ABS light and traction control light on after coilover install
02-04-2009, 09:25 PM
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ABS light and traction control light on after coilover install
As stated the ABS light and traction control light came on on today, i didnt get it till well into the afternoon, The car has not had ECU reset or hasnt lost connection with the battery. Standard steering wheel procedure for getting rid of these for after disconnecting battery didnt clear it. The only difference is Tein basic coilovers. The car itself handles and stops normally but has not lost power unlike other people with similar issues. It would turn off each time the car would, but this last time the lights were still on. I noticed they came up once when i hit a nasty pothole, could this be the culprit? The car itself is low and Cali roads are crap. I checked trouble codes with the Accessport and the codes that came up were RKE P0039. Any insight on this matter is greatly appreciated.
02-04-2009, 10:49 PM
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Be sure to check your ABS cables and ensure they are secure. Usually you have to unbolt the cable to make more room to get the strut assembly out of the car. If those connections are loose or damaged they might be causing the PCM to throw a light.
02-05-2009, 03:49 AM
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As stated the ABS light and traction control light came on on today, i didnt get it till well into the afternoon, The car has not had ECU reset or hasnt lost connection with the battery. Standard steering wheel procedure for getting rid of these for after disconnecting battery didnt clear it. The only difference is Tein basic coilovers. The car itself handles and stops normally but has not lost power unlike other people with similar issues. It would turn off each time the car would, but this last time the lights were still on. I noticed they came up once when i hit a nasty pothole, could this be the culprit? The car itself is low and Cali roads are crap. I checked trouble codes with the Accessport and the codes that came up were RKE P0039. Any insight on this matter is greatly appreciated.
Now heres what ya do; Get in your car, turn the key on but dont start the car yet. Pump the brake peddle as many times as fast as you can. You will see the oil gauge move to the center then back down.
Take the key out. Why I dont know I just do.
Then start your car.
Turn your wheels all the way to the left then all the way to the right then back to center.
Your lights should go off.
-Gil
02-05-2009, 06:35 AM
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This happen to me when my friend installed my springs on my AT and on my MT. Its norm. Also happen to me when I put my MT on the dyno.
Now heres what ya do; Get in your car, turn the key on but dont start the car yet. Pump the brake peddle as many times as fast as you can. You will see the oil gauge move to the center then back down.
Take the key out. Why I dont know I just do.
Then start your car.
Turn your wheels all the way to the left then all the way to the right then back to center.
Your lights should go off.
-Gil
Now heres what ya do; Get in your car, turn the key on but dont start the car yet. Pump the brake peddle as many times as fast as you can. You will see the oil gauge move to the center then back down.
Take the key out. Why I dont know I just do.
Then start your car.
Turn your wheels all the way to the left then all the way to the right then back to center.
Your lights should go off.
-Gil
There's no need to perform a E-shaft position sensor reset which is what happenes when you pump your brake pedal 21 times and the oil pressure gauge rises and falls. That's only necessary if you've done a pulley install or motor swap.
Isn't the lock to lock move done to program your DSC?
Your ABS light will appear on the dyno because the PCM freaks out when it sees the rear wheels moving but the front ones not.
You should not under any circumstances be getting an ABS light after a suspension install. I've ran coilovers on my RX8 for over a year and had the car very low for quite a while and never saw an ABS light.
As I mentioned, I would start by checking the various cables that you might to move out of the way and make sure they are secure and go from there.
02-06-2009, 03:55 AM
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Its most likely a sensor or a cable.....when i was having my lower control arm replaced i recalled this sensor I cant remember the exact place but I believed i leaned on it on accident and became loose. I havent got a chance to check it out becasu the low jack, the one that'l actually fit under the car is missing.....
.......but turning the steering wheel did not help so its most likely the physical component that is the issue.
.......but turning the steering wheel did not help so its most likely the physical component that is the issue.
02-12-2009, 06:18 PM
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I've got the same issue.
Happened after I dynoed. The first time on the dyno, the lights went away on their own after a few days. This time seems more permanent. I may take a peak at my cables and connectors, but I'm 100% sure my problem is dyno related.
