You've been researching on biased sites. Try some of the urls I posted earlier to get the opposing view.

Most of the current 5w-20 semi-syn's have superior base stocks and additives vs the widely available 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils.

Most 30 wt oils sheer down to a 20 wt within 1000 miles. Whats the difference between running a 30->20 and a 20->20. There isn't any.

I don't know much about the FD...but most recommendations involving people throwing out the 50-60 wt heavy sluggers are based on someone before them doing the same thing, and before them, and before them...with little or no actual analysis of the oil or wear going on. I.E. People are just following recommendations of people before them without any scientific backing or evidence to support the use of the product/weight.

I highly recommend a dyson analysis when trying to find out the best weight/viscosity/oil for your application, as you might find running a lighter weight oil not only results in better engine wear, but increased power and mileage to boot, as well as lower oil temps. On the contrary, you might find a heavier weight oil, with an additive such as LC (Lube Control, an anti-oxidant) or VSOT (Vavoline Synpower Oil Treatment, Moly/Boron Additive), provides the best protection for your particular application.

The 8 also might be a really good canidate for FP60 (fuel power, not octane booster bs!!), considering the way the fuel system works.

 

so 5W-30 is ok? If i were to change the oil myself, how much oil do I put in?

 

How about some real world analysis.........

I have 73k miles on my 8. I have HAD ZERO engine problems. I have also auto-x ed the car. I have used predominantly 5W-20 oil. Only two times did I ever use 5W-30. I tried the 5-30 for various reasons... mostly b/c of the same concerns addressed in this thread. I thought it would be better. I was wrong.

The car runs much better on the 5W-20 and gets better gas mileage. The motor made a very faint, high pitched chirping noise at idle with the 30.

 

There are no problems running 5W20, 5W30, 10W30, 20W50, etc. They all do their job and call all be used. If you've used a different weight don't sweat it.

 

Aw man! I had my oil changed, and the guy used 10w30 intead of 5w20 like I asked him. I went and changed my own oil a few days later. Bought a new filter too! Lame.

 

I think the case of mobile 1 synthetic is 0w-20 and they said it was recommended by Honda and Ford for the 5w-20 oil or something similar.

 

From what I've been reading lately, strict coolant hygiene may be more important than strict oil hygeine (other than not running out) for rotary engines.

 

Functionally there is no difference between 5W20 and 0W20. At operating temperature they are the same weight. It would have to be very cold before it mattered. It's just like 5W30, 10W30, and 30W are all the same weight oil at operating temperature. Ignore the low number.

 

All these numbers that confused people might just go away and be replaced with another system (a triangle with three values: min temp for winter, shear stability, and fuel economy).

 

be careful, maybe he lives in the arctic circle

 

I've always heard it is best to use the lowest w number you can because at start up even a 0w is too thick. Since 90% of engine wear occurs while the engine is still heating up, becuase the oil is too thick, you can minimize this by going thinner for the W part. Since it doesn't matter at operating temps what w level you use, there shouldn't be any reason not too use a 0w-30.