Throttle Body By-Pass Value discussion
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Throttle Body By-Pass Value discussion
Stupid mod IMO. I mean it can't hurt (if done right) really but I doubt it will result in any usable WHP. But if you are under warranty then it is just another reason for them to hassle you.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Aug 23, 2010 at 01:34 PM.
Lets be honest there isn't much of anything that results in "usable" horse power on the 8 that doesn't involve FI or porting the engine.
Last edited by wcs; Aug 23, 2010 at 02:00 PM. Reason: typo
This mod was incorporated based on theory with no real proven data.
You want to impress me... get a before and after reading of the IAT and a thermocouple placed after the TB to illustrate the temp difference.
As hot as the engine bay gets and the resulting intake manifold heat sink/soak that occurs you could easily argue that it's not necessary for anyone not living at the North or South Poles too ....
Mariocoastie is right, the heater is to prevent the formation of ice on the throttle body, you have in effect a very high ratio venturi when the throttle is shut, which gives a huge local temperature drop over the butterfly due to the airspeed - which means the moisture in the air freezes over the throttle and causes inconsistant throttle response, bogging down when setting off, and fluctuating idles (even stalling if it gets too bad).
This can happen even with the engine bay being hot and the resultant heatsoak, even in warm weather, it's dependent on throttle position, ambient moisture and intake air temperature more than anything else, sometimes you get away with it, sometimes not.
Hell, I've got a video somewhere of my daily driver in the winter, with the same thing happening across the throttle plate (no heater circuit on it, one of the very early mass produced fuel injection cars) - it builds up about 1/8" of ice within 15 seconds or so and stalls the engine - it is accelerated on my car compared to an '8 as the throttle body is smaller so the air velocity is quite high.
This can happen even with the engine bay being hot and the resultant heatsoak, even in warm weather, it's dependent on throttle position, ambient moisture and intake air temperature more than anything else, sometimes you get away with it, sometimes not.
Hell, I've got a video somewhere of my daily driver in the winter, with the same thing happening across the throttle plate (no heater circuit on it, one of the very early mass produced fuel injection cars) - it builds up about 1/8" of ice within 15 seconds or so and stalls the engine - it is accelerated on my car compared to an '8 as the throttle body is smaller so the air velocity is quite high.
Last edited by PhillipM; Sep 29, 2010 at 05:34 PM.
:EDIT: I originally posted something in an attempt to further educate on why this is a bad idea, but whats the point of trying to help someone who is going to do what they have stuck in their head already... back to lurking I go.
Last edited by Sephitrask; Apr 6, 2013 at 08:54 AM. Reason: no point in trying
or you could just leave it as originally supplied by the factory since it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever
edit: this is a sincere message to anyone new to the RX8 or cars in general and trips across this thread. The difference between the theoretical ideal and reality can be vaster than some most people realize
.
edit: this is a sincere message to anyone new to the RX8 or cars in general and trips across this thread. The difference between the theoretical ideal and reality can be vaster than some most people realize
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; Apr 16, 2013 at 09:22 PM.
or you could just leave it as originally supplied by the factory since it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever
edit: this is a sincere message to anyone new to the RX8 or cars in general and trips across this thread. The difference between the theoretical ideal and reality can be vaster than some most people realize
.
edit: this is a sincere message to anyone new to the RX8 or cars in general and trips across this thread. The difference between the theoretical ideal and reality can be vaster than some most people realize
.
2) Excellent point, this mod is a waste. Can we just lock this damn useless thread already?
It works. The whole TB is so much cooler. Which means cooler air flow into the combustion chamber.
It is did not work, Why did all the RX8 teams in GT bypass the TB?
However, Sephitrask is correct. I would not recommend it to anyone in a cold climate.
You could be fine in some states, but other like Minnesota where there is so much moisture in the air...
I miss that brown paper bag. He has good points most of the time but I do not always agree with him.
I agree with Team, possibly for not the reason, but after doing my own research, and talking with some pretty knowledgeable folks I decided to not do this mod.
