RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

So, looking for some advice from anyone that may have worked with, pulled, replaced, etc.. .the steering rack, steering column, etc...

I have a brand new u-joint in hand, and I am convinced that there is something wrong with the lower u-joint in my 8, binding, worn bearing, contamination, something. My lumpy steering disappears when I lubricate it with grease or WD40, but it comes back after a day or so, relubricate, disappears again, comes back after a day or so.

So I don't think it's rack or PCM related at all, or the lubrication on the joint wouldn't change a thing.

I've seen a handful of stories from people that have found them (or dealers told them) that it was cracked or binding or whatever, and I figure that is what I have.

Now, the u-joint itself has the gripping ends, one to grip the short shaft from the steering rack, one to grip the lower steering shaft. They are all ribbed to help prevent slipping, and have bolts to tighten the "clamp" action of the gripping end around the shafts.

You can't "loosen" them to the point where you can slide it on or off either end perpendicular from the shaft. They clearly must be slid off of the end, in a motion that is directly in line with the shaft itself.

It does appear that I could slide off either end, and that leaves me 2 options to get the distance I need:
1) Disconnecting the steering column and lifting it up and back the inch or two needed
2) Disconnecting the steering rack and moving it down and forward the inch or two needed.

No lift, not a smooth driveway, limited space under the car, so dropping the rack would be troublesome, so I am thinking that pulling the steering column up and away would be the best route. But there is alot involved with that.

Any advice from anyone here?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I replaced a steering column on mine after a plastic collar bushing broke inside it allowing the column to move up/down about an inch while driving it, as if the column tilt lock was broken. It was rather easy to do, but I had the car up on a lift. Still shouldn't be much different on jackstands, just make sure to mark all the parts so that you get it all aligned properly upon reinstalling it. Otherwise you will have more steering lock in one direction than the other. The R&R is in the service manual. I'm not sure if the column will need to be moved. I obviously had to replace mine, but it is supposed to be collapsible, not sure if you get the flex joint off that way or not. Check the service manual.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It's easy enough to undo the 4 bolts that hold the rack on...and let it hang on the tie rod ends...that will let you remove and replace that joint fairly easily. You will need to remove the undertray to get at it....

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Well, u-joint is off.

Dan, I pulled off the undertray to start with your suggestion, but didn't get far as it was painfully obvious that I have no tools that could reach the 4 mounting bolts on the rack AND still have any sort of leverage or rotation motion left. So wrote that off as a no-go and went back to the steering column.

I started dismantling the steering wheel itself before I realized that i didn't actually have to remove it, and instead removed the 4 bolts mounting the column to the frame. This let the column drop down some, then removed the cover around the column, disconnected all the wires, and it was completely free.

Then, through steering wheel rotation, rotated the shaft around as needed to get the angles for removing the bolts. The upper u-joint bolt I got through the wheel well easily, the lower one I got through the top after removing the air box. Then I spent 2 hours yanking on it and trying to get the shaft removed. Finally my wife got home, asked if she could yank on the steering wheel while I watched the motion of it to figure out what was holding it in place (since I could move the u-joint itself with my hand), and sat in the seat to demontrate what I wanted her to do...and it popped free instantly

I told her to hold on and look at the other end to make the u-joint jump off the other side of the shaft quickly, but that didn't work


Once I got the u-joint off with some more leverage and hammer->screwdriver tapping, I could instantly feel that the u-joint wasn't in good condition. 1 axis felt fine, like the new one where I could move it with a finger tip or it's own weight if I held it at the an angle. The other axis actually required muscle to move, and you could feel it grinding and studdering along when doing so.

Good feeling knowing I guessed right as to the problem.

Going to be taking pictures as I re-assemble to post here for a DIY in case anyone else needs to do this.

$50 u-joint from Mazmart makes it a pretty cheap fix.

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

So this must be the bushing you are referring to. Found it on the floor after an autocross yesterday and the tilt only sticks in the full down position. Otherwise up-only slop.

So I have to replace the whole steering shaft? This appears to be a clip on slip in nylon beveled one end bushing 2" dia x 1.25" long. Not seeing a part number anywhere I was afraid of this as a very expensive item even thru MazdaSpeed. Does the steering shaft carry the PN FE01-32-10XK? I saw one out of a 2009 for $105 boneyard in CA free shipping. I have a 2004 but assume they never changed them?

Hoping for the best preparing for the usual worst.

Hi Flying 8

iTrader: (2)

I had this problem on my 2007. I worked the bushing back into place and then took a screw clamp and wrapped it around the steering column up against the bushing to hold it in place. It held up fine for over two years.

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

Worth a shot. Thanks for the tip.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

As stated, I bought a used column (from Mazmart) and installed it around late 2009. Problem has not duplicated itself again yet. Mine hadn’t come out fully like that. I don’t have any experience with rigging it back in and can’t help you there.

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

Since it was only $125 delivered for a used steering column I bought one. There is a black stop on the good one holding it in and mine has nothing. I really couldn't get the old bushing to go back up in there anyhow. Decided to have it replaced at a shop. Reasonable labor there and a lift.

Thanks for advice. Too old to get under the dash anymore. Will be stiff for 2 days.