Where can I get the new coil packs @ 25 bux each ?
03-05-2007, 02:02 PM
#52
So far the only "upgrade" that might be worth the price are the new factory coils. Other than that anything else is either too new to tell or way too expensive. Vivid has the best price, so far, for the Okada Plasma coils but if you look closely at the photo it seems they have taken the technology from the old Nology wires and put it on the coils this time. I am not convinced, yet, and I seem to remember that the Nology wires caused issues with the factory coils(as in burned them). I could be wrong, though. Anybody else remember?
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 03-05-2007 at 02:04 PM.
03-05-2007, 03:16 PM
#53
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
So far the only "upgrade" that might be worth the price are the new factory coils. Other than that anything else is either too new to tell or way too expensive. Vivid has the best price, so far, for the Okada Plasma coils but if you look closely at the photo it seems they have taken the technology from the old Nology wires and put it on the coils this time. I am not convinced, yet, and I seem to remember that the Nology wires caused issues with the factory coils(as in burned them). I could be wrong, though. Anybody else remember?
ordered the RB one in the end, as soon as its here Im gonna replace the stock wires and plugs with these new wires and new plugs that I brought a while ago.
I think the new factory coil is well worth it, I mean its only like 110 for all 4 ship to your doors, that would be at least another 25K of worry-free driving.
03-05-2007, 09:24 PM
#55
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I already ordered the upgraded coils and now I'm debating between OEM wires or RB. Kinnda leaning towards RB since they have yet to let me down (Revi, duct, and exhaust)
thoughts?
thoughts?
03-05-2007, 11:24 PM
#56
Originally Posted by nt5k
Ok.. Dealer found nothing wrong with the coils cause the 'computer' didn't bring up anything..
Is there a DIY on how to test them myself?
Is there a DIY on how to test them myself?
Well, You can try to pull the coils out yourself and see if u can locate any burn mark on the back of the coil, my old one has only about 26K miles on them, but its already pretty *bad* shape, as you can see in my earlier post which you can find it HERE, its alot worst than what you see in the picture. Here is a close up.
Notice the middle ? just pull one out and if u see something like this in the middle , talk to your dealer and say look, *its not normal to have burn marks* right ? see if they want to do anything.
Im too lazy and dont want to deal with dealers thats why I would rather pay out of my pocket.
Last edited by nycgps; 03-05-2007 at 11:31 PM.
03-06-2007, 03:33 AM
#57
Originally Posted by nycgps
@ that kind of price, If I wanna go, I would go like the way MM did, go for AEM or something.
there you go again, taking one piece of info you read on the forum way back when and then spreading it around as gospel without ever following up on the final result
the only thing you're spreading though is organic fertilizer i.e. bull dookey 
fwiw, he took the AEM ignition off, it doesn't work on the RX-8
let me repeat: AEM DOESN"T WORK ON THE RX-8, can you hear me now ...
One of the few, maybe even the only one, that does work on the RX-8 is the HKS Twin Power, funny that you don't know anything about that one
03-06-2007, 05:57 AM
#58
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
there you go again, taking one piece of info you read on the forum way back when and then spreading it around as gospel without ever following up on the final result the only thing you're spreading though is organic fertilizer i.e. bull dookey
fwiw, he took the AEM ignition off, it doesn't work on the RX-8
let me repeat: AEM DOESN"T WORK ON THE RX-8, can you hear me now ...
One of the few, maybe even the only one, that does work on the RX-8 is the HKS Twin Power, funny that you don't know anything about that one
the only thing you're spreading though is organic fertilizer i.e. bull dookey fwiw, he took the AEM ignition off, it doesn't work on the RX-8
let me repeat: AEM DOESN"T WORK ON THE RX-8, can you hear me now ...
One of the few, maybe even the only one, that does work on the RX-8 is the HKS Twin Power, funny that you don't know anything about that one
I know the AEM does NOT work with Rx-8, Hell I look at this site more than my GF .... joking man ! just kidding !!!!!!!!!!!!!
but my point is that, I would rather try something thats *different* and more *complete*
GrrrrrrrrrRRr Sorry if I confuses you and everybody.
