Car needs more track time LOL no crap on plugs then :)
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Originally Posted by dannobre
(Post 3852691)
Car needs more track time LOL no crap on plugs then :)
I like your barcode... LOL. |
Originally Posted by shadycrew31
(Post 3852621)
Im still not sold... I think that using dirty motor oil that is not meant to be burnt is the leading culprit to carbon build up and engine failure.
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Originally Posted by DocBeech
(Post 3852597)
The ethanol in the fuel is not only corrosive but its very drying on components as well. Its hard on thinner metals, and plastics as well.
The Renesis design (of unburned fuel "recycle" and hot internal engine temps could contribute to premature wear? Although this is accurate not for side seals ... still a thought tho |
Originally Posted by stinksause
(Post 3852790)
I think you may be onto something here ... What's US ethanol content in our gasoline vs. Other countries where there are less failures?
The Renesis design (of unburned fuel "recycle" and hot internal engine temps could contribute to premature wear? Although this is accurate not for side seals ... still a thought tho |
most carbon build up is from the gas you burn. Plus driving habits.
Lets not get into the ethenol thing. 9K you had that much oil on the sparkplug threads? My 10K mile engine that is down but not apart--still has shiny parts on the rotor faces that can be seen through the sparkplug holes. You know guys--other than what we are doing already--- i dont think there is a whole lot we can do about the life expectacy of the S1 engine? OD |
Yeah that much oil was on the threads, not sure if it was 2 stroke or engine oil though. When I changed these plugs I am pretty sure my OMP system was functioning normally as far as I can remember but I was premixing heavily.
Dan, I actually changed these right before a 100 miles of hard driving on a canyon run last May :) I guess I should have done the run and then pulled them :) |
So is there any way we can figure out which fuel has the least junk? I'm sure they are all pretty close...
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There are stickers on the pumps that indicate the maximum ethanol content.
Go to a top-tier station that pushes 10% or less ethanol and that is about the best you can do. |
I mix E85 and premium, so this threads fails as much as the canyon run BS talk once again ....
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 3853161)
I mix E85 and premium, so this threads fails as much as the canyon run BS talk once again ....
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I can get ethanol free gas on base...
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dont think Team can fairly compare an engine that only sees autocrossing(?), is running evans coolant, E85/premium gas ( probably race gas?), race car maintainence, custom tune, to the rest of us slobs trying to get by.
Oh --and I am curious--how can a thread that is started for discussion purposes "fail". After all a therory is only an idea--it is not fact. Cant you discuss an idea without "failing"? OD |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 3853161)
I mix E85 and premium, so this threads fails as much as the canyon run BS talk once again ....
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Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 3853340)
dont think Team can fairly compare an engine that only sees autocrossing(?), is running evans coolant, E85/premium gas ( probably race gas?), race car maintainence, custom tune, to the rest of us slobs trying to get by.
Oh --and I am curious--how can a thread that is started for discussion purposes "fail". After all a theory is only an idea--it is not fact. Cant you discuss an idea without "failing"? OD I'm just gonna do whatever I think will help my engine and if I blow it well then I ll just have to rebuild it again. |
It certainly is interesting input. I would love to hear his rationale.
Ethanol has a lower stoichiometric ratio than gasoline and E85 - being a blend of gasoline and ethanol - will produce tailpipe AFRs that are 3 to 5 points leaner than commanded at an equivalent injected volume. In an NA application (on a properly calibrated PCM), this would be a net power looser and potentially damage the motor. I suppose if the car is not properly tuned, it could be used as a band-aid to lean-up the mixture. In an FI application it would just be pure boom. |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 3852097)
Premix lubrication does not hang arround very long. You have to remember that the premix that is injected at the start of the combustion cycle is subjected directly to the combustion process. So a lot gets burned up pretty fast. I understand that the oil nozzles are right before the combustion phase too, but that oil is not atomized, it only wheeps down so it is not really in the "air" so to speak. That makes it last a lot longer and that is why, i am thinking, it does a better job of properly lubricating/cooling the corner/side seals. OD I take one more bet on clean 4 stroke full syn (0w)by MOP's nozzles. (and maybe a little premix for the apexes, but actually not for my engine.) |
Two things:
1. Are those the best pics of freakin spark plugs or what!! 2. Denny, are you suggesting that the S1 oil injector location on the top of the motor is different or aimed different than the S2's? JUST the original S1 to S2, NOT the S2 Apex seal squirters. Hope I understood you correctly. Apologies if I did not. If you don't know my brother could someone chime in that knows this for sure? NO guessing or assuming. Fact, fact, fact. I was told the location is the exact same for a reputable source. Perhaps he was wrong????.... |
Originally Posted by EricMeyer
(Post 3854317)
Two things:
1. Are those the best pics of freakin spark plugs or what!! :lol: I wanted detailed pics. |
Originally Posted by EricMeyer
(Post 3854317)
2. Denny, are you suggesting that the S1 oil injector location on the top of the motor is different or aimed different than the S2's? JUST the original S1 to S2, NOT the S2 Apex seal squirters. Hope I understood you correctly. Apologies if I did not.
If you don't know my brother could someone chime in that knows this for sure? NO guessing or assuming. Fact, fact, fact. I was told the location is the exact same for a reputable source. Perhaps he was wrong????.... They just added a third slightly further along the housing from the original two. |
2 Attachment(s)
The Nozzles themselves are very different between the series, Denny I think was referring to how the Oil comes out of the side of the Nozzle in Series 2's, not directly out of the middle end like S1's.
S2's don't have vacuum connections on top of Nozzles either, internally they have a fine gauze filter, and a one way check valve. Pic of S2 Nozzle N3R1-14-631 https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1295519704 https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1295519704 |
Thanks for coming in Ash. that is exactly what I was referring too. I remembered those pics you posted --somewhere. It ie really interesting that the actual nozzle oil exit was redisigned.
Obviously it is to get the oil to the corner side seal in a better way. IDK exactly how it works, but I am sure Mazda did it for a specific reason. We have to remember also that the S2 oil nozzle works under pressure now--it is not only a fixed volumne delivery anymore. Eric--S2 set up in the near future? The S2 engine is a good improvement in design--no doubt. OD |
The sideways discharge of the nozzle is just an anti-clogging measure.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 3854669)
The sideways discharge of the nozzle is just an anti-clogging measure.
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I dont think those nozzles have an opening on the very end--only on the side. Like Ash says the oil comes out the side, not the middle.
OD |
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