Just wish it would reset already, the eshaft reset and steering angle reset haven't worked for me.
Happened after I dynoed. The first time on the dyno, the lights went away on their own after a few days. This time seems more permanent. I may take a peak at my cables and connectors, but I'm 100% sure my problem is dyno related.
Just wish it would reset already, the eshaft reset and steering angle reset haven't worked for me.
10-14-2009, 09:22 AM
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This happen to me when my friend installed my springs on my AT and on my MT. Its norm. Also happen to me when I put my MT on the dyno.
Now heres what ya do; Get in your car, turn the key on but dont start the car yet. Pump the brake peddle as many times as fast as you can. You will see the oil gauge move to the center then back down.
Take the key out. Why I dont know I just do.
Then start your car.
Turn your wheels all the way to the left then all the way to the right then back to center.
Your lights should go off.
-Gil
Now heres what ya do; Get in your car, turn the key on but dont start the car yet. Pump the brake peddle as many times as fast as you can. You will see the oil gauge move to the center then back down.
Take the key out. Why I dont know I just do.
Then start your car.
Turn your wheels all the way to the left then all the way to the right then back to center.
Your lights should go off.
-Gil
10-14-2009, 09:44 AM
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If your issue is the same as the op's (nice bump btw) then disconnecting the battery won't solve the problem if there is an issue with your ABS sensors, wires, or fuse.
When you did the suspension install did you remove the ball joinnt on the lower a-arm or did you remove the upper a-arm and swing the front assemply out? If you removed the upper a-arm bolts it is possible that you swung the front out too far and pulled the harness out of the sensor. Check both sides to be sure.
In the rear the ABS wire can get in the way unless you unbolt it from the body. Make sure you did not disconnect the rears either.
Pop your wheels off and check both fronts and rears.
The ABS and traction control are tied into each other, that's why both lights are on. Pop the hood of your car and pop the fuse panel cover. There is a 60 amp fuse in the fuse panel. On the underside of your fusebox cover there are labels that say which fuse is what. Pull the ABS fuse and make sure it isn't blown.
If one of the sensors are unplugged or the fuse is shot, plug them in or replace the fuse. Once you replace the fuse/plug sensor back in and take the car about 5-10mph the lights will turn off if everything is working properly. You don't need to do any special reset to get the lights to turn off.
When you did the suspension install did you remove the ball joinnt on the lower a-arm or did you remove the upper a-arm and swing the front assemply out? If you removed the upper a-arm bolts it is possible that you swung the front out too far and pulled the harness out of the sensor. Check both sides to be sure.
In the rear the ABS wire can get in the way unless you unbolt it from the body. Make sure you did not disconnect the rears either.
Pop your wheels off and check both fronts and rears.
The ABS and traction control are tied into each other, that's why both lights are on. Pop the hood of your car and pop the fuse panel cover. There is a 60 amp fuse in the fuse panel. On the underside of your fusebox cover there are labels that say which fuse is what. Pull the ABS fuse and make sure it isn't blown.
If one of the sensors are unplugged or the fuse is shot, plug them in or replace the fuse. Once you replace the fuse/plug sensor back in and take the car about 5-10mph the lights will turn off if everything is working properly. You don't need to do any special reset to get the lights to turn off.
10-14-2009, 11:46 AM
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If your issue is the same as the op's (nice bump btw) then disconnecting the battery won't solve the problem if there is an issue with your ABS sensors, wires, or fuse.
When you did the suspension install did you remove the ball joinnt on the lower a-arm or did you remove the upper a-arm and swing the front assemply out? If you removed the upper a-arm bolts it is possible that you swung the front out too far and pulled the harness out of the sensor. Check both sides to be sure.
In the rear the ABS wire can get in the way unless you unbolt it from the body. Make sure you did not disconnect the rears either.
Pop your wheels off and check both fronts and rears.
The ABS and traction control are tied into each other, that's why both lights are on. Pop the hood of your car and pop the fuse panel cover. There is a 60 amp fuse in the fuse panel. On the underside of your fusebox cover there are labels that say which fuse is what. Pull the ABS fuse and make sure it isn't blown.
