rebuilt engine wont start...help
12-15-2013, 11:47 PM
#79
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It's mostly about checking the specs for each of the parts being reused correctly to determine what should and should not be reused and using quality seals (OEM) and not Atkins crap.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 12-27-2013 at 04:37 PM.
12-17-2013, 01:13 AM
#81
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Thanks for the posts. I have found water on my dip stick. I will pull it apart this weekend and im not doubting that i will learn something valuable. If anyone can think of something that could prevent me from opening it up, I would be ever so grateful. Not that rebuilding this is a hardship, its a lot of fun for someone with an engineering mind.
12-27-2013, 04:21 PM
#82
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Thanks for the posts. I have found water on my dip stick. I will pull it apart this weekend and im not doubting that i will learn something valuable. If anyone can think of something that could prevent me from opening it up, I would be ever so grateful. Not that rebuilding this is a hardship, its a lot of fun for someone with an engineering mind.
12-27-2013, 10:23 PM
#83
Just so you know. I've been told "Milkshaking" on rotary engine dip sticks is normal. Read more about this before pulling your engine apart. I panic'd when I saw this on my dipstick a couple years ago. I forget who told me but he said rotary engines can't remove condensation and moisture like a piston engine can and that the milky dipstick is nothing to be concerned about. See what you can find out on your own before pulling the engine for this.
it's not normal, but it doesn't do much harm
there is a kit from Mazda that help fixes the problem.
and if u do remember whoever said " rotary engines can't remove condensation", you should stop talking to him, as he doesn't know what he was talking about.
12-28-2013, 08:16 AM
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I will probably research this Mazda mod to resolve this issue. What I meant to say is that rotary engines don't circulate air through the crankcase like a piston engine does - through a PCV valve. I think Mazda figured this out on later models and started using something like a PCV valve to solve this. I will say that with mine, during summer months when it's more humid outside I have the same issue. It's not an issue through the winter. That's the way it's always been with mine. I currently have my engine apart and was surprised at how much of a pain in the *** this motor is to get out so I wouldn't pull it for this issue. After tear down/inspection, only my front stationary gear bearing had wear. All others and crankshaft cams are fine (106,000 miles). I'll add that I have been using synthetic oil. Can't imagine why using synthetic oil is not good.
12-28-2013, 09:58 AM
#85
I will probably research this Mazda mod to resolve this issue. What I meant to say is that rotary engines don't circulate air through the crankcase like a piston engine does - through a PCV valve. I think Mazda figured this out on later models and started using something like a PCV valve to solve this. I will say that with mine, during summer months when it's more humid outside I have the same issue. It's not an issue through the winter. That's the way it's always been with mine. I currently have my engine apart and was surprised at how much of a pain in the *** this motor is to get out so I wouldn't pull it for this issue. After tear down/inspection, only my front stationary gear bearing had wear. All others and crankshaft cams are fine (106,000 miles). I'll add that I have been using synthetic oil. Can't imagine why using synthetic oil is not good.
crankshaft cams?
and the update is not some PCV valve, it's just suck all the fume to the service port on the engine so it does not gum the SSV up
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