When Do You Actually Start Topping Up Engine Oil?
07-24-2007, 12:34 AM
#1
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When Do You Actually Start Topping Up Engine Oil?
I know the manual says as long as it's between the L and H markers at driving temperature, that's OK.
But I'm just curious to know what you guys actually do it?
1. When it starts to fall a wee bit of the H marker?
2. When it is 3/4?
3. When it's 1/2?
4. When it's 1/4?
5. When it touches the L marker?
6. When (if it does) the CEL light comes on!
But I'm just curious to know what you guys actually do it?
1. When it starts to fall a wee bit of the H marker?
2. When it is 3/4?
3. When it's 1/2?
4. When it's 1/4?
5. When it touches the L marker?
6. When (if it does) the CEL light comes on!
07-24-2007, 12:55 AM
#3
Purveyor of fine bass
I check every 1000-1500 miles... typically it doesn't go lower than 1qt shy of full (which is two ticks on the dipstick). At 1000 miles, it's either .5qts lower or 3/4qts lower.
I can't imagine that waiting until the oil light is good for the engine, since that indicates oil pressure low enough to cause a the oil light.
I can't imagine that waiting until the oil light is good for the engine, since that indicates oil pressure low enough to cause a the oil light.
07-24-2007, 01:18 AM
#4
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A poll would've been nice...
I top up when it drops to 3/4. I'd rather have it topped up when I need to run to the auto store (to pickup more oil) than at 1/2 or 1/4.
I top up when it drops to 3/4. I'd rather have it topped up when I need to run to the auto store (to pickup more oil) than at 1/2 or 1/4.
07-24-2007, 04:13 AM
#8
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Same. Now and then I worry.
MM wasn't the thingie in your oil injector thingie that is supposed to keep oil from draining away from the engine stuck open? As I recall you tested it by blowing / sucking on it. It was supposed to only allow movement towards the engine.
Since it was allowing oil to drain away from the engine could that cause less / no oil to be injected?
Any change after you replaced them?
I hope you enjoyed my post MM. Dear god he is going to hurt me for this... maybe... probably...
MM wasn't the thingie in your oil injector thingie that is supposed to keep oil from draining away from the engine stuck open? As I recall you tested it by blowing / sucking on it. It was supposed to only allow movement towards the engine.
Since it was allowing oil to drain away from the engine could that cause less / no oil to be injected?
Any change after you replaced them?
I hope you enjoyed my post MM. Dear god he is going to hurt me for this... maybe... probably...
07-24-2007, 02:53 PM
#9
That is funny. Your SIG is even funnier.
The oil metering jets on a previous motor had inoperative check valves.
The jets on the current motor are normal and I test them as a group from time to time because the test is super simple. Hopefully, if one fails, I'll catch it early and will be able to measure its effect on stuff.
If you have no oil consumption like I do (don't?), you should be pre-mixing.
The oil metering jets on a previous motor had inoperative check valves.
The jets on the current motor are normal and I test them as a group from time to time because the test is super simple. Hopefully, if one fails, I'll catch it early and will be able to measure its effect on stuff.
If you have no oil consumption like I do (don't?), you should be pre-mixing.
07-24-2007, 03:38 PM
#10
Thread Pirate, Ahhrrrrr
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Thanks a lot MM, I shall go re-read the pre-mix threads as well as those other pre-mix threads, and I might even look over the don't pre-mix threads.
The car has never needed oil in ~24,000 miles. (all NA )
Here is the thread for others who want to take a gander.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...+metering+jets
And here is MM's quote for people who are worried:
I lack tools / pump / car experience. If it was a computer it would be no problem. I guess I'll have to go ask the family mech to check it.
The car has never needed oil in ~24,000 miles. (all NA )
Here is the thread for others who want to take a gander.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...+metering+jets
And here is MM's quote for people who are worried:
An easy check for anyone that is worried about this is to simply use a vacuum pump and hook it up to the hose that goes to the entire nozzle assembly. If it holds a vacuum, your nozzles are OK.
If it doesn't, you then need to get to the individual nozzles and find which ones are leaking. They are pretty well buried under the intake manifold.
If it doesn't, you then need to get to the individual nozzles and find which ones are leaking. They are pretty well buried under the intake manifold.
07-24-2007, 03:55 PM
#12
Yeah, I need one of those. I'm just too busy to pull it all apart at the moment.
Maybe in the fall...
If you can pull a good vacuum with your mouth (and you don't mind the taste of oil fumes), you can just unplug the MOP air bleed hose from the intake and suck on it.
I know that sounds nasty, but that is how I check mine. It just takes a second.
Maybe in the fall...
I know that sounds nasty, but that is how I check mine. It just takes a second.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 07-24-2007 at 03:57 PM.
07-24-2007, 04:04 PM
#13
the sohn adjuster is just $18. I didn't buy it though...