Those Mazda engineers are some pretty smart dudes. Consider the impact to the ECU calculations if remove something meant to normalize conditions. If you are okay with the notion that your smarter than Mazda then knock yourself out.
Those Mazda engineers are some pretty smart dudes. Consider the impact to the ECU calculations if remove something meant to normalize conditions. If you are okay with the notion that your smarter than Mazda then knock yourself out.
are you so in need of attention that you keep having to make pointless repetitive bump posting attempts all over the forum to receive it?
Some members might do well to think out side the bubble and realize their avitars might just give away who they are , when accompanied by condescending remarks , This give a person NO political cash with witch to hide in. When I see a condescending avatar I usually write tha nit wit off right away and usually don't give any credence to that ego centric person.
This. I smell a troll...
If I have offended any one here...Indeed "My Bad". I have erased a few posts that are in my opinion are not conducive to this site.I mistakenly posted the remark about the research in the wrong place again "MY Bad". I will remove this post also and replant it in the proper thread sorry. Life is a learning curve. My heart is in the right place.
I done this mod to every project I have done.
You have to think about the real purpose on having coolant run through the TB. Like said above, to prevent freezing. There is no other reason for it. Yes the ecu is tuned for it but only for cold starts. After it hits a certain temp, the ecu will no longer depend on it.
You will indeed benefit from this mod. Your TB is at least 140 fully warm all the time. No matter the temp out side, the TB will always be hotter then the air coming in.
Now with basic physics, running cool air through a hot 2-3 inch section of pipe will indeed raise the end temp. No need for proof as this is common sense.
Drive at a steady 3k with out the mod, pull over and feel the TB. you will see the fing thing is hot. Drive at a steady 3k with the mod, you will see the TB is cool to the touch.
No need to explain how this will benefit you and raise your MPGs. Colder, denser air even if it is 10 degrees is good enough for me to do this FREE mod. Even if it only gives me .00001 HP it is still better then nothing. I never liked the idea of heating up the TB when your trying to get performance.
Its like saying, here is a cig while you run. Yummm nnooo.
You have to think about the real purpose on having coolant run through the TB. Like said above, to prevent freezing. There is no other reason for it. Yes the ecu is tuned for it but only for cold starts. After it hits a certain temp, the ecu will no longer depend on it.
You will indeed benefit from this mod. Your TB is at least 140 fully warm all the time. No matter the temp out side, the TB will always be hotter then the air coming in.
Now with basic physics, running cool air through a hot 2-3 inch section of pipe will indeed raise the end temp. No need for proof as this is common sense.
Drive at a steady 3k with out the mod, pull over and feel the TB. you will see the fing thing is hot. Drive at a steady 3k with the mod, you will see the TB is cool to the touch.
No need to explain how this will benefit you and raise your MPGs. Colder, denser air even if it is 10 degrees is good enough for me to do this FREE mod. Even if it only gives me .00001 HP it is still better then nothing. I never liked the idea of heating up the TB when your trying to get performance.
Its like saying, here is a cig while you run. Yummm nnooo.
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Cool to the touch? Nothing metal on the engine is cool to the touch at full operating temp. I have measured the temps of various things under the hood after a drive and everything is close to 200F, except the exhaust obviously. I don't have this retarded mod but I don't have the coolant going to the TB because it is instead going through my turbo.
Let me bust out the Flir and disprove your theory when I get home.
Let me bust out the Flir and disprove your theory when I get home.
Cool to the touch? Nothing metal on the engine is cool to the touch at full operating temp. I have measured the temps of various things under the hood after a drive and everything is close to 200F, except the exhaust obviously. I don't have this retarded mod but I don't have the coolant going to the TB because it is instead going through my turbo.
Let me bust out the Flir and disprove your theory when I get home.
Let me bust out the Flir and disprove your theory when I get home.
Sure go for it but you are turboed so its going to be hot no matter what

I did this to a KL Mazda motor and yes, a 100% fact my entire intake mani was cold to the touch after driving in 60 degrees temps at 55mph for 15 min. This was N/A at the time.
This is not a "I Think" this is what happened from using this mod.



Still seems like a dumb mod to me and I am one to tinker just for the hell of it

