kr5and

I bought a used 2004 rx8 in March of 2012 from a privet owner in Chicago. From what I can tell the warrenty for the 2004 engine expired already. When I got it the car ran ok but after about a month it started to die on ocasion while ideling. Over the past few months it got worse and worse to the point that now it will not stay on with out the rpms over 1500. It is a 6 speed manual so I have been driving it with constant acceliration and switching it into nutral.
If you start it in the morning when its cold and has not been on it starts right up and idles for about 2-3 min before dieing. After driving it more than 30ft if you let off the gas pedal it will drop down to below 1000rpm and stale out and die. Once the car dies it will then not start up. It will turn over and you can hear it about to start but if you give it any gas it dies again. If you push the accelerator down just as it starts to turn over on occasion it will start back up. If you let it sit for 20-30 min it is easer to start this way. I have already replaced the spark plugs, wires and coils. It did have a check engine code of piston 2 misfire but that’s the only thing other than the well known engine coolant light that comes on and off. Another strange thing I have noticed is that the Engine coolant light now comes on while in 1st gear when before it would only come on while in gear 3 or 4. Also I think that the engine coolant light is on more often but it go’s off and back on with no resin or direct cause. I have a feeling that the issue is compression and is similar to the hot start issues stated in other areas. I have an appointment for a compression test at a dealer in Evanston. I bought the car for $7,500 and could not afford to put a new engine at this point as I have only made 5 payments on the loan I took out on the car to date. I thought about getting a warranty direct maintenance plane but some one told me that if you take it to a dealer before you have the plan that they can see it failed the compression test online under the vin. Please give me some advice as to how to fix my engine with out costing me thousands of dollars. I can afford the warranty direct payment and It would also cover other things on the car for the next 5 years so I think that it would be a good idea. Let me know if there is some place that can fix the engine for cheep in Chicago or if you have any advice. Owned the car 5 months and have not had much luck.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, your engine is pretty much done.

Cheapest option is to pull the engine yourself and install the new one yourself with a used engine you find here on the forums (or places like ebay, that I wouldn't trust).

Somewhat more expensive, but REALLY varying is the "rebuild it yourself" option, but it's not something I'd recommend unless you know what you are doing. And if you find anything else that needs replacing as you tear it down can easily crank the cost higher than the cost of just buying an engine to begin with.

The cheapest of the solid / good engines is from Mazmart, at around $3-3.5k

Dealer engines are lower quality, and usually higher cost.




That compression test pre-purchase is pretty important

gorx8

even with the compression test, reman engine only last so long (read somewhere here), isnt it?

djfa

iTrader: (3)

remans can last a long time. Its pretty much a hit or miss on those things

kr5and

So update to the post. I brought it in to a dealership and had the compression test done. It failed for both rotors. 1 all the way and the second was almost all the way. So they said that there was also a broken coil pack but I just had them installed by another machanic not the dealership. The dealership said that the car had after market co2 sensors and the cat was also aftermarket. If I replace the engine for 3500 and maybe replace the cat back converter for 1100 I could still have issues with other parts after that.

Only thing I can note is that when starting it hot if you add a little gas it starts back up. I dont quite understand what that dose to make it any differnt. But to me it wont idel at all and it dosent start once its hot unless you give it just a tiny amount of gas. then it starts. At this point from what I can tell online I would just be better off with a differnt car. I am going to sell the car for around $4300 and hopfully buy a junker till I can afford to pay off the $7500 loan: ( . So if any one in chicago wants to put in a Engine on a silver 2004 rx8 with mods and twin cat back converter and k&h intake let me know. Car Blue books at 8500 so if you buy it for $4300 ( new wires,plugs,coil packs) and put the 3000 engine in you will have the car for like 1300 under value. I should have been more carefull when looking for cars but I guess we live and learn.

djfa

iTrader: (3)

Oh gosh! I was following your post, I was curious to see what happened.

What a horror story Im sorry the ex owned ripped you off. And you even took a loan on it? I would suggest you call Mazda North America and ask for help. Since you just bought the car a few months back, its not your fault. Sometimes when a customer speaks to them, they give out freebies. You can split the cost of a new engine etc....

gorx8

can compression test tell if the seals are worn (not crack, worn/really old/about to crack)? i know if seals are crack, compression test will fail. How about "about to crack" seals? anyway to test for it?

kr5and

So Mazda will not fix it due to it being the 3rd owner and that the last onwer put after market exhost and co2 sensors and air intake and other performance parts in the engine. They said that the warrenty was void any way and would not honor it. So I am going to try to find some one in Chicago that will rebuild and replace the seals. The engine is still running so I feel that it could just be bad seals and maybe a catalytic converter. Let me know if any one knows a VERY reliable place to rebuild the engine in Chicago. I would apreciate any help that I can get. I am going to take a personal loan out to pay for the repairs. Also if any one has any suggestions as to parts to put in it that will make it run better or longer that would be great. I know I am going to put new belts and pullys. I might add new transmition and cluch while I am at it. I want to repalce as much as possible while I have the engine out so that I dont have to do anything to it major for a while other than oil and tune up. Any one know anything else like fuel pumps or what not that starts to go out between 70-100 ,000 miles. I could really use some help on this one a little over my head. Thanks

xexok

You do not want to go for a half-assed rebuild, either go all the way or do nothing and sell the car. It would save you money right now and end up costing you a full rebuild later on so you may as well just do it right the first time.