Raspy Sound and Coils
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From: Palmdale, CA
My problem isn't exactly the same though... I can't say the car is running rough, idles just fine (850 rpm, very slight vibration) but when i go WOT in 3rd and 4th gear, I get these horrible rattles (like a hard disk drive, or a coffee machine) past 7000 rpm, and a blinking CEL when i keep it up for too long.
Stupid thing is.... it doesn't always happen.
I had the problem before, and it turned out one of the plugs was f*cked, so replaced all 4 of them. Problem went away after that, but after 5000 miles or so, it started again. So my guess is one of the coils is bad....
Car has 31000 miles now btw, and it's a 2005 6mt shinka.
Stupid thing is.... it doesn't always happen.
I had the problem before, and it turned out one of the plugs was f*cked, so replaced all 4 of them. Problem went away after that, but after 5000 miles or so, it started again. So my guess is one of the coils is bad....
Car has 31000 miles now btw, and it's a 2005 6mt shinka.
Edit: Your blinking CEL is indicative of misfire, so you could be having coil issues.
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From: Palmdale, CA
Well the MMO mix definitely helped my raspy noise, so I guess my engine may have compression issues. Now the questions is, how do I convince my dealer that I need a new engine?
Last time I asked for a compression test they told me my starter can't crank fast enough to do the test and I'd need to pay $500 to get a new one. I'd hate to spend a ton of money for diagnostics only for them to tell me that my compression isn't low enough for a new engine...
Last time I asked for a compression test they told me my starter can't crank fast enough to do the test and I'd need to pay $500 to get a new one. I'd hate to spend a ton of money for diagnostics only for them to tell me that my compression isn't low enough for a new engine...
Keep my fingers crossed though.
Well the MMO mix definitely helped my raspy noise, so I guess my engine may have compression issues. Now the questions is, how do I convince my dealer that I need a new engine?
Last time I asked for a compression test they told me my starter can't crank fast enough to do the test and I'd need to pay $500 to get a new one. I'd hate to spend a ton of money for diagnostics only for them to tell me that my compression isn't low enough for a new engine...
Last time I asked for a compression test they told me my starter can't crank fast enough to do the test and I'd need to pay $500 to get a new one. I'd hate to spend a ton of money for diagnostics only for them to tell me that my compression isn't low enough for a new engine...
make sure you get a couple of non mmo tanks in before you do a compression test..
beers
this kinda reminds me of my issue i have.. but mine was even when the car was brand new with 50 miles on it. i now have 30,000miles its a 2007 6speed. i hear my noise as soon as i hear 6,000rpms. i did throttle bypass, coils, wires and plugs did not change on thing.. could this be fuel pump? if i rev the car its not there. only under load. it bothers me but i have no other8's around to see if its common noise.
if i do a compression test, what is a good compression on a renisis motor?
if i do a compression test, what is a good compression on a renisis motor?
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From: Palmdale, CA
Unfortunately it wasn't replaced, and since I have a very early '05 it has the old starter. And because I'm at 80k miles it won't be covered under warranty. Any idea how difficult it would be to replace the damn thing myself?
sounds like you dealer is full of fail.. i would take the time to call mazda na on the 800 # and let that put some heat under the service managers ***..
beers
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From: Palmdale, CA
I might do that, but I'll probably cut them some slack because that dealership has only been open for about a month. I think I'll just go to another dealer to get the test done, which is probably a better idea anyway since I'd much rather have an experienced dealer put a new engine in my car.
I may still replace the starter myself since that old 04 one is pretty weak compared to the new one. A new one is pretty expensive, but do you think a salvage starter from eBay would be ok (as long as I make sure it's the new version)?
I may still replace the starter myself since that old 04 one is pretty weak compared to the new one. A new one is pretty expensive, but do you think a salvage starter from eBay would be ok (as long as I make sure it's the new version)?
I might do that, but I'll probably cut them some slack because that dealership has only been open for about a month. I think I'll just go to another dealer to get the test done, which is probably a better idea anyway since I'd much rather have an experienced dealer put a new engine in my car.
I may still replace the starter myself since that old 04 one is pretty weak compared to the new one. A new one is pretty expensive, but do you think a salvage starter from eBay would be ok (as long as I make sure it's the new version)?
I may still replace the starter myself since that old 04 one is pretty weak compared to the new one. A new one is pretty expensive, but do you think a salvage starter from eBay would be ok (as long as I make sure it's the new version)?
go figure.. if you want a the newer one let me know. i will point you in the right direction..
beers
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From: Palmdale, CA
I've never flooded or failed to start either, but it does kind of "choke up" pretty often while it's cranking. I dunno, if you think that dealer is really full of it and should be able to do the test without the new one I'll probably just take the car to the other dealer and have them give it a shot.
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From: Palmdale, CA
Alrighty, so I got Galpin Mazda in Van Nuys to successfully perform a compression test. My starter wouldn't crank at the necessary 250rpm, but their computer apparently can adjust them to produce the 250rpm equivalent. Well it turns out that my compression is fine. Here are the numbers:
Rotor 1:
212rpm / 250rpm
6.3 / 7.2
6.1 / 7.0
6.4 / 7.3
Rotor 2:
213rpm / 250rpm
6.4 / 7.3
6.6 / 7.47
6.6 / 7.47
I still haven't replaced the fuel pump, so I'll probably do that next, followed by the spark plugs. HOPEFULLY one of those will sove this annoying problem.
Rotor 1:
212rpm / 250rpm
6.3 / 7.2
6.1 / 7.0
6.4 / 7.3
Rotor 2:
213rpm / 250rpm
6.4 / 7.3
6.6 / 7.47
6.6 / 7.47
I still haven't replaced the fuel pump, so I'll probably do that next, followed by the spark plugs. HOPEFULLY one of those will sove this annoying problem.
Dodging those Corollas
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From: Stouffville, Ontario, Canada
yeah, he never re-posted with an update.. wanted to know if what he did fixed his problem, as I am having similar problems in another thread I posted. Really trying to get some answers.
A new fuel pump in Canada costs $298 tax included... I really don't want to blindly throw money into a problem without understanding.
A new fuel pump in Canada costs $298 tax included... I really don't want to blindly throw money into a problem without understanding.
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this kinda reminds me of my issue i have.. but mine was even when the car was brand new with 50 miles on it. i now have 30,000miles its a 2007 6speed. i hear my noise as soon as i hear 6,000rpms. i did throttle bypass, coils, wires and plugs did not change on thing.. could this be fuel pump? if i rev the car its not there. only under load. it bothers me but i have no other8's around to see if its common noise.
if i do a compression test, what is a good compression on a renisis motor?
if i do a compression test, what is a good compression on a renisis motor?
I have a 6000 rpm noise as well, since day 1 of driving. 65000 miles later, still there, no change, it is normal.
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