Here's the Google version vs the suckie Bing version... little better xlation and detail... they seem to be most concerned with carbon deposits.

 

Skipping the synthetic debate for the moment, OP: was there any evidence of rodent activity during storage? Even if not, I'd check the air inlet tube (dunno which CAI you have) for it. Of course they can also raise havoc by chewing through wires. Upon attempting to restart, did you hear the fuel pump run? Probably not if you went straight from "off" to "start", but if one first pauses with the key in the "on" position, you should be able to hear the whirr of the pump for a couple of seconds (then shut shut itself off) as it builds fuel pressure. No sound at all indicates either the motor is completely fried (unlikely) or that there's an interlock preventing it from running. One "infant death" thing I've run across occasionally is the rollover switch failing. Of course it could be a lot of other things too.

 

i've been running synthetic oil for the past 100,000 miles, it works just fine

 

Seems as though I started a debate, lol, which is fine because i'm really interested myself in the topic of synthetic or not.

In any case , as far as the problem with the car itself, after getting the plugs in the guy called me and said it's the fuel pump . Ordered a fuel pump and went to put it in today, only to find out that the GAS TANK was empty because the FUEL GAUGE was broke. I hadn't noticed the gas gauge not moving because I haven't really drove the car except a time or two this year. Maybe it's just me but wouldn't you put some fresh gas in the car atleast when someone had just told you it's gas from Oct / Nov ??? I remember thinking it's strange to have the fuel pump go at 9 k miles, so I'm glad it's not the fuel pump, but now I have to wait for them to fix the gas gauge.

 

I don't mean to laugh at your misfortune....but it does appear that in the end it WAS a fuel quality problem....of a sort


Perfectly reasonable explanation, as usual

 

This is the first time I heard about anyone's fuel gauge to stop working... especially at such a low mileage.

So, you DID run out of gas after all

 

I like how the very first reply was the correct answer.

 

lol.

 

Rofl

 

that has happened to me also--the wire that cross's over in the tank to the sender can somehow get tangled with the float and cause the gas gauge to read 1/2 full or so when it is empty.

 

Yep .... that's exactly where it was at

 

LOL ... no prob ... funny how things end up.

 

So it was the same problem I had years back. They replaced my whole tank though but that may have been an excuse to bill Mazda for the warranty work. But basically that is what happened, it showed half a tank but was empty.

 

I'm sorry but its not in MY 2005 MANUAL.

oh yeah, its always easier to say NO ...

Its funny that they say "engine starting performance could worsen" when Synthetic oil actually more slippery so things will turn "easier"

 

Hahahahaha.
This was my first reading of "ran out of gas" story in the half decade I've been on this forum.

Man, broken fuel gauge. On our cars, you should get suspicious real quick if the gauge stops moving, since it normally moves down pretty fast.

 

Exactly. It's a good idea to reset the trip odometer each time at gas up, and monitor fuel consumption. If the needle doesn't budge after 50 miles or so of driving, you'll immediately know something isn't right.


.

 

my fuel gauge i reading full tank after 100 miles. i might need to get this fixed. How much did they charge to fix the fuel gauge

 

11ty billion dollars.

Call your shop and ask them.
Shop rates are different from location to location.

They won't be the same in Manhattan NYC as they are in Manhattan Kansas.

BC.

 

5w-20 castrol starts up cold/warm SO much faster compared to the idemitsu synthetic 10w-30 I had in there. I guess it may just be the viscosity difference but I am going to stick to the castrol 5w-20 after hearing the difference. I didnt think that oil really would affect starting performance, but the warm starts are like complete night and day for me.

 

Have you considered that there are 2 different oil weight ratings listed?

Perhaps going with a 5w40 or 0w40 solves both issues, start up weight and hot temp weight....


(ignoring that NYCGPS said that over a year ago in this thread, because he will still tell you that again today )

 

I choose my shoes by the squeak they make on a tile floor, so that start up noise determining oil choice seems legit.