If one of the sensors are unplugged or the fuse is shot, plug them in or replace the fuse. Once you replace the fuse/plug sensor back in and take the car about 5-10mph the lights will turn off if everything is working properly. You don't need to do any special reset to get the lights to turn off.
When you did the suspension install did you remove the ball joinnt on the lower a-arm or did you remove the upper a-arm and swing the front assemply out? If you removed the upper a-arm bolts it is possible that you swung the front out too far and pulled the harness out of the sensor. Check both sides to be sure.
In the rear the ABS wire can get in the way unless you unbolt it from the body. Make sure you did not disconnect the rears either.
Pop your wheels off and check both fronts and rears.
The ABS and traction control are tied into each other, that's why both lights are on. Pop the hood of your car and pop the fuse panel cover. There is a 60 amp fuse in the fuse panel. On the underside of your fusebox cover there are labels that say which fuse is what. Pull the ABS fuse and make sure it isn't blown.
If one of the sensors are unplugged or the fuse is shot, plug them in or replace the fuse. Once you replace the fuse/plug sensor back in and take the car about 5-10mph the lights will turn off if everything is working properly. You don't need to do any special reset to get the lights to turn off.
Alright, Thanks, Im prolly gonna see if they can delete it at advanced auto 1st since I have to go back there to bring the spring compressor back anyways, and I wanna just try the easiest method first I will also check the fuse, if thats blown does it mean something is definitley disconnected? The thought of taking my rims off againnnnnn.... weewwww argh def dont wanna do that right away
10-14-2009, 12:03 PM
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If it is the ABS and Traction control light that is lit, they can't clear it at Advanced like you would be able to clear a CEL.
If the fuse isn't blown then one of a couple things are wrong
Either:
A) something came disconnetced (aka harness from the ABS sensors at the wheels)
B) Damaged abs sensor or harness
C) Damaged abs control module
D) somthing is wrong with the traction control
I wouldn't worry about C or D to be honest though. More than likely one of the harnesses came disconnected from the sensor itself (unplugged) or by some freak chance there was too much pressure on a wire and it got pulled out of the pigtail on the harness.
Double check the all the harnesses that go to the ABS sensors on all the hubs. It's a singular black wire that runs from the body to the sensor that is behind the rotor. Make sure they are all plugged in and snug.
If the fuse isn't blown then one of a couple things are wrong
Either:
A) something came disconnetced (aka harness from the ABS sensors at the wheels)
B) Damaged abs sensor or harness
C) Damaged abs control module
D) somthing is wrong with the traction control
I wouldn't worry about C or D to be honest though. More than likely one of the harnesses came disconnected from the sensor itself (unplugged) or by some freak chance there was too much pressure on a wire and it got pulled out of the pigtail on the harness.
Double check the all the harnesses that go to the ABS sensors on all the hubs. It's a singular black wire that runs from the body to the sensor that is behind the rotor. Make sure they are all plugged in and snug.
10-15-2009, 03:21 AM
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Yeah in my case it was the sensor just take off the wheels and make sure the sensor is snug, have someone watch your dashboard while you fiddle around with it, if it happens to be loose on a particular side the light on the dash will go away. Simple as that, well in my case
10-17-2009, 04:25 PM
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well everything looked like it was in place... tried all the tricks I hadnt yet like holding the odometer reset w/ key on position til it said test and stuff. I tried pushing everything snug nothing looked stressed. On the rear driverside what is that square unit that the wires hang into?? And also I noticed my rear sway linkages got bent from after I lowered it, is that normal with this car??
10-17-2009, 04:36 PM
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this has the picture of the square unit I just reffered to it says 3e20 on it and its yellow
http://www.nyxracing.com/agency-powe...7.html?image=0
http://www.nyxracing.com/agency-powe...7.html?image=0
10-19-2009, 08:30 AM
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The "square unit" is your rear auto-leveling headalight sensor. You have one on your drivers side front too that connects to the lower a-arm.
What do you mean the linkages are bent? Like, your endlinks are physically bent, or they aren't sitting perpendicular to the ground? If it's that they aren't sitting perpendicular to the ground, it's probaby because you are too lowcausing the rear lower control arm to pitch upwards, thus making the endlinks sit crooked.
