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Re-establishing LTFT after battery pull

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Old 04-15-2008, 08:54 AM
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Re-establishing LTFT after battery pull

Hey,

I've been fighting with my 06 RX8 to get my idle back and wanted a little help. About 7 weeks ago I did the Throttle body bypass (had the throttle body off of the manifold) and after reassembly everything ran fine, my idle was still smooth as silk. Then about 3 weeks ago I pulled the battery to install new radiator hoses, and this I believe is where the trouble began. I can't get back my smooth idle!

I read on here that if your intake is dirty there might be problems so I already tried pulling it back apart and VERY thoroughly cleaning it all out including the sealing surfaces... to no avail. I tried pulling the battery cables again, which after reconnecting them, the idle was smooth...smooth like butter on vida guerra's culo. That is, until I drove over to the grocery store and turned it off. Then it degraded from there into a vibrating, unstable idle rpm machine. It's not like it's stalling or anything, but since I don't have amazing horsepower numbers or wild suspension, I gotta take pride in a super smooth idle instead

So I wanted to ask if anyone has any procedural advice about how to drive the car after the battery cables have been disconnected in order to give the car the best chance at establishing a "good" LTFT.
Old 04-15-2008, 09:20 AM
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Can't really help too much other than to say...make sure that your clamps on the intake are all tightened up. Mine doesn't seem to be very different after pulling the cables. Usual rough idle once in the first few drive cycles, but only for a few seconds.
Did you happen to try and clean the MAF....maybe that's it?
If it doesn't stall.......I think I would wait a couple of drive cycles and see if it straightens back out?????????
I know it was good and then went bad, but the alternatives aren't good because then you might have to go down the plug, wires, coils....etc. path.

Last edited by Mazurfer; 04-15-2008 at 09:31 AM.
Old 04-15-2008, 09:29 AM
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You did not need to remove the TB to do the bypass.

Make sure there are no leaks.

Look under the TB plastic housing. There is a hose that needs to be attached to the VAFD if you have one or it needs to be capped off. This is for an MT.

When you say idle ... do you mean the shaking shifteror the actually RPM of the car?

Shifters will always shake.


The ilde will become smooth after a few drive cycles when you disconect the battery.

Sometimes its a week for me, but I don't drive much.

Read the reset ECU stickie and related posts. You will understand better. Then go to a club meet and learn more.
Old 04-15-2008, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Razz1
You did not need to remove the TB to do the bypass.

Look under the TB plastic housing. There is a hose that needs to be attached to the VAFD if you have one or it needs to be capped off. This is for an MT.

When you say idle ... do you mean the shaking shifteror the actually RPM of the car?

Read the reset ECU stickie and related posts. You will understand better. Then go to a club meet and learn more.
Well, getting that bottom coolant hose off without removing the TB...I think that's a matter of opinion. Mine wasn't budging with the angle I was having to pull on it while still on the manifold.

Anyways, I feel I should specifiy I'm not an idiot that forgets to put in air screens or tighten down a clamp. Everything is clean and attached correctly and the seals are tight and seated properly between intake box/intake hose/throttle body.

Razz1, thanks for sending me in the right direction though I didn't learn much beyond a procedure I didn't know :P , here's what I had in mind for an answer to my question. Though this particular answer is to validate that a CEL is no longer appearing, not re-establish fuel trims

Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Like I said, I don't know if this procedure helps or not but I did it anyway. After two days with no cat my CEL just shut off. The latest issue of "Import Tuner" did some parts swaps and dyno pulls and I can say that my engine has the exact same peaks and valleys in the power curve that they measured. Must be that "N" flash. I'm beginning to hate it.

Assuming there are no idle speed or initial timing issues;

1) Start the engine and warm it up completely. This means allowing one full cooling fan cycle. During warm up, make sure all accessories are turned off.

2) Idle the engine for more than 30s after the cooling fan has stopped, then turn the engine off.

3) Re-start the engine and drive the car in the following fashion:
A) Idle the engine in neutral for more than 7m35s.
B) Drive in first or second gears, between 25-46 mph, for more than 30s.
C) Drive in second or third gears, between 38-62 mph, for more than 20s.
D) Drive in fourth or fifth gears, between 32-62 mph, for more than 2m.

It is said in the Mazda repair manual that this procedure allows the PCM to measure all that it needs to ensure no further CEL's unless there is an outstanding issue.

CRH

Last edited by BMonkey; 04-15-2008 at 06:16 PM.
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