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Which Size(lbs) Jack and Stand?

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Old 11-06-2005, 11:48 AM
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Question Which Size(lbs) Jack and Stand?

I'm getting ready to do my all the maintenance on the 8 and wanted to know from the some of the owners what size(lbs) Jacks and Stands they used.
Mainly for me to put the car up off the ground leveled so I can get under there and change the Differential Oil and Trans Oil.
Thanks for the help guys!
Old 11-06-2005, 01:45 PM
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I have a 2 1/2 ton floor jack & 4 jack stands rated @ 2 tons each. I also have a set of homemade drive up ramps.
Old 11-06-2005, 04:50 PM
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2 ton jack and 4 stands are 1.5 tons a pop
Old 11-06-2005, 06:30 PM
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So you had no problem with it then? Just want to make sure. I dont want to get under the car and be scared that its going to fall on me!
Old 11-06-2005, 06:34 PM
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anything that's rated 2 tons or higher will be more than fine for the 8, seeing how ours cars are so light
Old 11-06-2005, 10:01 PM
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Thanks guys, appreciate it!
Old 11-07-2005, 10:56 AM
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any 2ton (4000lb) jack/stand will be fine because even fully loaded, the car is only around 3800-3900. Also remeber than you only jack up one 'side' of the car at a time (front, back, left, right) so the weight is divided by all points of contact with the ground, so your really never going to lift more than half the weight of the car.

I have a 2500lb (1.5ton) jack with 18" of lift and 4 - 5000lb (2.5ton) jack stands with 22" lift (of course I can only use 18" of that.

Always works great for me, I bought the jack and 2 stands as a set for 80 I think, on sale at sears, its a great floor jack, the stands are just avg. I then bought 2 more stand seperate for 20 I think, so it was about 100 bucks for everything!

jack stands are jack stands are jack stands......they are pretty simple and hard to make wrong, as long as its good quality metal, and good welds its fine.....spend the money on a good floor jack first!
Old 11-07-2005, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by KYLiquid
jack stands are jack stands are jack stands......they are pretty simple and hard to make wrong, as long as its good quality metal, and good welds its fine
I'd disagree with this. I think there's a big difference between "ratcheting" stands like you find at Sears and those that use a cotter pin to adjust the height--the latter are harder to adjust but intrinsically safer.

The same goes with the feet. Cheaper stands use angle bracket legs that can dig into asphalt and other soft materials. The better ones have a wide foot under each leg that spread the weight over a greater area.
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Old 11-07-2005, 02:41 PM
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one thing to be aware of is that the balance of the car can cause some unexpected up-down movements when jacking up the 3rd point if you do the jacking at the corners, since it's easy to get the CG (which is pretty centered on this car) between two jackstands and one jack-point.

I've had one corner rise up off the jackstand while jacking up another corner before, but I can't remember what order I was working in to cause that.

Also, the back end will want to scoot forward if you jack up the front end first, unless you use a wheeled floor jack and orient it properly (or jack the car up with the e-brake off, which is a far more dangerous alternative which I wouldn't personally reccomend.

one time saver if you've got a jack that'll allow for this is to jack the back end up by the differential housing to put 2 jackstands underneath on one lift. I've never figured out how to get a jack under there in a workable way, but the Mazda workshop manual lists the diff housing and the front cross-member (both of which usually seem too far from the ends of the car to reach with a floor jack) as points for a 2-jack lift.
Old 11-07-2005, 02:49 PM
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What line to you suggest while putting up the car on the stands? Use FR(Front Right), FL(Front Left), RL(Rear Left) and RR(Rear Right) as a reference for me please. Thanks again guys!
Old 11-07-2005, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bgreene
one time saver if you've got a jack that'll allow for this is to jack the back end up by the differential housing to put 2 jackstands underneath on one lift. I've never figured out how to get a jack under there in a workable way, but the Mazda workshop manual lists the diff housing and the front cross-member (both of which usually seem too far from the ends of the car to reach with a floor jack) as points for a 2-jack lift.
I do this all the time. You have two options:
1. Drive the car up on 2x6" boards to give you some extra room to put your jack under the car.
2. Use a lower profile jack.
3. If you have a lowered car, do both #1 and #2.

I have a low profile jack but still have to get the front wheels on 2x6" boards in order to clear the jack. Most jacks will reach the rear diff. It's the front jack point that's hard to reach.
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Old 11-07-2005, 03:15 PM
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Speaking of which, where is the best place to put the jack stands? I am pulling all four wheels this weekend to put on some all season tires.
Old 11-07-2005, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Kurt V
Speaking of which, where is the best place to put the jack stands? I am pulling all four wheels this weekend to put on some all season tires.
Yeah good point. I wasnt even thinking of that!
Old 11-07-2005, 03:36 PM
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Maybe you can show us by using this. Hopefully it will help!

Attached Thumbnails Which Size(lbs) Jack and Stand?-drivingdynamics25.jpg  
Old 11-08-2005, 10:59 AM
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I use a 3000-lb "racing jack" (whatever that means) I picked up from Harbor Freight. That's plenty to raise one end of this car, and you aren't relying on the jack anyway -- it's just to get the car up onto the jackstands. Although, I do keep the jack lightly loaded as a backup.

The jacking locations for a floor-jack are the center of the crossmember on the front of the car, and the bottom of the differential case on the rear.
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