silver1.3

Temperature where I live has been crazy. 40's for a few days then 70's - and so on. I've notice (or at least it seems) that my cars CPU cant learn a fuel curve b/c as soon as it gets adapted for one set of temp's a warm spell (or cold spell) hits and my cars CPU doesn't seem to be optimized for the temperature conditions.


Anybody else notice this?

Rotario

Nope.


HTH,
Bill

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Check the MAF sensor for dirt and clean it, if needed. I have an oil-free air filter and I still discovered some nasty junk on it the other day.

To clean it I used a Q-Tip with rubbing alcohol on it and cleaned both front and back of the sensor "bulb". Be careful not to allow any fluids to come in contact with the sensor O-ring as that will swell it up and you'll need a new one for $8.

CRH

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I find mine runs (and idles) much more smoothly once the ambient temp is above 55°F or so, regardless of engine temp.

Brice-RX8

Instead of touching the actual MAF with something like a Q-Tip you can go to Advance Auto parts and get a small spray can of electronic cleaner and spray it on the sensor's wires that are in the intake and watch it dry on it's own like rubbing alcohol does they should go from a dirty brown color to a shiney silvery color, I just think it safer to use than actually having to touch those sensor wires.

Also, you have to realize the car is not going to feel as peppy at 70F as it would at 40F, the engine is getting much cooler air at 40 and the car will feel much more powerful when the difference in temperature between amibent and internal motor temps are much greater.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Either of these methods will work fine. I didn't think I was in the habit of passing on info that I wasn't quite positive works as well as intended.

I have also experienced a bit of what MM has-the car runs smoother at/around 70 degrees while it runs pretty strong around 40 degrees.

CRH

Brice-RX8

Charles I wasn't questioning your methods at all, I just thought that if people are anything like me I would end up breaking something so this way it doesn't even have to be touched. You are right either works and whichever suits you best.

Dark8

Seems my idle sucks at 50-60 degrees and high humidity.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Brice, Thanks for placating my juvenile insecurities with that clarification. Do you know what kind of chemicals are used in the component sprays you mentioned? I ask because I used to repair processor circuit boards for Sony and we techs were always very cautious about static electricity and chemical reactions. As such, we wore discharge wriststraps and used only compressed air to clean p.c. boards. I've never even looked at what is contained in the cans that were more than plain compressed air.

CRH

Brice-RX8

Charles, I am not sure what is in the product other than it evaporates like rubbing alcohol does so I would think it is something similar to it. The product is made by CRC and it is a small spray can that is red and white. I have also been in the computer industry as a technican and now as a programmer/analyst so I know what you mean about static electricity.

Here is the link to CRC's website http://www.crcindustries.com/crcweb/ and if you search for product 05101 that is the substance. I think you can spray it on the actual electrical connections but it also works wonders on the actual MAF sensor wires as I have never had a problem with it cleaning up K&N filter oil on MAF's for a couple years now. Hey and it only costs like 3 bucks.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

When I was in high school we used CRC, as opposed to WD-40 or Break-Away, and the CRC was pretty cool. You're probably right about their spray/cleaner. It's probably also a multi-purp type. I would have to relent and agree with you on your method, at least for those who aren't familiar with the tolerances of electrical components. If one is inexperienced or unfamiliar with the MAF they probably should use the method you suggest.

CRH