranty say it has to be perforated?
They have refinished the brake rotors because of rust... depends on their mood.
We'll see RP, Hymee, and Pettit.
Does the warranty say it has to be perforated?
They have refinished the brake rotors because of rust... depends on their mood.
10-08-2006, 08:35 PM
#7
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
As far as trying to keep the 8 as a collectors item or antique: that's really not the point. I don't think any of us like to drive around in what could be (or was) a nice car, if it wasn't for the rust holes, which can ultimately affect the structure of the car.
I did pick up another ride for winter and general commuting. Now I'm not really too keen on subjecting it to the same crap either!
I wish I could put it in the "way back" machine and undo the damage that's been done. Rust isn't gonna just stop either. I was thinking I'd try spraying the visible areas with a rust arresting agent; has anybody had any luck with such a thing?
I did pick up another ride for winter and general commuting. Now I'm not really too keen on subjecting it to the same crap either!
I wish I could put it in the "way back" machine and undo the damage that's been done. Rust isn't gonna just stop either. I was thinking I'd try spraying the visible areas with a rust arresting agent; has anybody had any luck with such a thing?
Last edited by KKMmaniac; 10-08-2006 at 08:41 PM.
10-08-2006, 08:46 PM
#8
Bummed, but bring on OU!
Originally Posted by KKMmaniac
I did pick up another ride for winter and general commuting. Now I'm not really too keen on subjecting it to the same crap either!
Might I suggest:
Or:
Edit: 150 bucks for snowshoes?? Ludicrous.
10-08-2006, 09:02 PM
#10
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
I'm not liking the first idea - kind of a long commute. I could probably be talked into the second one.
Yeah, I know - put up or shut up. If you can't stand the heat (cold) get out of the kitchen.(Minnesota) etc.
How 'bout one of these? (might get a little chilly in January)
Yeah, I know - put up or shut up. If you can't stand the heat (cold) get out of the kitchen.(Minnesota) etc.
How 'bout one of these? (might get a little chilly in January)
10-10-2006, 08:39 PM
#13
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
I was considering buying a fairly recent dirt-cheap, gas sipping, FWD generic Japanese (or possibly Korean) econobox with an automatic. But I found such vehicles weren't dirt cheap; resale, especially on decent Toyotas and Hondas tends to be too damn close to the price of brand new ones.
I've always liked BMW's since back in the days of the 2002 but was turned off for the longest time by the whole "yuppiemobile" syndrome, when it seemed so many people who really didn't have any idea about automotive engineering details started buying them for the status.
Anyway, I found a good, clean 318ti (the baby) that meets my requirements of space, (hatch) fuel economy (mid to upper 20's) and just plain day to day driving enjoyment. And it has a sunroof which I'll appreciate when the weather warms up again; it also cost considerably less than a new stripped-down Aveo.
A performance sportscar it ain't, but that's why I have the RX8.
I've always liked BMW's since back in the days of the 2002 but was turned off for the longest time by the whole "yuppiemobile" syndrome, when it seemed so many people who really didn't have any idea about automotive engineering details started buying them for the status.
Anyway, I found a good, clean 318ti (the baby) that meets my requirements of space, (hatch) fuel economy (mid to upper 20's) and just plain day to day driving enjoyment. And it has a sunroof which I'll appreciate when the weather warms up again; it also cost considerably less than a new stripped-down Aveo.
A performance sportscar it ain't, but that's why I have the RX8.
10-13-2006, 06:42 AM
#15
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
1noway:
Sorry to hear that!
Good point to add: the road salt really works its magic on aluminum and steel parts of the engine and other parts too!
Sorry to hear that!
Good point to add: the road salt really works its magic on aluminum and steel parts of the engine and other parts too!
10-13-2006, 09:16 PM
#18
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
I had a whole list of suggestions I tried to reply with, but I forget to copy them to the clipboard and l got timed out. (I never did learn to type worth a damn)
Since I'm the person bitching about the rust thing, I probably shouldn't be giving advice here anyway!
Since I'm the person bitching about the rust thing, I probably shouldn't be giving advice here anyway!
10-13-2006, 09:24 PM
#19
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
I can say, I've found all-weather floor mats didn't work worth a crap for me in the past because salty snow from my boots would melt and slosh off an edge of the mat and soak into the carpet no matter how often I dumped the brine off.
I used the stock carpeted mats in the RX8 with a piece of vinyl floor runner under the front of the mat extending past it a few inches. I'd bring the mats inside to dry out once in a while, and washed them a couple times during the course of the winter.
I used the stock carpeted mats in the RX8 with a piece of vinyl floor runner under the front of the mat extending past it a few inches. I'd bring the mats inside to dry out once in a while, and washed them a couple times during the course of the winter.
