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Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear in my question. What I was looking for what what plugs are which number cylinder. I couldn't find that info online so I stopped at the dealer today. They told me the coils are 3 1 4 2 from front to back. So the rear one is Cylinder #2. Or so the dealer says. I'd like second hand confirmation though.
From the front of the car, it's rotor 1, (front) rotor 2. (Rear)
That dealer coil order is strange. It's not like a 4 cylinder.
To me the coil order is 1 2 3 4.
Leading 1, Trailing 1, Leading 2, Trailing 2. (Helpful tip- T=Top, L=Lower)
They are marked on the actual housings.
I made a simple diagram for myself.
This might help:
Thank you for your diagram. Just to be clear, you're saying the 2nd coil back from the front IS for cylinder #2 that a 302 code is calling cylinder #2?
Thank you for your diagram. Just to be clear, you're saying the 2nd coil back from the front IS for cylinder #2 that a 302 code is calling cylinder #2?
No, the 1st coil from the front is the L1, meaning the first housing, (not cylinder, rotor would also be acceptable)
This coil is firing the Leading plug on housing 1.
(The lower plug)
The 2nd coil from the front is the T1.
This coil is firing the Trailing plug on housing 1.
(The top plug)
The 3rd coil from the front is the L2.
This coil is firing the Leading plug on housing 2.
Then the 4th coil is T2, firing the Trailing plug on housing 2.
I get all that. Unless my code reader has a setting for rotary engines I'm missing, it's reading cylinder 2. What I'm trying to determine it which coil it's referring to.
Then it's the 3rd or 4th.
If you have no means of testing them, you can swap them out one at a time to see which is bad.
I think you have the solution. I suspected that it would come down to that, but was hopeful that I could find a simple diagram of plugs/coils would be labeled, though incorrectly named, cylinder numbers.
Thanks for your input guys.
ok. I've been poking around the forums for a while so I know most people would suggest a 302 code, you should replace all 4 coils, plugs, wires etc. I decided to go the route I can afford. Cylinder #2 possibly could have been either of the coils to the rear rotor I've been told. I replaced the rear coil and it's all fine now. Still not sure if the #2 indicated by the code reader could have been the other plug on rear rotor or not. For now,'it's working and I'm not gonna fuss too much. I only drive it about 2,000 mi a year anymore. It's my Sunday car.
I replaced the rear coil and it's all fine now. Still not sure if the #2 indicated by the code reader could have been the other plug on rear rotor or not.
Did you mean the other coil, or plug?
The coils usually trigger the CEL.
If you can't replace them all, the coils would be the first option, as long as you haven't been driving a lot with the misfire, the plugs can still be good.
Did you mean the other coil, or plug?
The coils usually trigger the CEL.
If you can't replace them all, the coils would be the first option, as long as you haven't been driving a lot with the misfire, the plugs can still be good.
Good news, and thanks for the update.
Yup, I mean coil, even if I say plug. What I'm
referring to it, that.....cuircut, I guess. The plug, wire and coil. When I first bought the car with 30k mi at a dealer, it came with a warrantee. A coil went bad and wife drove it causing it to need towed to dealer for repair. They replaced the cat and all four coils/wires/plugs. That was the first Id heard of the rotary issues. Like
many, I didn't understand what I was buying. Since then I've learned to care properly for the car. I've replaced a coil since then as well. I'm not totally convinced there isn't some damage to the cat at this point. I'll be looking into that in the coming days. At 74k mi, I know my miles are numbered with the engine. The dealer told me without a record of oil changes every 3k there is no engine warrantee. Whatever, I guess. But the cost of an engine rebuild when the time comes I'll just eat it. It's still cheaper than buying another super cool car. And the RX is super cool. I love driving it, even though it's no race car. Anything else in this price range isn't going to be fully loaded leather with Bose, back seat and big trunk and zoom zoomy.
Okay so I have the code for Cylinder 1 misfire. My car shakes while in idle and the CEL flashes when get above 3000 Rpms or so. I've replaced all coils, plugs, and wires. I've replaced the 3 solenoids above intake manifold (AIR,VDI,SSV) I also cleaned the air filter and MAF. I'm pretty sure the catalytic converter is trashed but I don't know if that will cause the misfire. So I just would like some help figuring out what else I can do. Thanks!
Awesome write up. Saved my *** from having to go to a dealer. My car was throwing a misfire code around 4000rpm but I never felt a loss of power. Instead of cleaning the ESS I just swapped it with one I had laying around (mine was almost perfectly clean). Misfire gone. After a few test drives I reset the NVRAM for the hell of it.
Hi all, unsure if I should post this here or as a new thread, please relocate if necessary.
I've read through a few threads regarding this issue so I have a list of things to go through, but I wondered if anyone had some first choices so I can start ordering parts and trying them out.
RX8 2004 192hp on 65kmi, car was running fine on the way to a fuel station near home, after moving off from fuel station, it started having what seems to be miss fire issues, almost always when accelerating, produces some fairly strong fwd/bwd jerks, engine warning light was flashing but turned off before I got home, I have not been able to get it to produce an error code in the run around I gave it since while still exhibiting the same problem.
I had a misfire code P0301. Keeps saying misfore on cylinder 1. Changed to the new BHR ignition system. Which includes new wires, plugs and coils. Took a test drive and everything good. Had an oil change and when i took it for a drive this morning got another P0301 code as a misfire on cylinder one. Why do i keep having misfires. Car turns on instantly on hot and cold starts so that cannot be compression??? Maybe CAT from the Misfires. But will that cause another misfire?
Not mentioned in the first post: check for a vacuum leak. I've had it happen twice now where one of the clips between the maf sensor and engine was loose. Takes 5 min to do a visual and touch on each of them and the vacuum pipes...
Last edited by blu3dragon; 05-01-2017 at 10:57 AM.
Not mentioned in the first post: check for a vacuum leak. I've had it happen twice now where one of the clips between the maf sensor and engine was loose. Takes 5 min to do a visual and touch on each of them and the vacuum pipes...
Maybe I'll add that in. Haven't been active in a few years here, thread probably needs an update.
It flashes at redline and the check engine light shuts off. The car smokes at high rpm as well and the compression is fine.
Mine was doing the same. Then one time it just stood on. I Also had new wires, coils and Plugs. It ended up being a faulty new Coil. BHR sent me new coil for free and got it installed. Car no longer flashes at high RPM and exaust no longer smokes at all
08-04-2016, 07:07 PM
