Thread bump! I'm fighting the same thing. My alignment right now is just fine, but want to dial in more negative camber for autox. So, since i'm not in any hurry, i'll just keep blasting with liquid wrench and driving it everyday. Each evening i'll blast the area and tap with a hammer. I figure eventually they'll free up. I'll let you know how it goes...

 

Bump. Still stuck, but haven't kept up with it. Just in case I get tired of messing with them, what are the part #'s for the camber bolts and the bushings?

I have a feeling this will end with me spending a day with a reciprocating saw and lots of profanity.

 

I don't know, but if you call your dealer, they will know... also onlinemazdaparts.com and finishlineperformance.com are good sources for Mazda parts and they are quick to get back to you.. I think they are both vendors here...

 

I had the same issue
I actually found out because my LCA was bent and needed to be replaced. Was thinking it'd be an easy swap until I hit the seized camber bolt...had an impact on that thing for 30 minutes with nothing budging except the rubber bushing.

Ended up ordering a new Forward camber bolt (F151-28-66Z) from the dealer and grabbing a metal blade for my reciprocating saw. As you can see I had to go to town on it but got it out pretty quick.

Needless to say you'll need to replace the LCA (or at least the bushing). To those who haven't had this happen yet put some grease on that sucker ASAP!!!

Picture of cut out bolt

 

My caster adjustment cam seized on the passenger side
It limited what sort of numbers I could get
I've been hitting it with liquid wrench in hopes it will free up

 

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...6&d=1222032105

can someone provide the part number for the bushings 34-471B and 34-470 from illustration below? thanks.

 

Dannobre should have the memorized by now

 

Mine seized as well this spring when I went to get it aligned. Now my front are stuck at -2.2 L and -2.4 R.

The rears are -1.8

 

Bleh.

This problem sucks.

Two days of penetrating oil + soak for hours + impact wrench and my rear passenger camber adjustment bolt won't move more than a few mm and then goes back to where it was.

That bolt is going to move eventually...

 

Yup, just had htis problem this past weekend, but i lucked out. 2 things are going to happen:

1. you are going to be successful (i lucked out) and break the bolt free

2. you are going to tear the bushing and its just gunna sit there and rotate bolt and bushing.

Here are some fun tricks to try:

1. Get some acetone and ATF ... in my last job I cam across a ton of information about this, and there are studies out there. Best penetrant, period. Dont think twice. Just research online because i dont remember the mix ratio.

2. If you cant do that, get your hands on Kano Kroil. Its industrial grade penetrant... MUCH more effective than PB blaster. Its far thinner, and eats rust like its job

3. If you cant find that soak that bad larry with PB, and i mean SOAK. Like hose that thing down, wrap a pb blaster soaked rag around it.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the advice. I've been using CRC Freeze Off and it has worked on everything from O2 sensors, exhaust bolts, and anything else I've soaked in it. I'm gonna pick up some ATF tomorrow.

 

Any one have any tips on cutting the bolts out? The cam bolts are just badly stuck in mine, impacting and breaker bars aren't doing anything and I've soaked it good with penetrant. I'd rather just cut the bolts out but It doesnt look like theres enough space to fit my angle grinder to get the rearward bushing/bolt.
I've already ordered the new cam bolts/washers from the dealer and going to pick them up in a few days and I already have a new lower control arm so I'm not worried about damaging the bolts or bushings. Just worried about cutting the subframe since its a tight fit in there.

 

I used a reciprocating saw......wasn't a fun job

If you don't care about the control arm it makes it easier

 

Hate using a reciprocating saw but I'll give it a go if I need to.

 

Hated every second of it but finally got it out. At first I grabbed the reciprocating saw only to realize my dad only had wood cutting blades for it, figures. Angle grinder wouldn't fit. But torching did.

Basically torched the bolts until the were cherry red and then went to town on them with a BFH. Those suckers were in there bad. Impacting and breaker bars did next to nothing, impacting got out the nut side but the bolt itself wasn't budging for anything and I drenched them in penetrant and when I say drenched, those motherf&%$ers were practically swimming in the crap for two days and it didn't do jack. The torch is your friend on this job guys.

 

A small angle grinder with a cutting wheel and the safety-guard removed will make quick work of it without without the excessive heat of a torch, less likely to burn your car to the ground too though you do have to be mindful of where the spark stream is going ...

 

I'm not a big fan of torches under rotary engines either They are usually well rust protected by a layer of oil

 

Yeah I had the small map pro torch, made sure not to use a shop tank. I pretty much focused it directly on the head of the bolt until it was near molten, I made sure to keep the heat away from anything else. The only things close by were the motor mount, which I made sure to keep heat off of because I have poly mounts and to the right was the exhaust manifold. Which drives a good deal of heat itself so wasn't too worried about torching that but it wasn't even close enough to get any heat transfer from the small flame. Everything in the surrounding area was cool enough to bare hand touch beside the bolt itself and the small surface area of cross member the bolt goes thru. Guess it would be good to note you probably don't wanna use a big shop torch in that proximity to the engine but the small tank torches didnt drive enough heat to damage anything surrounding. It took damn near 10min of torching itself to get the bolt hot enough anyway.

 

Had this problem recently and after several failed attempts soaking in PB blaster, I finally removed my seized front camber bolt with more soaking, putting the nut over the end of it with the offset washer/plate removed, and whacking as hard as I could with a 2.5lb mallet whilst putting some torque on it with a breaker bar.

I replaced that one with a new one and then proceeded to remove and apply anti-seize to the remaining 7 cam bolts (front and rear). None of the others were seized as bad, but several were quite sticky, and I'm pretty sure contributed to recent alignment issues.

Now working on replacing the rear bushings...