I'm no fabricator but it seems like it would be simple to do this with SS brake line or something. Although I can see how some flexibility in the lines is needed for installation, etc.

some people use telfon tube, cuz its somewhat cheaper, just make sure its engine oil compatible + it can withstand 500f+ of heat.

My feeling is that deterioration of the lines has more to do with how the car is stored than how many miles it has done .... A garaged car in a mild climate and the lines will last the life of the car . Stored outside in a severe climate - they should be re[placed every x yrs .

As OD and others have stated the S1 has a Check Valve (I guess one way) on each line , the S2's don't (theres is in the Nozzle from memory).

Having sold and seen many (not S1, I own a set S2's), it is how they become brittle with age, obviously from heat, once old and hard it needs little movement to crack, split and break the tubing. Obviously if car is stored and or not used they are not going to become as brittle.;)

Mine were not cracked or brittle.

Aren't you lucky.

That's because you drive like a grandma :lol:

Pfffft you wish, Im gonna race you when I move there grandma!!!

Side note I did have 3 bad check valves and 4 clogged injectors, at the end of my rebuild only one was salvageable.

Also oil injectors get clogged often and easily. When you rebuild an engine its best to clean them out with some parts cleaner. After cleaning them inspect each one and toss the ones that fail the vacuum test. Thats per RR.

Oh shit, I better get my bottle filled then :) I also read that the oil injector failures are fairly common. It kind of sucks because it would pretty hard to know that they are not working properly.

yep I would point my finger at them as the main cause for engine failure. But then again what do I know, I just drive it and when it stops working I fix it.

Subbed

Yeah I definitley would not go without premix ever. And for you guys under warranty, getting remans, I would definitley pay to have the oil injectors and lines replaced during the install or at least tested. Having these installed with the engine out would have saved me a lot of time and agony. Especially considering I had a seized bolt in the UIM thanks to them not using anti seize when reinstalling it.

Ouch! I didn't use anti seize either though. I figured at 25 ftlbs with no contact to fluids I'd be ok.

I'm going to be installing my OMP over the weekend I think should be exciting.

Yeah the steel bolts in the aluminum LIM without anti seize is a bad idea. I was using a 1/4" rachet to remove them and one just sheered off. PIA.

You are installing a SOHN? or new OMP?

I was thinking of doing a DIY on vacuum testing the oil injectors but then I thought most people would probably not tackle that job so I decided not to bother. I was warned to not break the little vacuum block that feed the oil injectors and even though I was careful I still managed to break that. It too was very brittle. Damn Texas heat :lol:

Mine fell apart after each vacuum line I removed!!! Pain in my arse!

I'm installing the sohn. well actually I'm test fitting it then sending specs over to a blow mold guy to make me a container that will fit in the airpump housing.

now u guys just made me wanna get to my OMP lines and injectors asap ...

If you have the energy to do that DIY, it would be much appreciated. Even if most of us would not do it ourselves, a lot of us would benefit from the knowledge. I've learned a lot about our cars by reading DIYs that I doubt I'll ever do myself. As well as the ones that I've done or am planning to do when the time comes.

Ken

I have some spare SS lines. From when I made my clutch line. I will need to get in there and see exactly what size they are though and make sure they will work. Once it warms up I will get on it and if you decide to do a DIY for the testing of the injectors, I will add on the DIY for making your own lines.

The only issue I can see is that you can't see through the SS lines so you wont be able to monitor inside them. Which would mean you would need to make certain say every time you change your oil, to check the lines for blockage.

Some people rebuild with this: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVS...00000168820027

I vote sticky for this thread

You need to get in there and look with the UIM off. I don't think you quite understand how all this is packaged when everything is buttoned up. I am talking hard line here, not SS flex lines like you would use for brake lines or a clutch line. The diameter of these lines would have to be very, very small. There would also be no way to check these lines on any regular basis. Plus you would have to figure a way to incorporate the factory banjo fittings that go around the oil injector and on the OMP.

Redoing these lines would take some real engineering. The lines would probably need to be bent and positioned the exact way the stock lines are. The factory setup is actually very good, but to last past 100k the material just doesn't hold up (in Texas anyway).

I'm definitely going to premix when I get my 8. There are too many things that seem like they easily fail in the oil injection system to take the chance.

Seems kind of like a bad design? Or am I just being paranoid?

just put some heat shield stuff between them and the engine---they can get real hot next to the alternator also.
The oil nozzles have a check valve in them---that is why I was wondering why the heck were there check valves in the banjo fitting to?
I really dont understand how it works. The omp does not put that much pressure on the oil it pumps.
Also to open the banjo fitting check valve I had to push back toward the omp. To tell the truth I didnt check it pushing toward the oil nozzle.
Again why is there a vacuum line to the nozzle? Maybe it is to ensure quick closing of the oil nozzle? But should the oil nozzle ever be complety closed?
What happens if you remove the vacuum there?
What would happen if you removed the banjo fitting check valve?

This is getting really interesting.
It may be better to totally premix?

maybe this is why the S2 don't have that stupid valve, cuz its totally useless.

I think 100k is pretty good for these lines. I like the idea of the heat shield both for the LIM and the lines. I might fab something up with some cardboard to see sizing bad purchase some of that fancy heat resistant paneling.