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Did you check everything else i mentioned? The thingsi had mentioned like the injector seats little orings, the vacuum line that goes for the jet air line?
Did you check everything else i mentioned? The thingsi had mentioned like the injector seats little orings, the vacuum line that goes for the jet air line?
Quick question - the vacuum block for the omp vacuum lines, is it supposed to hold any vacuum if i applied a hand pump to it? While i had access to it, i disconnected the line (circled in yellow) and put my hand vacuum pump to it and tried to draw a vacuum but it wouldn't hold any vacuum at all. Would this be suspect in my chase for the vacuum leak?
Let me preface this by saying i like to work on cars so chasing down this vacuum leak was "fun", like solving a difficult Lego so Im open to any further ideas... BUT it was still pretty frustrating. With the help of Ricky SE3P we brainstormed a few ideas and below is a list of the things ive done.
I've gone ahead and replaced the fuel injector seals and gaskets on the primary and secondary. Had them flow tested and cleaned.
Ive replaced the OMP vacuum lines and OMP vacuum block with a new one from Mazda.
Ive double checked all the vacuum lines on the solenoids and all the ones leading to the SSV, VDI, and Air pump. All good. Check valves are all facing the correct orientation.
Brake vacuum check valve is good. All vacuum lines are good.
The thing that I think did the trick was deciding to clamp down those rubber nipples on the intake accordion...i noticed they were a little loose in their fitting and so i took some hose clamps and clamped them in.
Now my readings are as follows.
Idle LTFT hovers around 9. STFT hovers around -1 to -3 and up to 1 - 2 at times. MAF g/s reading is still a bit low but better than before sitting at about 5.15 g/s.
This is much better than my previous readings of 4.3g/s at the maf and a 23% LTFT at idle.
I think theres still more that can be done but for now....im calling it a small victory and if i decide to chase it further, ill let you guys know.
Last edited by mangomikey; Feb 4, 2026 at 12:07 PM.
Curious. Did the MAF reading improve after any single one of those changes? Or all of them at once?
Snuggjng down the vacuum barbs in the intake is never a bad idea, but they shouldn't be loose in the first place. Like the hoses don't really stretch to be more loose around the barb unless they're cracked. What if you replaced the vacuum lines? And maybe the accordeon itself? It could have a hairline crack in the folds that would be hard to see/closed when not running but open under vacuum.
I did all the repairs at once and checked my readings so I'm unable to tell you which one improved the readings.
Which vacuum lines are you referring to?
As for the accordion, I pressure tested it with some smoke and didnt see anything. But i still am considering getting an aftermarket solution for the accordion...something like this?
I sent that your way as I strongly recommend it to replace the OEM piece.
Quality silicone hoses and hose clamps to replace any OEM hoses and secure them also wouldnt hurt/
Finally, using a proper caliper or other measuring tool, measure both the outer diameter and inner diameter of the MAF housing your intake uses in millimeters.
I sent that your way as I strongly recommend it to replace the OEM piece.
Quality silicone hoses and hose clamps to replace any OEM hoses and secure them also wouldnt hurt/
Finally, using a proper caliper or other measuring tool, measure both the outer diameter and inner diameter of the MAF housing your intake uses in millimeters.
Yep, i think ill make the purchase for that aftermarket unit and see if that effects anything.
Ill grab my digital caliper and measure Racing Beats maf tube.
