Got a questiong. I is ok to splice signal wires and then solder them together? By signal wires I mean the wires going and coming from the ecu. I got an idea to relocate the ecu to where the wiper fluid bottle was and the steering ecu behind the front crash bar.

 

Dumbest idea ever. Okay maybe not the dumbest ever but still dumb.

 

You asking for more trouble than it worth.....really.

 

Your telling me! Man look at this mess.
anyway back to the question at hand.
Is it an issue to solder ecu wires?

O and 9K your post real helpfull! Thanks a lot buddy.

 

Okay, I'll be helpful. You do realize that the ECU needs cooling right? That is the why there is a fresh air duct that feeds it. IF you accomplish this and your car is still drivable, how will you cool the ECU other electronics? Why are you doing this anyway?

 

Imho , you already started wrong.

 

I was planning on having air come in through a hole on the side.
And I'm really doing this because I drove my car honestly like one or two weeks during the summer. And If I'm going to treat it as a trailer queen might as well have it resemble one.

 

How so?

 

I'm not going to say whether you could solder it or not......and I know how to solder very well........NASA certified.
We know this car is very, very sensitive to all kinds of resistances in legs all over the car, so if you don't get this exactly right(assuming you can), then you could be hunting gremlins for a long @ss time.
How much wire length are you planning on adding?

 

About 3 or 4 feet. And I'll be extending the wire loom coming from the drivers side of the car, which I believe comes from the fuse box.

 

You should start by cleaning that engine bay not by relocating your ECU to where you are relocating it. This makes no sense to me but hey it's your car. If you are dead set on continuing down this path then i suggest you search and read the other wire tuck threads first because this has been discussed at length in those threads.

 

You are opening yourself up to potential nightmares in electrical faults........I wouldn't do it...but if you do you had better get good with a crimp tool and heat shrink

 

jaja I know. Living in the dessert sucks!

 

Thanks got those.

 

Different Question, why do you want more air?

 

I would advise against this. This car is very sensitive to any voltage/resistance variances. Ask me how i know?
As much as I like the way a tucked bay looks---i think you will end up regretting the decision to cut the pcm harness. cant you get away with tucking the other stuff and leave the pcm alone?

 

^.........what's the matter......your present situation(issue you're working on) got you all concerned?

Sorry, couldn't resist. I'm still trying to figure out how I might lend assistance there. But, I of course agree with your position on this.

 

Crimp tool..........yikes, you better be damn good with that and use the right crimps! I'd also solder them after crimping, but you have to be extra careful doing that.
I still wouldn't do this unless this is just a project car or a show car. Anything else, as I said before .......really asking for a boatload of trouble.

 

Crimp is better...but if not done properly the solder is a better bet.

Any sensors that are impedance sensitive can have problems adding wire to circuits...especially with multiple joints that may add even more resistance

 

Please, can you elaborate?

You know I may just leave the ecu alone and focus on the fuse box. At the moment the power steering ecu is out of the box (the box where the ecu & the steering ecu where) and under the front crash bar.

 

After researching on the interweb (google) I'll be soldering instead of crimping.
I've found a site with a good method of soldering I ignored.

http://jaguar.professional.org/electrics/splicing.php

Liked the way they looped the hair of cooper around to make it tight.

 

just for chuckles--take 2 sparkplug wires--the same kind with the connectors on it. Have one 6 inches longer than the other. Measure the resistance of the wires.
Increased length of a wire will cause it to have more resistance. Now multiply that times all the wires you are speaking off and maybe you can see how easy it can be to get into a problem? The pcm uses an expected amount of resistance in some of its systems checks. If that gets off--you have a problem.
Also many systems in this car operate on very low voltage, if that voltage varies only by a very small amount you also have problems.
Then after a problem surfaces--trying to find out exactly what the actual problem is can be as Dan said...a nightmare.
Now moving that fusebox is something i have always wanted to do!
Lol Maz --i do learn!!
Slowly getting a better handle on it!

 

Is there a verbose version of that page?

Ken

 

LOL that is overkill

 

I did it on mine, BUT ( thats a big BUT right there), my car is NOT a daily driver, my engine is totally controlled by a Haltech, and my airbag which is the one that really matters to me is gone ( NRG steering wheel). SO with that said. I cant really give you any realistic advice. Sorry
I have a pic of how it was and how it is..