We're still cool right ?
I posted HKS a while ago, but its too expensive IMO.
Last edited by nycgps; 03-06-2007 at 06:07 AM.
03-06-2007, 10:26 AM
#59
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nycgps: couldn't you request reimbursement from MNAO for those coils? Since there's something obviously wrong with them...
03-06-2007, 11:13 AM
#60
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Notice the middle ? just pull one out and if u see something like this in the middle , talk to your dealer and say look, *its not normal to have burn marks* right ? see if they want to do anything.
Im too lazy and dont want to deal with dealers thats why I would rather pay out of my pocket.
Im too lazy and dont want to deal with dealers thats why I would rather pay out of my pocket.
03-06-2007, 11:25 AM
#61
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Originally Posted by nt5k
Yeah, I'll try that. If I let them die on their own, are there any consequences to the rest of the car? Other than it not running and it being a bigger hassle having to flatbed the car there..
Then when the rest go bad you have to waist more time dealing with issues. Fixing it yourself is a much better investment in time.
03-06-2007, 02:28 PM
#63
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If you all locate good/costeffective aftermarket coils please post. Or maybe a DIY fix. I will probably need to change mine out soon.
Approaching 30K soon.
Approaching 30K soon.
03-07-2007, 03:18 AM
#65
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
fwiw, he took the AEM ignition off, it doesn't work on the RX-8
let me repeat: AEM DOESN"T WORK ON THE RX-8, can you hear me now ...
let me repeat: AEM DOESN"T WORK ON THE RX-8, can you hear me now ...
The real problem is that the unit itself sucks. After less than 9 months, it started blowing its own fuse just like the older AEM C2DI did before the redesign.
I sent it back.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
One of the few, maybe even the only one, that does work on the RX-8 is the HKS Twin Power, funny that you don't know anything about that one
If your coils are failing, a module like the HKS will just fail them faster.
FWIW, brand new OEM coils start to develop "burn" marks on the potting immediately. They will look like they do in the pics in this thread within a few hundred miles.
I'm not convinced that these "burn" marks mean anything.
The only conclusive test is to take a good VOM to the connector.
03-07-2007, 03:32 AM
#66
I'm not even convinced they're burn marks, most of the ones I've seen look more like deposits from moisture/condensation being burned off to me
I wash my engine bay regularly, I'm sure water is getting under there ...
I don't see that they're all that different in general concept 
I wash my engine bay regularly, I'm sure water is getting under there ...
The Twin Power ignition amplifier integrates Capacity Discharge Ignition (CDI) and transistor ignition technology to offer improved throttle response and smoother engine performance by providing optimal spark duration and maximum voltage output. The CDI technology provides maximum voltage by transferring all stored energy in the capacitor to the ignition coil so the ignition current can build quickly, making the Twin Power very effective at higher revs where a normal spark would diminish.
The strong, rapid spark prevents high rpm ignition miss that reduces peak power. The transistorized method generates high voltage by using transistors to cut off current to the coil, allowing a long energy discharge. This longer spark duration allows the Twin Power to improve lower RPM throttle response and torque. The Twin Power produces a spark output that is typically 1.5-2.5 stronger than a stock ignition system and consumes about 35% less power than other ignition amplifiers. Twin Power DLI, Distributor and Rotary types are CARB exempt (E.O. #D-186-22). The Twin Power DLI II is pending CARB exemption.
The strong, rapid spark prevents high rpm ignition miss that reduces peak power. The transistorized method generates high voltage by using transistors to cut off current to the coil, allowing a long energy discharge. This longer spark duration allows the Twin Power to improve lower RPM throttle response and torque. The Twin Power produces a spark output that is typically 1.5-2.5 stronger than a stock ignition system and consumes about 35% less power than other ignition amplifiers. Twin Power DLI, Distributor and Rotary types are CARB exempt (E.O. #D-186-22). The Twin Power DLI II is pending CARB exemption.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-07-2007 at 03:38 AM.
03-07-2007, 07:36 AM
#67
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Well, it "works" on the RX-8, but you can't use it without an engine management computer like the Int-X or the EMU. The dwell ends up being wrong and leads to overly-advanced timing as you go up the RPM range.