Adjuster for 3rd Gen and Renesis Gen Rotary Engine OMP
The 3rd gen RX7 engine is popular for use in experimental aircraft Using the OMP for top lubrication is an open question, because most after market EMS do not provide an output for OMP (oil metering pump) control. In the RX7 car, the OMP oil flow is controlled by the engine RPM. The pump rate control is activated by the car computer. This pump rate control is used to increase oil flow where there is an increased power demand at LOW engine RPM. This condition generally does not occur in an airplane (as we run at higher RPMs all the time). When the engine is used with an EMS with no output for OMP, the only option is to mix some oil in the fuel for top lubrication. The preferred oil used for this method is two stroke oil, due to its ability to readily mix with gasoline and lower combustion residues (when compared to regular engine oil). To overcome this draw back in aircraft used, the OMP pump rate can be fixed to a certain position and the oil flow will only change with engine RPM.
The RX7 OMP is controlled using a position stepper motor. The stepper motor may be replaced with an ADJUSTER to set the control shaft to a fixed position. In this way, the OMP is fully functional, giving an oil amount comparable to mixing the oil in the fuel. If the use of two stroke oil is desired, the ADJUSTER with the PVC OMP ADAPTOR provides a completel two-stroke-oil conversion.
The 3rd gen RX7 engine is popular for use in experimental aircraft Using the OMP for top lubrication is an open question, because most after market EMS do not provide an output for OMP (oil metering pump) control. In the RX7 car, the OMP oil flow is controlled by the engine RPM. The pump rate control is activated by the car computer. This pump rate control is used to increase oil flow where there is an increased power demand at LOW engine RPM. This condition generally does not occur in an airplane (as we run at higher RPMs all the time). When the engine is used with an EMS with no output for OMP, the only option is to mix some oil in the fuel for top lubrication. The preferred oil used for this method is two stroke oil, due to its ability to readily mix with gasoline and lower combustion residues (when compared to regular engine oil). To overcome this draw back in aircraft used, the OMP pump rate can be fixed to a certain position and the oil flow will only change with engine RPM.
The RX7 OMP is controlled using a position stepper motor. The stepper motor may be replaced with an ADJUSTER to set the control shaft to a fixed position. In this way, the OMP is fully functional, giving an oil amount comparable to mixing the oil in the fuel. If the use of two stroke oil is desired, the ADJUSTER with the PVC OMP ADAPTOR provides a completel two-stroke-oil conversion.
07-24-2007, 05:39 PM
#14
The Professor
Yeah, I need one of those. I'm just too busy to pull it all apart at the moment.
Maybe in the fall...
If you can pull a good vacuum with your mouth (and you don't mind the taste of oil fumes), you can just unplug the MOP air bleed hose from the intake and suck on it.
I know that sounds nasty, but that is how I check mine. It just takes a second.
Maybe in the fall...
If you can pull a good vacuum with your mouth (and you don't mind the taste of oil fumes), you can just unplug the MOP air bleed hose from the intake and suck on it.
I know that sounds nasty, but that is how I check mine. It just takes a second.
inoticed that when i was using 10w40 my oil usage went to virtually zero.
but when i switched back to 5w20 it went to "normal"
07-24-2007, 05:41 PM
#15
The Professor
I know the manual says as long as it's between the L and H markers at driving temperature, that's OK.
But I'm just curious to know what you guys actually do it?
1. When it starts to fall a wee bit of the H marker?
2. When it is 3/4?
3. When it's 1/2?
4. When it's 1/4?
5. When it touches the L marker?
6. When (if it does) the CEL light comes on!
But I'm just curious to know what you guys actually do it?
1. When it starts to fall a wee bit of the H marker?
2. When it is 3/4?
3. When it's 1/2?
4. When it's 1/4?
5. When it touches the L marker?
6. When (if it does) the CEL light comes on!
more oil = better cooling, as the systems ability to absorb and distribute heat.
07-25-2007, 11:30 PM
#17
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If you're not burning oil, then there's something wrong with the oil injection system and your car is going to die very soon.
Mine consistently burns 450 ml per 1000 Km or roughly 1/2 a quart every 600 Mi. I check it and top up at every third fill up religeously.
Mine consistently burns 450 ml per 1000 Km or roughly 1/2 a quart every 600 Mi. I check it and top up at every third fill up religeously.
07-25-2007, 11:54 PM
#19
Herblenny said:
I think if you've actually did one, you will see that 13B is better than the renesis regarding power and some say its more reliable.. I know, how can old 13b motor be better than the newly designed renesis...
I think if you've actually did one, you will see that 13B is better than the renesis regarding power and some say its more reliable.. I know, how can old 13b motor be better than the newly designed renesis...
07-26-2007, 12:51 AM
#21
Thread Pirate, Ahhrrrrr
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Would you happen to have / be willing to take a picture?
Last edited by SmokeyTheBalrog; 07-26-2007 at 01:00 AM.
08-25-2009, 08:20 PM
#22
5 Boro Rotary......5BR
mine oil level hasnt change at all do that mean i should worry???
