Renesis OIL PRESSURE Discussion with Dealer Tech
WOW finally got though the whole thread what a read so far~! I have some ideas but will be waiting patiently to see how things pan out first. I will be taking a more active part in this discussion when I get back from Afghanistan.
We will be thinking of you...even from Australia..
We have to get the technically minimum standard pressure (10PSi more at every 1000rpm, 9000=90 PSI) at first, before we are talking about how much is the flow? But it seems like we don't have this pressure with the S1's original system in some kind of situations (high rpm, opened pellet at 50-60Celsius oil...).
Last edited by ayrton012; Jan 5, 2010 at 07:38 AM. Reason: PSI
LOL Thanks 9k~! I may be gone but For sure I will still be on here or rotary 4 life. So has anyone here used a higher then 180* oil bypass thermostat? Would installing a a aftermarket bypass thermostat affect the factory thermostats inside the coolers operational function and and ability to react quickly to fluctuating oil temps?
Haha, I'm not that cold hearted, I meant about freakin' time you read all the posts. I am curios how an aftermarket thermostat would work with the factory ones. Plumbing one in would be a bitch though.
I think a water to oil cooler after the stock factory oil coolers would be Great~! Esp when I hear things like "our stock coolers flow 50% when cold".
For the Huge oil coolers guys it would help even out coolant and oil temps and that seems like a very good thing.
In some after market FI kits they will come with both a air to oil and a water to oil cooler. This must be for a reason.
For the Huge oil coolers guys it would help even out coolant and oil temps and that seems like a very good thing.
In some after market FI kits they will come with both a air to oil and a water to oil cooler. This must be for a reason.
The biggest benefit I could think of for using water->oil cooler would be to warm up the oil quicker. But what's the point if increasing the pressure accomplishes a similar feat?
For cold climates, it's easy enough to block off most of the air flow to an air->oil cooler to keep the temps up, so there's little point in using a water->oil cooler for that.
For cold climates, it's easy enough to block off most of the air flow to an air->oil cooler to keep the temps up, so there's little point in using a water->oil cooler for that.
FWIW, I have my two oil coolers blocked and I can't get my oil up to temp. I do two 20 mile freeway commutes each day (70% freeway at 65mph).
I haven't done the oil pressure mod yet, but have the parts. I am doing that mostly because the previous and newer rotarys run the higher pressure - seems like the 2004-2008s should too. I have started running a minimum 10W oil too.
I haven't done the oil pressure mod yet, but have the parts. I am doing that mostly because the previous and newer rotarys run the higher pressure - seems like the 2004-2008s should too. I have started running a minimum 10W oil too.
'cause i am also buying into the poor lubrication and conventional oil arguments until i finally go back to synthetics like i have used in my other cars. (I have used Mobil1 0W40 in all my cars since I had a car with a 1.8T in 2002.)
Gotta tell you guys i am having a lot of fun trying to work thru all the unique aspects of this car. We probably can't prove everything we choose to do, but we get to weigh a lot of good input and make our decisions. Fun for me. The hand wringing will start the week before i go to the track in May!
Thanks for all you guys contribute!
Gotta tell you guys i am having a lot of fun trying to work thru all the unique aspects of this car. We probably can't prove everything we choose to do, but we get to weigh a lot of good input and make our decisions. Fun for me. The hand wringing will start the week before i go to the track in May!
Thanks for all you guys contribute!
Last edited by ganseg; Jan 7, 2010 at 06:18 PM.
rotaries....scary stuff.
would it be okay to use any of the filter mags? i dont see why i shoul buy the 70 dollar one over the 40.
does the advertised pulling weight make a difference? 75 lbs is a lot... should i pay more to get to 160 lbs?
would it be okay to use any of the filter mags? i dont see why i shoul buy the 70 dollar one over the 40.
does the advertised pulling weight make a difference? 75 lbs is a lot... should i pay more to get to 160 lbs?
Last edited by always.anthony; Jan 16, 2010 at 05:24 PM.
^ http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY042SH
Buy 10 stack them 2x5 on filter
Buy 10 stack them 2x5 on filter
I bought 15 for $31 + $5 shipping. They covered half of my filter. If I had measured, I would probably have done 30. I sent the company selling them the ad of the place selling the purpose made ones, and they thought I didn't even need the 15. I figure the more metal fragments I capture the better.
Regarding the purpose made ones, I change brands of filters and sizes. This way I can put them on any filter.
Regarding the purpose made ones, I change brands of filters and sizes. This way I can put them on any filter.
If you feel like reading, some of the links are relative to this thread. There are some things I agree with and some things I don't.
http://forum.centralvirginiamazdaclu...-like-reading/
http://forum.centralvirginiamazdaclu...-like-reading/



i just thought it would filter more