Well the title says it all, kinda.

I'm looking for some guidance on removing all of the a/c components...i.e. pump, pluming, ect..ect...everything.

If anyone has some DIY guides or just knowledge of the RX-8's a/c system....

Any thoughts on the subject...pros/cons....go/no go....flame

Thanks

 

Not worth it IMO, AC pump is clutch driven so unless the AC is switched on it draws less than 1 HP, and as far as weight savings you will be lucky to get 15 lbs out of the components under the hood.

 

Nothing to difficult to remove...just have to take out the undertray, battery box, front bumper, airbox/intake... etc

Unless you have a reason to want it removed it's hardly worth the bother....and when it's smoking hot out it's kinda nice

 

I don't remember if the AC belt works just the ac or not, but Just remove or use a smaller belt for a few days before you start removing parts.

 

AC belt only works AC, and already stated unless its a dedicated track/race car and you have access to speed source pulleys removal is next to useless.

 

You don't NEED the speedsource pulleys. It's much cheaper to modify an AP underdrive pulley and get aluminum pulleys for the water pump and alternator. But even then the difference is negligible.

Pros: Removes about 20lbs, radiator works much better without the condenser in the way, removes rotating mass off the front pulley assembly.

Cons: You no longer have A/C...

My thoughts? If it's not a track car, don't do it. In a normal street car the gains aren't worth the amount of effort you'll put in ripping all this stuff out. I took all mine out at the same time I was removing my motor so for me it was just a "well while I'm doing this I might as well" sort of thing.

It's not hard to remove the stuff, just shove a pen or something into the ports to get rid of all the refrigerant, remove the bumper and start unbolting stuff.

Here's what I did for the pulleys, throw an Agency Power underdrive pulley on the lathe, then the other two are the aluminum pulleys from RotaryFX.

 

Well thats what my thoughts were, since i have a daily driver 8 and a potential track 8 (yeah i got two).

 

That was kind of my point, He can just pull a belt and see that there is no power differance.

Yes it could allow a little better cooling, but that is only a concern if he's having issues.

 

If you're building a track car and you're that concerned about saving 20lbs then you might want to ditch the nitrous kit. Nitrous is banned from most club racing events.

 

I'm more into a straight line type of racing than all those twisties.

 

Then you own two very bad cars for what you want to do.

 

Green house gas - Have the freon (or what ever is in the system) removed by a licensed refrigerant technician. Do not vent to atmosphere.

 

Or do what I did, forget to close your mouth when you pop off one of the hoses



That was a bad night.

 

oh come on green house gas. Canned air to clean computers is R134A. (the same stuff in our cars)
http://www.2spi.com/catalog/msds/msds07605.html


It can be used to recharge an AC system With no problems.

I've seen me do it.

Look up 1,1,1,2 Tetrafluoroethane

 

So I've heard by so many people, so many times

 

You could knock me over with a feather. Learn something new every day .

 

Furthermore, it's used as a propellant in most aerosols.
My previous job at an aerosol marking paint manufacturer, we would have replace pumps in the gas system. The standard process for bleeding the pressure out of that section in the system of propellant gas whether it be 134A, 152A, B70, and a few others was literally "vent to atmosphere"

HOWEVER! I would not recommend doing this on your car or on your home AC either,
As the area I performed this work was in a spark and static free environment with proper ventilation.

If you were to bleed this around any kind of ignition source you're setting yourself up for a disaster. And ignition source can simply be the clothes you are wearing "static electricity" or dropping a wrench on the concrete ground. (test this by going in the garage with the lights off and drop a wrench, it produces a significant spark.

BE SAFE!!!!

 

having Rx-8 to do straight line racing

it's like giving you a fork to use while serving u bowl of soup.

it's just wrong.

 

Since when is this stuff flammable?

Ken

 

It's not

Section 5: Fire Fighting Measures

Flash Point & Method: None TCC Method

Flammable Limits: LEL: NA UEL: NA

Just be careful of pressurized canisters around fire. It has a very low boiling point. So it will build pressure quick.