The real problem is that the unit itself sucks. After less than 9 months, it started blowing its own fuse just like the older AEM C2DI did before the redesign.
I sent it back.
The HKS is just a conditioner. It still uses the OEM coils and expects them to be in peak condition to do its thing.
If your coils are failing, a module like the HKS will just fail them faster.
FWIW, brand new OEM coils start to develop "burn" marks on the potting immediately. They will look like they do in the pics in this thread within a few hundred miles.
I'm not convinced that these "burn" marks mean anything.
The only conclusive test is to take a good VOM to the connector.
The real problem is that the unit itself sucks. After less than 9 months, it started blowing its own fuse just like the older AEM C2DI did before the redesign.
I sent it back.
The HKS is just a conditioner. It still uses the OEM coils and expects them to be in peak condition to do its thing.
If your coils are failing, a module like the HKS will just fail them faster.
FWIW, brand new OEM coils start to develop "burn" marks on the potting immediately. They will look like they do in the pics in this thread within a few hundred miles.
I'm not convinced that these "burn" marks mean anything.
The only conclusive test is to take a good VOM to the connector.
I have about 200 miles on the new coils already, let me just go for another 300 miles then Im gonna take it out and see whats underneath.
03-07-2007, 09:20 AM
#68
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
you aren't going to do any better than the mid-upper $20 range each for the latest OE ones
03-07-2007, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
The new stock coils should be somewhat better.
I dont think NA cars need anything more than stock.
I dont think NA cars need anything more than stock.
I am doing what most people have not...I am building up the ignition, fuel, and cooling systems up first before I do any sort of forced induction. It will be done right and it will be reliable. So far I started with cooling...Next is a radiator then ignition.
03-07-2007, 09:44 AM
#71
Originally Posted by cavemancan
Who says I'm stayin NA...
I am doing what most people have not...I am building up the ignition, fuel, and cooling systems up first before I do any sort of forced induction. It will be done right and it will be reliable. So far I started with cooling...Next is a radiator then ignition.
I am doing what most people have not...I am building up the ignition, fuel, and cooling systems up first before I do any sort of forced induction. It will be done right and it will be reliable. So far I started with cooling...Next is a radiator then ignition.
but I started outside first .... cuz its alot easier :D
Now Im done with the outside .... next move would be flywheel/clutch
then it would be cooling ... and so on.
03-07-2007, 09:58 AM
#72
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Isnt that what you suppose to do ?
but I started outside first .... cuz its alot easier :D
Now Im done with the outside .... next move would be flywheel/clutch
then it would be cooling ... and so on.
but I started outside first .... cuz its alot easier :D
Now Im done with the outside .... next move would be flywheel/clutch
then it would be cooling ... and so on.
03-10-2007, 05:23 PM
#73
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Installed the new coils today. Wow, car is back to normal now. One of the coils had some serious burn marks on the bottom, the rest didn't seem that bad. But the car fires right up now and power delivery is as it should be. RB plug wires go in next as a precaution.
I would have done a diy, but it's pretty obvious. I did have to take the airbox to get to them though.
I would have done a diy, but it's pretty obvious. I did have to take the airbox to get to them though.
03-12-2007, 11:42 AM
#74
Originally Posted by nt5k
Installed the new coils today. Wow, car is back to normal now. One of the coils had some serious burn marks on the bottom, the rest didn't seem that bad. But the car fires right up now and power delivery is as it should be. RB plug wires go in next as a precaution.
I would have done a diy, but it's pretty obvious. I did have to take the airbox to get to them though.
I would have done a diy, but it's pretty obvious. I did have to take the airbox to get to them though.
no blockage ~ Total Access ~
03-12-2007, 09:33 PM
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heh.. interesting.. i wanna see how the car runs now before worrying about intakes. Just put in the RB plug wires. The car started, so that's a good sign. It seems to be idling better, revs don't fluctuate as much. Didn't have time for a drive, so we'll see how that goes later.. Saw a lot of 'white' on the plugs, but it seems that is normal according to the other thread on it.