You guys think this can apply for rotary engines too. I do it for my other cars and my 600rr sportbike. And it works to me. But rotary engines?

 

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm here is the link

 

I've done this on my 600RR as well and it runs strong. Since he refers to piston ring seals ... not sure how this will affect a rotary ...

 

I tried this on my 8 at 13km, do a full uphill drag and all. No problem so far and running strong.

 

I know somebody who did it with an RX-8, car is very strong ... he prefers to remain anonymous

 

I am firm believer in it. Alot of people don't though. No matter what you believe change your oil and filter as soon as you can. Optimally after about 20 miles on the engine. You'll be very surprised at how much metal is in the oil. Change the filter and oil again at 500 miles, then at 1000. Then start your normal routine. This is regardless of hard or easy break in.

 

Do they put a cross-hatch hone on the rotor housing walls to help seat the apex seals???

 

That's what I had been wondering as well.

 

I've always used a High Load, Short duration break in Method with my bikes. Not necessary to run it up to 11K RPMs, just load the engine really hard repeatadly (Or a word something like that) and I've never had a problem. In fact my Suzuki GSX1300R puts about 162HP to the rear wheel, while typically the Hayabusa puts about 155-158 outta the box.

Fortunately I don't have to worry about it with the RX, it was the dealers own car for the first 5K miles, so I am certain it saw plenty of hard use early.

 

The dealer where I bought my 2005 6MT told me the car needed no break-in !

Well, I didn't quite buy that, so for the first 1000 miles I carefully warmed her up before driving and avoided more than short bursts of full throttle. And I did not redline her until about 2000 miles.

However after about 100 miles, I did drive up into the local mountains (heavy load), occasionally hitting 6000 RPM but still avoiding staying too long at any specific RPM (had to check out the handling in the twisties, you know).

I guess you could call this a "tough" break-in. I did my first oil change at 800 miles and another at 2800 miles. I am now at 3700 miles and the car runs flawlessly. I have not had to add any any oil between those changes. The lowet I have seen on the dipstick was about one-third quart down.

What's the concensus of you tech garage types ? Have I trashed my engine ?

Now that some of us are ap past 50,000 miles, it might be cool to do a poll regarding how various among us owners broke in our engines, and whether the break-in correlates to oil consumption or other wear indicators.

 

The rotary engine (unless somehow Mazda changed this when they re-did the engine for the Renesis generation) will burn some oil regardless.

 

I wouldn't call that tough break-in, roughly 85% break-in works in the first few tens of miles if necessary.

 

^^^^^
I didn't think so either. But plenty of folks say, not > 4K RPM until 1,000 miles, no redline before 2,000 miles, etc. I'm now at 5,100 miles and running stronger every day. I added oil 1250 miles after my last change, and just averaged 23 MPG on a long cruise. Power and MPG just seem to keep improving.