What do you mean the linkages are bent? Like, your endlinks are physically bent, or they aren't sitting perpendicular to the ground? If it's that they aren't sitting perpendicular to the ground, it's probaby because you are too lowcausing the rear lower control arm to pitch upwards, thus making the endlinks sit crooked.
10-20-2009, 05:05 AM
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The endlinks are actually bent! Yea its weird I onlt lowered it with the s. techs so thats only 0.8 inches in the back, I have no idea what happened there... The bar in the middle of the 2 bushings r like at a 45 degree bend now. Im going to mazda today for my transmission 2 b flushed imma ask them about my dsc light an stability light being on....crap...
10-20-2009, 08:33 AM
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What kind of swaybars do you have on the car? Also, did you put the endlinks on correctly? If you replaced the sway bar and put it on wrong it will bend the endlinks.
If it is just the the DSC light and the Traction control light on, then you can fix that really easily.
If you disconnect the battery you have to reset the DSC. It's actually explained in the owners manual. Turn the key to on, but don't start the car. Next, turn the wheel all the way to the right lock, then all the way to the left lock, then back to center. Turn the car off, then turn the car on and the DSC will be reset.
This will not clear an ABS light though.
If it is just the the DSC light and the Traction control light on, then you can fix that really easily.
If you disconnect the battery you have to reset the DSC. It's actually explained in the owners manual. Turn the key to on, but don't start the car. Next, turn the wheel all the way to the right lock, then all the way to the left lock, then back to center. Turn the car off, then turn the car on and the DSC will be reset.
This will not clear an ABS light though.
10-20-2009, 12:35 PM
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What kind of swaybars do you have on the car? Also, did you put the endlinks on correctly? If you replaced the sway bar and put it on wrong it will bend the endlinks.
If it is just the the DSC light and the Traction control light on, then you can fix that really easily.
If you disconnect the battery you have to reset the DSC. It's actually explained in the owners manual. Turn the key to on, but don't start the car. Next, turn the wheel all the way to the right lock, then all the way to the left lock, then back to center. Turn the car off, then turn the car on and the DSC will be reset.
This will not clear an ABS light though.
If it is just the the DSC light and the Traction control light on, then you can fix that really easily.
If you disconnect the battery you have to reset the DSC. It's actually explained in the owners manual. Turn the key to on, but don't start the car. Next, turn the wheel all the way to the right lock, then all the way to the left lock, then back to center. Turn the car off, then turn the car on and the DSC will be reset.
This will not clear an ABS light though.
Its a stock sway bar, and its only lowered 0.8 inches in the back, it is the abs light, its at mazda now, its also the light that shows the sguigily line which I guess is the stability control light. I tried that trick, the press the brake pad 21 times trick and just taking the battery off for a couple mins with the key on the on position, none of them worked, so now they r going to diagnose it, and if they tell me the problem and I can fix it I will, but the endlinks still have me bewildered... Maybye b/c I tightened them before there was any weight on the tire (or a jack pressing up on the lower control arm) b/c I put them back on with the car jacked up from the differential. Hey also everyone, they said the car got a free recall for reprogramming the pcm for power loss.
10-20-2009, 04:54 PM
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Ok so front brake harness is no good, anyone know where to get that? advance discount cant get it, and I dont see it when I google search it or ebay search it. Still clueless on endlinks and why there bent. Also does that PCU recall mean they replaced it or was it reprogrammed? (it was a recall b/c of powerloss mine seemed fine, hope it didnt lose power)
10-20-2009, 06:23 PM
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They just performed what is known as a flash to the PCM, which is nothing more than updating the software.
Try mazmart.com for the brake harness. Might wanna get some new endlinks as well.
Try mazmart.com for the brake harness. Might wanna get some new endlinks as well.
10-21-2009, 05:06 AM
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Yea I emailed mazparts yesterday, he didnt respond yet, when I get new endlinks should I put a jack under the lower control arm while it up? or what process could I take so the new endlinks dont bend? Thanks every1
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