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After going to test a faulty ground wire to the SSV solenoid by splicing a wire between the red/white(ground) wire on the solenoid to a body ground along the frame.
After doing so I went to start the car and now the fuel pump won’t prime when the ignition is turned. SSV and purge solenoid codes appear as soon as the ignition is on after clearing them. Disconnected the spliced ground but the problems persist.
I realize in retrospective this was stupid and I should have just replaced the wire itself, but need to troubleshoot this now. Have I most likely blown my ecu by doing this or is there a chance it’s just a fuse?
W/R in your diagram, white/red IRRC, is NOT ground. That's 12V supply from a relay that's energized by the ECU. Get voltage back on it and you will be good. The ecu couldn't have been damaged from this.
Note to everyone that just shorting things to ground or 12V without extensive research and proper understanding is a terrible idea. Especially do not tie to 12V wires going to the ECU, that's a very good way of frying it..
W/R in your diagram, white/red IRRC, is NOT ground. That's 12V supply from a relay that's energized by the ECU. Get voltage back on it and you will be good. The ecu couldn't have been damaged from this.
Note to everyone that just shorting things to ground or 12V without extensive research and proper understanding is a terrible idea. Especially do not tie to 12V wires going to the ECU, that's a very good way of frying it..
I definitely learned my lesson, most likely going to be sending off to a shop to get more electrical tests done once I get the pump running again. I was sure my find of 40ohms between w/r wire and any point of ground indicated a bad ground causing my solenoids to not actuate properly, but guess I was wrong.
this info leaves me 5x more stumped than before as to why my ssv refuses to actuate properly and shutter between on and off under load after every ssv related part has been replaced and vacuum tested.
W/R in your diagram, white/red IRRC, is NOT ground. That's 12V supply from a relay that's energized by the ECU. Get voltage back on it and you will be good. The ecu couldn't have been damaged from this.
Note to everyone that just shorting things to ground or 12V without extensive research and proper understanding is a terrible idea. Especially do not tie to 12V wires going to the ECU, that's a very good way of frying it..
checked today, it blew fuse “egi comp1”. After replacing it fired right up and codes were gone. Thank you!
ssv actuation issue still present but that was expected.