Is it all over? :'(
#1
Is it all over? :'(
I have spent months trying to fix my issue with the power and starting issues.
I recently had a compression test done and they came back at 530 on each rotor. The independant garage also said that these figures were okay.
I have just spoken to a main mazda dealer and i quoted my compression figures and they said anything below 690 you will have starting issues and will need engine rebuild/new engine.
Who is right?!
Is this dooms day?
I recently had a compression test done and they came back at 530 on each rotor. The independant garage also said that these figures were okay.
I have just spoken to a main mazda dealer and i quoted my compression figures and they said anything below 690 you will have starting issues and will need engine rebuild/new engine.
Who is right?!
Is this dooms day?
#3
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It depends on the cranking RPM.
The rotary gains compression the faster it spins, so you could be fine with a cranking RPM of ~180-200. If those were the numbers at 250rpm, then yes, you would be failing. The dealer quoted you the 250rpm compression pass/fail line.
I don't remember your mileage, but you are in the UK right? So no 100k warranty that I'm aware of
The rotary gains compression the faster it spins, so you could be fine with a cranking RPM of ~180-200. If those were the numbers at 250rpm, then yes, you would be failing. The dealer quoted you the 250rpm compression pass/fail line.
I don't remember your mileage, but you are in the UK right? So no 100k warranty that I'm aware of
#4
I will have to double check what RPM it was but i believe it was 250rpm. I hope i can make back some money selling the car :/
I really don't want to leave mazda but it seems i have no choice
I really don't want to leave mazda but it seems i have no choice
#6
Yes i am in the UK and don't think that warranty will be valid? I am not the original owner.
Its late 2003 model and at 61000 miles..The thing is the car still drives but trouble when starting..I think i could sell and make most of my money back?
Purchased the car for £2300
Its late 2003 model and at 61000 miles..The thing is the car still drives but trouble when starting..I think i could sell and make most of my money back?
Purchased the car for £2300
#7
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Unfortunately the UK doesn't have the same warranty. If you only have that little in it, there's a chance you can sell it for similar. I don't know what the going price for a dead engine 8 across the pond is though. Replacing the engine would most likely cost you about what you have in it depending on the engine you put in, where you get it from, or rebuilding yours.
#8
Its all about ripping people off in the UK
I have seen engines for £1500 but that's not even fitted so yes probably going to cost around what I paid for it..
There are 8's on ebay with dead engines going for £2000.... I wont know what to get next....I thoroughly enjoyed the quality from this mazda!
I have seen engines for £1500 but that's not even fitted so yes probably going to cost around what I paid for it..
There are 8's on ebay with dead engines going for £2000.... I wont know what to get next....I thoroughly enjoyed the quality from this mazda!
#9
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Yeah, if you only paid 2,300 for it, you should be able to get that back. Ignoring the actual market differences, that is about $5,000 USD, which is about average for blown-engine 8s over here.
#10
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You can always reach out to some of the locals (there has to be some you'd think). Maybe they can give you a hand with the install for beer and food or something. It's worth a shot.
If you decide to sell, you may be able to part it out if you have the time, space, and tools to take it apart. It may take longer, but you'll get more money out of it.
If you decide to sell, you may be able to part it out if you have the time, space, and tools to take it apart. It may take longer, but you'll get more money out of it.
#11
Voids warranties
A random stab in the dark here but maybe you can, and this is a long shot, take the starter out, bring it to a machine shop and see if it would be possible to have a higher gear reduction fitted to it. Possibly enabling it to spin fast enough to start the engine. I may cost a couple hundred bucks but cheaper than doing a rebuild. On that borrowed time, save up to buy a newer engine.
#12
#13
That's not a bad shout actually but the fact is its going to be very hard to save 2k for engine rebuild i could look for a newer starter but i think compression affecting my mpg.. Normal driver and got 180miles from full tank
#14
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Coils, plugs, wires. I believe that also affects compression, I could be wrong though.
Also, did you say you had a compression test at a dealership as well? Or you just told them your results? Because if it's converted to 250RPM than it could just be lower ratings due to an outdated starter.
#15
All my ignition parts are brand new.
I went to a mazda specialist who says he does around 2 rx8's per day for compression and diagnostics. http://www.freelancemazda.co.uk/
I went there, he hooked it up to the diagnostic machine which also done compression, diagnostics showed car was in limp mode due to faulty o2 sensor. He replaced it straight away and then done compression on same machine.
He showed me the readings on the screen and were 530 rotor 1 and 550 rotor 2. I can't remember at what RPM that was at?
He said the figures were okay, took it for a drive and said it was okay compared to a lot of others that he does. But i called a main mazda dealership told them the figures and they said they were very low and needs new engine.
So a faulty starter motor could give me lower compression readings? The compression test machine cranked the car for roughly 10 seconds.
I went to a mazda specialist who says he does around 2 rx8's per day for compression and diagnostics. http://www.freelancemazda.co.uk/
I went there, he hooked it up to the diagnostic machine which also done compression, diagnostics showed car was in limp mode due to faulty o2 sensor. He replaced it straight away and then done compression on same machine.
He showed me the readings on the screen and were 530 rotor 1 and 550 rotor 2. I can't remember at what RPM that was at?
He said the figures were okay, took it for a drive and said it was okay compared to a lot of others that he does. But i called a main mazda dealership told them the figures and they said they were very low and needs new engine.
So a faulty starter motor could give me lower compression readings? The compression test machine cranked the car for roughly 10 seconds.
#16
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He showed me the readings on the screen and were 530 rotor 1 and 550 rotor 2. I can't remember at what RPM that was at?
He said the figures were okay, took it for a drive and said it was okay compared to a lot of others that he does. But i called a main mazda dealership told them the figures and they said they were very low and needs new engine.
So a faulty starter motor could give me lower compression readings? The compression test machine cranked the car for roughly 10 seconds.
He said the figures were okay, took it for a drive and said it was okay compared to a lot of others that he does. But i called a main mazda dealership told them the figures and they said they were very low and needs new engine.
So a faulty starter motor could give me lower compression readings? The compression test machine cranked the car for roughly 10 seconds.
Without all these values, "530" and "550" are almost meaningless.
Last edited by PeteInLongBeach; 11-17-2011 at 10:00 AM.