Opinions on Engine Prelubricators
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From: Around
Opinions on Engine Prelubricators
I've been thinking about getting a prelubrication system for my car and came across these two systems:
http://www.autoenginelube.com/pages/903473/index.htm
http://www.wetstart.com/default.htm
I prefer the wetstart "cardiolube" system but since it runs off the battery it has a safety measure by shutting itself off after 16 hours or 9.5 volts on the battery are reached. After that the user has to manually use the remote control to "prime" the engine and I know I'd just forget about it.
The autoenginelube is just a pressurizer that's activated when the ignition is turned to the ON position so no matter how long the car has been sitting it will pressurize the oil system when activated.
I would like to install both systems so I get protection regardless of the circumstances.
What do you think?
http://www.autoenginelube.com/pages/903473/index.htm
http://www.wetstart.com/default.htm
I prefer the wetstart "cardiolube" system but since it runs off the battery it has a safety measure by shutting itself off after 16 hours or 9.5 volts on the battery are reached. After that the user has to manually use the remote control to "prime" the engine and I know I'd just forget about it.
The autoenginelube is just a pressurizer that's activated when the ignition is turned to the ON position so no matter how long the car has been sitting it will pressurize the oil system when activated.
I would like to install both systems so I get protection regardless of the circumstances.
What do you think?
RX-7 Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 347
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From: Pensacola, FL
Total overkill. Rotaries are much kinder to oil than piston engines as far as bearing lubrication is concerned. Not to mention the rotors are filled with oil that immediately starts sloshing around on startup.
Of the 15-20 RX-7 engines I've rebuilt, NONE were from oil starvation or had any lubrication related troubles. That's just really not an issue on a rotary. We're talking some VERY high mileage engines in many cases, too.
I would, however, HIGHLY recommend having the coolant flushed and filled once a year. Always use the proper amount of antifreeze and water, and you'll be fine. Leave coolant in too long and it will turn acidic and start attacking the cooling passages. Trust me, I've torn down a few "water pumpers" with blown water seals that had VERY neglected cooling systems, and the engine was literally junk - I threw the whole thing out. Water rusted all the seals into the rotor, the housings were warped from overheating...
Keep up on the oil changes, change the coolant reguarly, and PLEASE redline it on a frequent basis, and you'll have an engine with MANY miles of smiles ahead of it.
Dale
Of the 15-20 RX-7 engines I've rebuilt, NONE were from oil starvation or had any lubrication related troubles. That's just really not an issue on a rotary. We're talking some VERY high mileage engines in many cases, too.
I would, however, HIGHLY recommend having the coolant flushed and filled once a year. Always use the proper amount of antifreeze and water, and you'll be fine. Leave coolant in too long and it will turn acidic and start attacking the cooling passages. Trust me, I've torn down a few "water pumpers" with blown water seals that had VERY neglected cooling systems, and the engine was literally junk - I threw the whole thing out. Water rusted all the seals into the rotor, the housings were warped from overheating...
Keep up on the oil changes, change the coolant reguarly, and PLEASE redline it on a frequent basis, and you'll have an engine with MANY miles of smiles ahead of it.
Dale
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Originally posted by dcfc3s
I would, however, HIGHLY recommend having the coolant flushed and filled once a year. Always use the proper amount of antifreeze and water, and you'll be fine. Leave coolant in too long and it will turn acidic and start attacking the cooling passages.
I would, however, HIGHLY recommend having the coolant flushed and filled once a year. Always use the proper amount of antifreeze and water, and you'll be fine. Leave coolant in too long and it will turn acidic and start attacking the cooling passages.
How about using the orange 5yr / 100k miles "extended use" coolant?
Whaaaa?
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 623
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From: San Diego, CA
If that's the dex-cool stuff as used in GM motors, I'd be pretty hesitant. There's been some rather bad press about it recently about it sludging up motors that it was in. There's probably a lot more to the story than that, but still I would do some homework prior to selecting dex cool.
I've also heard of a coolant called "Evans NPG+" which contains no water, you run it 100%. It's supposed to have superior cooling qualities and a very high boiling point, but there are some caveats about getting all water out of your system before using it to avoid contamination and quite a debate about whether or not it's really any better than water plus a bit of prestone type antifreeze. See: http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls2.htm
Personally I'd stick with water + the green stuff and do a yearly flush of the system.
Simon.
I've also heard of a coolant called "Evans NPG+" which contains no water, you run it 100%. It's supposed to have superior cooling qualities and a very high boiling point, but there are some caveats about getting all water out of your system before using it to avoid contamination and quite a debate about whether or not it's really any better than water plus a bit of prestone type antifreeze. See: http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls2.htm
Personally I'd stick with water + the green stuff and do a yearly flush of the system.
Simon.
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