chaudrx7

Long time lurker...first time poster.

Like many before me, I've sheared off two rear wheel studs. This link rear wheel hub.pdf has been extremely helpful, but, alas, I'm stuck.

I can NOT remove the spindle from the CV-axle. I've ruined the spindle nut banging on the axle, as directed, to loosen the axle from the hub. No dice.

Any suggestions?

chaudrx7

I've been banging on this...

Some shots of spindle removal. Please tell me there was an easier way than this!

jfxp

iTrader: (2)

The nut should have been flush with the axle before you hit it, this is so you dont mushroom the end of the axle and can't get the nut on or off. It looks like the rear wheel hub.pdf says to use a punch with the hammer. An air hammer would work too. Do you have air tools available or is this being done with all hand tools? If you have an air gun you dont have to remove the hub assembly but rather hit the studs out with a hammer then zip the new ones on with an air gun using the right size washers and your lug nut. A very big breaker bar could work as well but you would have to re-assemble the brakes/rotor and use the parking brake to hold the hub in place. Looks like you will need a new axle nut. Once you have the new nut you could also try putting the nut on the axle so it's FLUSH with the axle and try hitting it again. GL with it!

EDIT: I just realized you do have to take off the whole hub to get the rear lugs back on That stinks. Try alot of rust penetrant and a BFH (big ******* hammer). And remember to keep the nut flush with the axle. GL!!

shakeyourbrakes

iTrader: (4)

Hey i cant help ya but how long has this taken you so far to get apart? Ive been running with a broken stud on both sides in the rear and eventually will have to do this.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Usually an impact hammer on a block of alum or brass will work. Likely it is rusted on the shaft splines..and the vibrating will loosen it

Did you look to see if there is a hole the stud will fit through..some cars have them to make this easier without removing the hub ( not sure about the 8 though )

Just dont mangle the shaft end...that get expensive quickly

You can also heat up the hub carefully so it expands and makes it easier to get off

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

Unfortunately there is no hole for the stud to fit through..you must take off the whole spindle, it's absolute BS. I broke a stud and tried to do the same as the op but I could not get the damn thing off. I left it as is. In the process I screwed up the lower control arm. Ended up having to get a new one.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

That blows

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

yeah tell me about it....when it happened I expected it to be a 5 minute job to change out studs; as I've done it a bunch of times on other cars....turned into a 2 week ordeal because of tracking down and waiting on parts I broke just because i was trying to fix the stupid stud

chaudrx7

--05rex8
Dude, don't tell me about messing stuff up! I hope I'm haven't busted any of the links.
I'm with you. I thought this would be a straight forward job, even for my limited mechanical dexterity.

Originally, I was just trying to replace the lug nuts with something less corroded. Clearly, in breaking the stud, I was too late on the corrosion front.

The consensus seems to be heat and banging, so I will proceed on those fronts.

I'll be sure to document everything when I'm done for a DYI. So far the best suggestion was to use the big suspension nuts to bang out the links. One was 17mm and the other was 19mm. I think that saved me from messing up my suspension.

chaudrx7

Some pict so far:

Plus this nice exploded diagram::

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Usually the easiest way to remove the ball/tapered link ends is to whack the side of the spindle where the taper is with a ball peen hammer...usually they pop off easily

When my car was new...I removed all of the ball joints and everything that could potentially need to be removed later...and put never seize on them..took most of a weekend...but sure simplifies removal now. Even with that..I still had a few things I didn't do get rusted solid...namely the front camber adjustment bolts..and the tie rod ends Oh well...better luck next time for those

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Unthread the top of the nut just to even with the end of the ball joint stud, put a nut-size socket on an extension bar of appropriate length (1/2" impact gun drive socket/bar preferred), put socket on nut, take a 3 lb hammer and smack the bar end sharply several times to drive the tapered stud out of the spindle


.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

also, a few people managed to grind/shave the wheel stud head down a small amount which allowed it to slide in from behind and be installed without removing the rear hub

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Could you notch the spindle? Had that work before too when it was really close

chaudrx7

UPDATE:

After some serious persuasion (heat and hammer [who knew I had a brass hammer]), the spindle came off. Things turned decidedly worse after that.

We tried to press the hub out, but we did not have the special tools to apply the necessary force. We ended up just pounding it out. Then, we just pounded the new wheel stud because the press would quite fit.

However, the outer part of the bearing housing pressed out WITH the hub. Now I have to buy bearings and figure out how to get the bearings out. Things have decidedly turned for the worse.

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

sorry to hear that man
I know how frustrating this can be...it's so ridiculous what you have to do to replace a stud....

Spoolin8

iTrader: (2)

What i did on the rear when i broke one was simply take a dremel and notched out enough of the spindle/hub to simply pop out the old stud and slide in the new one. It was still a pain though but i didnt have to take anything off.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I already knew this is a tough job, but seeing that split bearing makes me thing twice about installing longer racing studs in the rear to match the ones that were just installed in the front

chaudrx7

Honestly...that may have been our fault for banging on the thing with the wrong tools. A press with the right SSTs (special service tools) helps. I'm sure people with presses in their garage had better fitting devices to hold the oddly shaped spindle than we did.

Of course, what the hell do I know. I broke the studs in the first place with a little tire iron and a 12mm hex-head adapter.

http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC02421.jpg

sblethen

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to bump an old thread but do you happen to know the size of the Lock nut on the rear stub axle? (Number 2 in PDF) I need to go get a socket tonight but I don't have access to a manual and I can't bring the car with me

Stephen