Revi Duct and Stock duct pictures
#26
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Originally Posted by davefzr
Do you guys feel that the stock bumper allows adequite airflow to the duct? The reason why I ask is because the front grille blocks air flow at the top.
Or is this not a concern because the air duct is low enough to gather all of it's air from the opening at the bottom of the bumper?
Or is this not a concern because the air duct is low enough to gather all of it's air from the opening at the bottom of the bumper?
"I did consider the frontal areas available when designing the ram air duct for the RX8:
Open area of "grille" 37 square inches
Open area of lower mouth opening 120 square inches
Projected frontal area of radiator 360 square inches
The classic design criteria for a duct leading to a radiator is "1 to 3", that is, the duct can be one third the area of the radiator and not restrict cooling. As the numbers above show, the front of the RX8 satisfies this requirement even if the 37 square inches of grille area are dedicated to engine ram air. Two other factors have a bearing on this analysis: the stock radiator of the RX8 has a VERY fine fin design which reduces air flow - and puts a premium on sealing the air ahead of the radiator to maximumize the pressure of the air to improve cooling; second, the underside of the ram air duct is a curved shape that directs air into the radiator more smoothly. To sum up, there is still plenty of air to cool the radiator when using the ram air duct, and it is well-directed to do the job."
Hope this helps. I love my combo of REVi intake and Duct!
#28
the bottom of the duct has holes for water to escape, it's also shaped so that heavier (than air) stuff would get trapped there instead of going up. It's also not that low - it fits in the bottom of the black honey comb area of the stock grill.
#32
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Ive been wanting to install the RB duct for a while on my modded stock airbox, but Im worried about taking on water (I live in tropical storm world). Can anyone comment on the dangers of running the ram air duct and taking water in the intake???
If its not an issue, Ill order the duct next week
If its not an issue, Ill order the duct next week
#33
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also think just installing the duct on the stock intake will coz any performance gains?
Also
Can you upload a pic of your modded stock intake..mmm just curious :D
Also
Originally Posted by SoFL_RX8
Ive been wanting to install the RB duct for a while on my modded stock airbox, but Im worried about taking on water (I live in tropical storm world). Can anyone comment on the dangers of running the ram air duct and taking water in the intake???
If its not an issue, Ill order the duct next week
If its not an issue, Ill order the duct next week
#34
i always heard that it's pretty tough to hydrolock a rotary. but, i do live in miami & have sucked in water during floods in previous cars.
anyways, the rb duct sits pretty high up on the bumper & has holes on the bottom side to release water that may get sucked in... i think it'll be fine. i'm planning on getting one for sure.
anyways, the rb duct sits pretty high up on the bumper & has holes on the bottom side to release water that may get sucked in... i think it'll be fine. i'm planning on getting one for sure.
#35
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dgrx8: That sounds good to me... I was told it almost impossible to hydrolock a rotory, but my brother killed his Jetta in hurricane Katrina last summer, and ever since Ive been very scared of CAI in Miami. I wasnt aware there were hole in the bottom of the duct, that is very reassuring... seeing as how water is heavier than air is should drop right out before getting sucked in. Thanks for the info man.
Unhooked: Pictures wont really show much. Ive simply gutted the stock airbox (took out the trumpet and dividers) disabled the VFAD, put in a K&N drop-in filter and dremmeled the inside of the box to a smooth. Youd be suprised how much better the air flows without all of thoes rivets inside. Took me about 2 hours to do and Id say my stock intake is now just as good as a Revi, minus the ram-air duct, of course.
Unhooked: Pictures wont really show much. Ive simply gutted the stock airbox (took out the trumpet and dividers) disabled the VFAD, put in a K&N drop-in filter and dremmeled the inside of the box to a smooth. Youd be suprised how much better the air flows without all of thoes rivets inside. Took me about 2 hours to do and Id say my stock intake is now just as good as a Revi, minus the ram-air duct, of course.
#39
Originally Posted by nycgps
The Duct ? or REvi ? They're 2 different things.
If you're talking about the Duct, IT direct air in the FRONT of your car instead of the VFAD on the side. Meaning as your car moves, the air will blow directly into the duct and transfe it to your Intake. Without the control of the VFAD you will be sure that you will always get the most cold air you can have.
If you're talking about Revi. it directs air directly to MAF-Engine. and their design somehow "compress" the mass of air at the enterance. So that way, more air into the engine (instead of the stock Airbox's leave-it-as-is design)
If you're talking about the Duct, IT direct air in the FRONT of your car instead of the VFAD on the side. Meaning as your car moves, the air will blow directly into the duct and transfe it to your Intake. Without the control of the VFAD you will be sure that you will always get the most cold air you can have.
If you're talking about Revi. it directs air directly to MAF-Engine. and their design somehow "compress" the mass of air at the enterance. So that way, more air into the engine (instead of the stock Airbox's leave-it-as-is design)
That is not to say that moving the air intake never helps. If it's located in a bad spot to start with (like a flat surface that Bernoulli says will create a low pressure area) then you may wind up with negative pressure in the plenum. But if it's in a shielded area of normal atmospheric pressure you probably won't gain anything (and might hurt) by opening a duct forward.
All of that has nothing to do with cold air in vs hot engine bay air.
Pilgrim
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