Haven't I already stated several times why this is so?

 

here we go again...

where does mazda state that for cars in na?

and that little inseret does not count..

beers

 

just thought i'd save you a year of time and money... but since you know better then me go ahead -shrug-

 

Does anyone know who makes the Mazda USA oil filters? It's FRAM (blech) for Canada, but not so in the US.

 

made by Mahle, an European OEM parts supplier for many Euro brands. It even says 'Mazda Europe' on the oil filter

it's a solid piece

 

Ok, but I've only used 2 OEM Mazda filters, one came with the Car, the second one I got it cuz its mad cheap

Now I only use WiX(RG recommeneded) and K&N, no issues.

 

I did some checking on different synthetics. Not all Amsoil oils are straight synthetics! Some are synthetic blends. Even their true synthetics are blends of Group III and Group IV base stocks. I had been mentioning that they were all Group V oils but this is wrong.

 

Thanks! Anyone but FRAM. They are consistently bad in any take-apart test.

 

Great topic! Unbeliavable, that there are always so many new things to learn about oils and lubrication.

A liitle off topic but I just have to say, I'm on Mobil-1 0w-30 (in europe) and everything is fine after 15000miles with the car, never flooded. I change the oil after every 3000 miles. I'm courius why Yamamoto-san said those words about Mobil-1 products.

 

who knows what sup with mobil 1, I think MazdaManic going to take his *blown up* engine apart in a few months. then we'll see if Mobil 1 has any negative affect on Rotary Engine.

 

I've known people to run Mobil 1 in rotaries before with no issues. Even if it potentially leaves more deposits than some other oils (maybe), if the engine is driven sufficiently it shouldn't be an issue. Nevertheless that is one that Mazda found to be an issue for some reason. I suspect that it is more an issue on the engines that people drive too easily and never rev up high. My RX-7 had nothing but conventional in it before I owned it but due to being babied it's whole life, it had massive carbon inside it.

 

Yeah, I'm not expecting my dissection to prove much. The motor was boosted and run to the red line pretty often, so most of the carbon should be gone.
Sludge might be still there, though.

 

quick poll for you oil heads: Wal-Mart has both the Castrol GTX 5w20 and the Motorcraft 5w20 in 5qt jugs for $9.97, which one would you get for the money??

 

I'd go for the Castrol personally but that's just me.

 

Or maybe Yamamoto-san just hate mobil cuz they dont sponsor Mazda !!!!

(Just my thought , hehe)

 

My preference is the Castrol GTX also.

If I wasn't running Amsoil I would be running Castrol GTX.

 

I've been using Castrol GTX for quite a long time now. My RX-8 is getting Castrol GTX 5-20 from my dealership (I'm a pre-order enjoying the free maintenance deal), or so they say on the paperwork anyway, which is great because that's what I will be using in it when I have to change it myself (1 year to go on the free stuff). Unless I decide to go synthetic, of course, which would no doubt be Royal Purple.

 

[QUOTE=nycgps]Or maybe Yamamoto-san just hate mobil cuz they dont sponsor Mazda !!!!

Maybe.

more thoughts: 1.Mobil-1 products is changing frequently, usually after every second year. 2. The newest Mobil-1 prospectus proudly says, that there are swelling additives in these oils for better sealing. Is it time to worry about our side seal's O-rings, or are these additives in every oils?

 

That might also be true. Mobil change their stuff every year or so, sometimes 2.

Im pretty sure to say the mobil 1 we see nowdays is NOT the same as the mobil1 from 5 years ago.

 

Each manufacturer recommends a certain oil for use in their cars. A lot of outside money comes in from oil companies. Mazda would prefer that you use nothing but "their" oil. I guarantee Mobil 1 isn't paying them anything. Neither are most other oil companies.

Oil is constantly changing. The classifications keep changing. The API has actually lowered their standards on occassion. Case in point is our current oils. We actually have fewer detergents in them now than we did several years ago! Believe me this isn't a good thing. If you look at a can of oil and see what classification in meets, if it doesn't meet the current level, don't be disappointed. I have always stated that API standards are minimum standards but they also have maximum standards which is silly. Race oils do not meet API requirements because they have too much of a good thing.

 

Oil in cans - what a silly concept.

(how old are you RG?)

 

^^ I was thinking the same thing.

I still have my self-tapping oil can spigot...

 

Well, I just did my first fill with Royal Purple 5w-30 and I must say I am disapointed.
There was no noticible increase in power or fuel efficiency and the "cool" purple color did not bling out my engine bay the way I expected!

Then again, it is just oil and, in this case, what is doesn't do is more important than what it does do.

 

Can, bottle, whatever. You know what I mean.

Don't expect any oil to give you a noticable amount of power gain. It takes about 10% more just to feel it with any accuracy and even the best oils will give you only a 2-3% increase over the worst ones.

 

I find it illogical that RG assumes that people who would put Mobil 1 in their RENESIS might also be the sort to drive it easily... My experience with Chevy customers and Mobil 1 is exactly the opposite.

I would also hazard a guess that if Yamamoto-san did specifically single out Mobil 1 as being bad for the RENESIS, I should think that Mazda has conducted a LITTLE more research into this than they're willing to acknowledge officially.

I also suspect that the bearing-loads in a rotary engine are not as high as in a conventional piston engine, and that the shear force that a synthetic would be required to handle is just not there. Heat, moisture, or combustion by-product contamination would be the main enemy of our rotarys' oil, and for that a regular high-quality oil serviced at regular intervals should suffice.

I do think that RG and others have posted enough real-world evidence to support the believe that SOME synthetics work just fine in the rotary engines. I'm just not certain that it's necessary to use a synthetic in a rotary street car.

As I say this though, realize that I write from a position of practically zero rotary experience, and I live in a friggin' HOT desert climate with only 5W-20 oil in my Renesis. Until the OMP-reconfiguring reflash is done on my car, I worry constantly about cruising across the desert, but worry more that a thicker oil might actually flow less easily through the OMP if I were to try it. The "20" or "30" is actually what the oil THICKENs up to when heated. A thicker oil will flow less easily at temperature so would my engine be MORE at risk of damage, pre-recall flash, in this desert, with a 5W-30?

I know the rest of the world receives a 5W-30 oil recommendation but... don't they also receive a different OMP flash too? Different smog standards to adhere to? I don't think it's fair to simply second-guess Mazda on this because, until someone cracks the ECM 100%, Mazda's the one in control of the engine tuning and OMP flow in all markets. Not saying they've got it right, just that they're a little ahead of everyone else in what they know.