10-13-2006, 11:15 PM
#20
Thread Pirate, Ahhrrrrr
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 784
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any advice is appreciated. Plus maybe you could post what you do. It just might be possible something you did made things worse and it would be good for all of us to know not to that.
Yeah I've lost a couple posts that way too.
Yeah I've lost a couple posts that way too.
Last edited by SmokeyTheBalrog; 10-13-2006 at 11:18 PM.
10-14-2006, 04:53 PM
#21
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From your pictures, it doesn't look like the car is rusting that bad. You should see mine. The rotors are real bad. Underneath, Many exposed metal parts (axles, for example) have "surface rust" on them. The one place that really worries me (I am going to try to fix it myself) under the trunk lid, opposite side of the Mazda emblem where the 90 degree bend between the side and top.
I have used rubberized undercoating (sparingly) for the underneath. I will see how that holds up this winter.
I have used rubberized undercoating (sparingly) for the underneath. I will see how that holds up this winter.
10-15-2006, 07:10 AM
#22
Thread Pirate, Ahhrrrrr
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 784
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow scary guys. Guess I need to do a cheek. I'll also ask my mech look.
KKMmaniac I hope you didn't feel insulted by my comment. Certainly wasn't meant in any unpleasant way.
How do you guys manage to wash the underside of the car?
KKMmaniac I hope you didn't feel insulted by my comment. Certainly wasn't meant in any unpleasant way.
How do you guys manage to wash the underside of the car?
10-15-2006, 08:54 AM
#23
We have do it yourself car washes here in MN that I have used to wash the car during the winter. Underneath is tough but I think it worked better than a lot of the car washes that do an underbody wash. 
Mine was totally rust free until it sat in the shop dirty for 3 months 
What I would do at the DIY car wash is soap/rinse/wax the underside. The front of the car can really use a 3M clear bra to prevent damage to the car. It probably helps more in the summer because of bugs though.
Does rustoleum paint help inhibit rust if applied?
Mine was totally rust free until it sat in the shop dirty for 3 months What I would do at the DIY car wash is soap/rinse/wax the underside. The front of the car can really use a 3M clear bra to prevent damage to the car. It probably helps more in the summer because of bugs though.
Does rustoleum paint help inhibit rust if applied?
10-15-2006, 10:11 AM
#24
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am not trying to scare anyone, either. I bought my car with ~21k miles, so I don't know how it was taken care of prior to my purchase. It spent its life (it's an '04 model) in NJ and now I am in NY. It is really hard to avoid small amounts of rust on untreated body parts up in these parts. I can keep the body panels rust free with regular washes and waxes. The underside is a little more difficult. I have no pitting, though.
Last edited by rxtreme; 10-15-2006 at 10:13 AM.
10-15-2006, 07:25 PM
#25
VW coulda had it...
Thread Starter
SmokeyTheBalrog:
Not insulted at all! Perhaps there were more things I could have done, and if I can help others I'd like to.
Yes, the DIY wash is good for spraying the underside of the car. I found it difficult to get at the backside of the fender lips though, and maybe a bunch of salt and dirt settled in there.
I figured a rinse before parking at night would be a good thing, but maybe moisture just got driven in deeper?
Also, I had the dealer replace the missing four rubber plugs (to plug the holes used in transit I think) in the stamped pan rails a while back; maybe it's better to leave the holes open for drainage?
Some kind of waxy self-healing undercoat may be a good thing, especially if it can be sprayed into cavities. (be sure they are clean and moisture free first)
rxtreme, I've got the rust you're talking about too except under the trunk lid, I hope you can stop it there. (I'd better take another look at my car!) I hit the rotors with barbeque paint two years ago, but the rust has returned. The rust I have now maybe isn't too bad, but it's in a kind of difficult place to get it out of there before treating or painting it. Oh yeah, and the blisters on the fenders...
Not insulted at all! Perhaps there were more things I could have done, and if I can help others I'd like to.
Yes, the DIY wash is good for spraying the underside of the car. I found it difficult to get at the backside of the fender lips though, and maybe a bunch of salt and dirt settled in there.
I figured a rinse before parking at night would be a good thing, but maybe moisture just got driven in deeper?
Also, I had the dealer replace the missing four rubber plugs (to plug the holes used in transit I think) in the stamped pan rails a while back; maybe it's better to leave the holes open for drainage?
Some kind of waxy self-healing undercoat may be a good thing, especially if it can be sprayed into cavities. (be sure they are clean and moisture free first)
rxtreme, I've got the rust you're talking about too except under the trunk lid, I hope you can stop it there. (I'd better take another look at my car!) I hit the rotors with barbeque paint two years ago, but the rust has returned. The rust I have now maybe isn't too bad, but it's in a kind of difficult place to get it out of there before treating or painting it. Oh yeah, and the blisters on the fenders...