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Old 03-30-2012, 07:22 AM
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Opinions please...

As I have about three weeks left on my engine warranty, I've been contemplating getting a compression test just for the hell of it. But I don't relish the thought of throwing $150 at the dealership if it's not really necessary. So, since hard starting seems to be the first sign of loss of compression, I've been clocking the time it takes to start each time I fire up the car. Here are the results. Based on these results, do you see any reason to suspect seal failure?

hot: 1.58 seconds
cold: 1.69
hot 1.82
cold 2.1
hot 0.9
hot 1.6
cold 1.6
hot 1.23
cold 1.74
hot 1.35
cold 1.53
hot 1.73
cold 1.92
hot 1.31

This is on an '04 with 62K miles with the original starter, 2 year old coils, and one year old plugs. I have no idea of the typical time other people's 8s take to start, but these times seem fine compared to what I've seen on youtube and such.

I tell myself that I should just have it looked at, but I have a feeling is would pass, if just at the lower limit and I'd be out the cash. I've had no other issues, no loss of power, no stalling, no lumpy idles, same sucky MPG it's always had (18-20). What would you do?
Old 03-30-2012, 07:55 AM
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no one can tell you "how much life/how healthly" your engine is by cranking times.

best for u to get a compression test.
Old 03-30-2012, 10:04 AM
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$150 > +$4000 ??????
Take the test.
Old 03-30-2012, 11:47 AM
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If you pass the test, you pay...If you fail the test, you don't have to pay for it, and you get a new engine...Sounds like a fair trade-off to me.

Luckily for me, the first dealership I had a compression test performed at didn't charge me a cent for it even though my numbers were fine...They just threw it under my warranty for the hell of it.

Also, your cranking times won't say much...Over time, my original starter took up to 5 seconds to start my car before I replaced it with an upgraded starter.
Old 03-30-2012, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
no one can tell you "how much life/how healthly" your engine is by cranking times.
^+1
Imho, that info is totally useless...
Don't go to dealer for the test, find a local rotary shop have them do it for you.
Simply it's cheaper, and if you fail the test, bring to the dear for the warranty.
Yes, they'll have to do the test again, but you know it's gonna fail anyway.
Old 03-30-2012, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ShinkaEvo
^+1
Imho, that info is totally useless...
Don't go to dealer for the test, find a local rotary shop have them do it for you.
Simply it's cheaper, and if you fail the test, bring to the dear for the warranty.
Yes, they'll have to do the test again, but you know it's gonna fail anyway.
not always.

cuz compression test heavily depends on the "correct" testing condition.

if the tech test the car after it's been sitting for 2 hours right away(typical stealership wait time), then the compression numbers will ALWAYS be higher.

so its best for OP to find a good dealership who knows wtf they're doing, then start from there.

Originally Posted by lta_ds_fs7
If you pass the test, you pay...If you fail the test, you don't have to pay for it, and you get a new engine...Sounds like a fair trade-off to me.

Luckily for me, the first dealership I had a compression test performed at didn't charge me a cent for it even though my numbers were fine...They just threw it under my warranty for the hell of it.

Also, your cranking times won't say much...Over time, my original starter took up to 5 seconds to start my car before I replaced it with an upgraded starter.
my "updated starter from 50K ago" cranks like that too. bought a Reman, 1/2 second startup.
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